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Old 02-03-2018, 09:20 PM   #1
EivlEvo
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Default Extending the pedal travel on clutch?

So, I'm running the Kennedy Stage 2 rn in my 245+t T5 swap. It all seems fine, but I'm struggling hard with getting the right cable travel.

As it is, I have my clutch engaging RIGHT off the floor, and I have zero play at my fork meaning I'm probably riding on the TOB.

Any thoughts on if I were to add a CNC piece of steel that can pin into place to effectively increase the total travel of the clutch?

Or is there some other adjustment I should be messing with?
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Old 02-03-2018, 09:43 PM   #2
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Wut? Yeah adjust the cable adjuster? It's where the cable runs through the bellhousing. You turn that there should be threads there.
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Old 02-03-2018, 09:49 PM   #3
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I do believe you can space out the pivot ball from the bellhousing if pivot ball is on passenger side. That has been a secret in the 5.0 and T5 swaps that I found digging through old archives.
Basically, your clutch fork needs to be perpendicular to the input shaft. You may also use different height/adjustable throw out bearings. Really need to elaborate more on your setup and how you swapped it.
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Old 02-04-2018, 12:56 PM   #4
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With my T5 swap, I had an issue getting the throwout bearing to engage. I ended up shimming the pivot ball a great deal and added a spacer behind the throwout bearing itself. Works fine now.
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Old 02-04-2018, 01:01 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by PeaceEngineered View Post
I do believe you can space out the pivot ball from the bellhousing if pivot ball is on passenger side. That has been a secret in the 5.0 and T5 swaps that I found digging through old archives.
Basically, your clutch fork needs to be perpendicular to the input shaft. You may also use different height/adjustable throw out bearings. Really need to elaborate more on your setup and how you swapped it.
Yeah this

It’s the **** everyone including myself find out after doing the swap

Fuk, it pissed me off
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Old 02-04-2018, 02:10 PM   #6
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Quote:
Yeah this

It’s the **** everyone including myself find out after doing the swap

Fuk, it pissed me off
I bought the little blocks from ben and I ended up not being able to use them.

It was a real slap in the teeth putting the whole thing together and finding out that the clutch wouldn't disengage.
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Old 02-04-2018, 03:42 PM   #7
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Sbabbs. The cable is adjusted son. I'm noob but not that noob.

The cable is adjusted, it just takes THE ENTIRE PEDAL SWEEP to work the thing. When pedal is UP (clutch engaged) I have zero free play and I suspect my TOB is riding the springs. When the pedal is ON THE FLOOR the clutch has JUST fully disengaged (checked with car in the air).

When you guys are "shimming" I think we need to be more specific. There are 2 options.

1. Adding blocks to the TOB to move it closer to the motor correct? This MIGHT help because it would effectively increase the travel because it's on a mid-pivot on the arm.

2. Adjusting the pivot ball. If I were to shim that to be taller (closer to the motor) this would effectively do the same thing as increasing my pedal sweep I suspect. How and how much have you all been shimming?

The reason I was thinking about CNC a piece to extend the pedals arm is also because my hole for the cable didn't line up perfectly. And I'm sick of dropping my trans lol.
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Old 02-04-2018, 03:49 PM   #8
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Turd option, your cable is stretching or your cable housing is compressing.
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Old 02-04-2018, 06:04 PM   #9
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Turd option, your cable is stretching or your cable housing is compressing.
This, or some other mechanical part having play.

Option 1 and 2 only move the travel one way or the other, travel itself stays the same so the clutch won't fully engage or disengage
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Old 02-04-2018, 06:10 PM   #10
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You will most likely need to put washers (I used 5-6 fairly thick ones) behind the clutch fork pivot ball. I also did something clever with the TOB because I used a stock ford one without any adapter blocks, so it sat very far in, I ended up using a plastic part from the OEM Volvo TOB to make a really snug shim for it. When I get a moment, I might take a picture for you.

How did you get around adapting the TOB. What did you do to make it work.
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Old 02-04-2018, 10:30 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by LeedomtoFreedom View Post
You will most likely need to put washers (I used 5-6 fairly thick ones) behind the clutch fork pivot ball. I also did something clever with the TOB because I used a stock ford one without any adapter blocks, so it sat very far in, I ended up using a plastic part from the OEM Volvo TOB to make a really snug shim for it. When I get a moment, I might take a picture for you.

How did you get around adapting the TOB. What did you do to make it work.
I'm on the stock Volvo TOB. Fit fine and with the Deeworks, you use the stock TOB.

