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Old 12-05-2017, 08:10 PM   #151
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Do we have pictures or videos yet?
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Old 12-06-2017, 12:05 AM   #152
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What would you like to see pics / vids of? I can probably fulfill your requests tomorrow afternoon.
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Old 12-06-2017, 03:00 PM   #153
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Iím assuming a video of a pull but what photos?
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Old 12-09-2017, 04:19 AM   #154
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Update: used a shrader valve and a pvc end cap to create a diy boost leak tester. Used a bike pump and found a signifivant leak in the tps side of the throttle body. Are there any bolts I could tighten here? Gaskets I could replace? O rings/seals I could replace?
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Old 12-09-2017, 11:48 AM   #155
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Is it the throttle shaft bushing that is leaking? maybe there's a seal hiding in there behind the tps.
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Old 12-09-2017, 05:45 PM   #156
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There's an oring sealing the TPS to the throttle body, don't recall if that side also has a shaft seal. The other side has a seal. Pro tip, the part number for those seals is the same as the part number for valve hushers, per VIDA. The aftermarket hushers need just a tiny trim, otherwise they are too thick.
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Old 12-10-2017, 01:43 AM   #157
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Ok managed to seal the throttle body tps side using a generic o ring. Now I found a new leak. Bubbles are now coming from the black idle adjustment thumb screw on the throttle body. How can I seal that? Teflon tape or something?

Edit: have done a little research and some people mention loosening a lock nut before being able to adjust they’re base idle. Don’t know if this applies to my throttle body but if it does I don’t believe I have a lock nut, just the thumb screw threaded in.

Last edited by maxitoman007; 12-10-2017 at 03:51 AM..
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Old 12-10-2017, 12:23 PM   #158
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maxitoman007 View Post
Ok managed to seal the throttle body tps side using a generic o ring. Now I found a new leak. Bubbles are now coming from the black idle adjustment thumb screw on the throttle body. How can I seal that? Teflon tape or something?

Edit: have done a little research and some people mention loosening a lock nut before being able to adjust they’re base idle. Don’t know if this applies to my throttle body but if it does I don’t believe I have a lock nut, just the thumb screw threaded in.
The thumb screw doesn't have a lock nut. The lock nut you're seeking is on the throttle lever adjustment screw. Time for more research.

http://www.turbobricks.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=321181
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Old 12-10-2017, 01:53 PM   #159
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Seems to me like he’s talking about the thumb screw adjustment here :

Quote:
Originally Posted by eurotrash940 View Post
3. Adjusting the Idle Speed
On the front side of your throttle body, there is an adjustment screw.
Loosen the lock nut. Start the engine and turn the adjustment screw
until idle is 480-520 rpm. Switch off the engine and tighten the lock
nut while holding the adjustment screw so it doesn't turn.
Can the throttle lever adjustment screw adjust idle speed? Because earlier in the article he already discusses how to set that screw, then he refers to the screw above as if it’s something the reader has not read about yet. I most certainly could be wrong but that’s just how I saw it.

Aside from that, does anybody know how I could seal those threads up? I was thinking (even if there isn’t a lock nut stock) I could thread a nut and an o ring under neath the nut on to the thumb screw before screwing it back in. Once the screw is set correctly, tighten down the nut with the o ring underneath hopefully sealing the threads.
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Old 12-10-2017, 05:03 PM   #160
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Definitely time to read up on how it works. There's a throttle stop screw that yes, it can adjust the idle speed. Then on LH2.2 cars there's a thumbscrew as well to fine tune the adjustment, 2.4 cars don't have this.
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Old 12-10-2017, 05:29 PM   #161
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Ohh I understand now. But the real question now is how do I seal it?
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Old 12-10-2017, 06:31 PM   #162
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maxitoman007 View Post
Ohh I understand now. But the real question now is how do I seal it?
Maybe teflon pipe thread sealant, allowing the sealant to dry before reinstalling.

According to the parts diagram the o-ring fits on the adjuster. Apparently the thumb wheel just screws out of the housing, lube the o-ring, slip it onto the adjuster and reinstall. Volvo part number for o-ring is 947114.

11.0 (7/16") OD
6.7 mm ID
2.4 mm thickness

Closest I figure on standard o-ring size is:
7/16" OD
1/4" ID
3/32" thickness

Last edited by lummert; 12-10-2017 at 09:06 PM..
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Old 12-11-2017, 03:12 PM   #163
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Found a slightly bigger o ring for sale in my city with the dimensions of :

3mm thick with a 6.5mm ID. Groove is 3.2mm wide so it should fit. It should also be slightly bigger and hopefully seal it up better.
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Old 02-01-2018, 10:46 PM   #164
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Well, after crunching the numbers, I have come to a conclusion as to my spooling issue. My compressor wheel is just too damn big. Laying it out with a T04E 60 trim compressor map and using a cfm estimate puts my turbo spooling 20 psi right about where it is right now, at 5100 rpm. After all it really was just having troubles spooling a big turbo. In a way I dig the lag though haha.
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Old 02-01-2018, 11:02 PM   #165
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You canít determine spool from a compressor map.

A properly sized turbine wheel and housing has no problems making 20 psi out of a T04E 60 trim by 3200 on a redblock.
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Old 02-02-2018, 03:17 AM   #166
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Ugh! Wtf! Just when I think I’ve solved it a comment like that makes me frustrated again. Why!? Why can’t I just get this damn turbo to spool earlier? My wastegate works fine I’ve tested it at just wastegate pressure and it opens perfectly at the set psi. I’ve checked my timing using the notch in the actual crank gear not the pulley and everything is in check there. I’ve done boost leak testing to the point where any leak significant enough to cause that much of a difference in spool would have been found. Idk what else to check. Is the fact that it’s a stage 3 turbine causing issues? The turbo is rated for a max 500hp from what I’ve read. When looking at the compressor map I seem to be behind the surge line explaining my long spooling, but people all over are claiming it can be done. I just don’t know where else to look!

Quote:
Originally Posted by gross polluter View Post
You can’t determine spool from a compressor map.

A properly sized turbine wheel and housing has no problems making 20 psi out of a T04E 60 trim by 3200 on a redblock.
What gear?



Here are links to the turbo:

https://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchan...de=GRT-TBO-034

http://www.himni-racing.com/turbocha...-60-trim-500hp

The Garrett number: 466159-5008

Last edited by maxitoman007; 02-02-2018 at 03:24 AM..
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Old 02-02-2018, 05:10 PM   #167
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Bump
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Old 02-03-2018, 04:19 AM   #168
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Nobody has any other ideas? Iím open to even obvious stuff I may need to look over. As for boost leaks, I feel certain I donít have a leak large enough to cause any significant issues. Only things I can think of still are making sure the turbo still spins freely as well as possibly cleaning my air filter?
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Old 02-03-2018, 08:51 AM   #169
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Are you running an m46? What rear end ratio do you have? You might be running out of gear in first. When I had an m47 and 3.73 I couldn't build full boost in first before I ran out of rpm since the gearing was so quick. Good for about 5 car lengths before having to switch to 2nd.
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Old 02-03-2018, 09:50 AM   #170
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"you feel certain you don't"

does not mean "I know I don't"

These are things you need to *know*
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Old 02-04-2018, 06:30 AM   #171
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VB242 View Post
Are you running an m46? What rear end ratio do you have? You might be running out of gear in first. When I had an m47 and 3.73 I couldn't build full boost in first before I ran out of rpm since the gearing was so quick. Good for about 5 car lengths before having to switch to 2nd.
I am running an m46 with whatever stock rear end ratio comes on an 87 740 turbo in Canada.

Quote:
Originally Posted by linuxman51 View Post
"you feel certain you don't"

does not mean "I know I don't"

These are things you need to *know*
Wouldn’t a leak causing this much of a difference be extremely significant? I’ve created a diy boost leak tester with a pvc end cap and a schrader valve all hooked up to a bike pump. Can get the pump up to 5psi and then I can no longer force more in. Once I disconnect the bike pump at about 5 psi it takes about 8 seconds for it to go back to 0 psi. I’ve used the soapy water trick and managed to find and repair 2 reasonably small leaks around my throttle body but that is all I could find so far.

Last edited by maxitoman007; 02-04-2018 at 01:14 PM..
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Old 02-04-2018, 09:46 AM   #172
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Well how far does 1st gear take you when you give it the nurtz? A few car lengths before it tachs out?
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Old 02-04-2018, 10:55 AM   #173
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OP a smaller turbo will wake sooner and may even make boost in first.
That great big thing that someone says will wake by 3200.... Is that 3200 in third after waiting for it to build enough pressure to.... Yee-Haw! Brap-brap-brap... (Rev limiter) shift wait wait wait Yee-haw! ... Rinse, repeat.

Point is that much fun is had with one that wakes by 2000 and operates in its efficiency range to redline for your power goals. That HUGE HP number? How much fun is that when it only happens via driving it like you are trying to kill it?
Also... Big torque WILL break that M-46. Happens with stock power.
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Old 02-04-2018, 01:10 PM   #174
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VB242 View Post
Well how far does 1st gear take you when you give it the nurtz? A few car lengths before it tachs out?
Yea around that. But even with a short first gear, this thing doesn’t even spool until 5000 in 2nd.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnLane View Post
OP a smaller turbo will wake sooner and may even make boost in first.
That great big thing that someone says will wake by 3200.... Is that 3200 in third after waiting for it to build enough pressure to.... Yee-Haw! Brap-brap-brap... (Rev limiter) shift wait wait wait Yee-haw! ... Rinse, repeat.

Point is that much fun is had with one that wakes by 2000 and operates in its efficiency range to redline for your power goals. That HUGE HP number? How much fun is that when it only happens via driving it like you are trying to kill it?
Also... Big torque WILL break that M-46. Happens with stock power.
I understand what you are saying however I would really like to avoid just walking around the spooling problem by buying a new turbo and just work with what I got. Spooling at 3200 sounds awesome if that’s a possibility..
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Old 02-04-2018, 03:08 PM   #175
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Programmable EMS. Tell it to do anti-lag.

But that is not happening with what you have, is not an easy bolt-in or free.

Or get it to retard ignition timing when not making boost with large throttle openings to dump heat in the exhaust.
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