The cable is def stretching a bit. Or my adjustment is sliding around.
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Old 02-04-2018, 10:47 PM   #12
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Quote:
'm on the stock Volvo TOB. Fit fine and with the Deeworks, you use the stock TOB.
How does it fit over the t5 bearing retainer thing.
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Old 02-05-2018, 12:27 AM   #13
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His has a machined part in the kit.
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Old 02-05-2018, 12:56 AM   #14
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Interesting. I'd shim the pivot ball. That would be my first step. You said it engages only just at the end of the travel. Try to shim with that distance in mind as you don't want to shim it too far and have to take it apart again.
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Old 02-05-2018, 09:46 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by Jack View Post
Yeah this

Itís the **** everyone including myself find out after doing the swap

Fuk, it pissed me off
Yepper. Same feeling. It is tough to put together any definitive thread for this topic. Too many different configurations out there. But the spacer is a tough one not to find out about. I hate R&R stuff when I coulda done it "right" the first time.
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Originally Posted by EivlEvo View Post
Sbabbs. The cable is adjusted son. I'm noob but not that noob.

The cable is adjusted, it just takes THE ENTIRE PEDAL SWEEP to work the thing.

2. Adjusting the pivot ball. If I were to shim that to be taller (closer to the motor) this would effectively do the same thing as increasing my pedal sweep I suspect. How and how much have you all been shimming?

The reason I was thinking about CNC a piece to extend the pedals arm is also because my hole for the cable didn't line up perfectly. And I'm sick of dropping my trans lol.
I would like to see what you come up with on an extension. I have thought of playing with a Mustang clutch quadrant to see if it could be adapted to the 240, but time has gotten in my way. Was going to see if I could get the shift fork positioned more optimally first.
Quote:
Originally Posted by LeedomtoFreedom View Post
You will most likely need to put washers (I used 5-6 fairly thick ones) behind the clutch fork pivot ball. I also did something clever with the TOB because I used a stock ford one without any adapter blocks, so it sat very far in, I ended up using a plastic part from the OEM Volvo TOB to make a really snug shim for it. When I get a moment, I might take a picture for you.

How did you get around adapting the TOB. What did you do to make it work.
I was going to use a 1/4" spacer to start (read that in an old thread). Seems like that is about what you ended up with.
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Old 02-05-2018, 10:51 AM   #16
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Tell us how it goes. At least you didn't put a clutch disc in backwards like I once did.
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Old 02-06-2018, 12:02 PM   #17
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If you use the correct TOB you do not need to space the pivot ball out.
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Old 02-06-2018, 12:03 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by LeedomtoFreedom View Post
I bought the little blocks from ben and I ended up not being able to use them.

It was a real slap in the teeth putting the whole thing together and finding out that the clutch wouldn't disengage.
Got to use the right length TOB my guy.
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Old 02-06-2018, 12:40 PM   #19
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Got to use the right length TOB my guy.
I know, it wasn't the nicest fix, but it works.
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Old 02-06-2018, 01:29 PM   #20
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So then what's my issue squad?

If I set it so that with the car in the air, my wheels start to spin just as the clutch comes off the floor, there is ZERO play on the fork when the pedal is released. This leads me to believe, I need more pedal sweep.

I can increase sweep by changing my variables. Changing the pivot ball height would do it, but if I'm missing a reason why I SHOULDN'T do this... I'd like to know.

If I extend the pedals arm, this would also do such a thing, but maybe I'm over complicating things if it's as simple as adding a washer?
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Old 02-06-2018, 01:31 PM   #21
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I had to use a spacer on the clutch fork pivot for my Saab 240 mm clutch setup. Easy to do, no issues with it in the 1000's of miles since. That was something like 1/4 of an inch or so, I used a longer bolt with the spacer.
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Old 02-06-2018, 02:28 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by blkaplan View Post
If you use the correct TOB you do not need to space the pivot ball out.
Ben-
In my case it is the factory 87-93 Mustang everything- TOB, clutch fork, disc, pressure plate and flywheel. There is just not enough throw to have a well modulated clutch.
As Jack and I discussed, there are too many options of assembly to say what each option needs to publish definitive answers. That said, what recommendation do you have for proper clutch fork position to create the greatest throw? That information would apply across the board regardless of setup, and allow the correct height TOB to be acquired. I know I have seen a sketch somewhere...
Thanks.
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Old 02-06-2018, 02:59 PM   #23
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If I extend the pedals arm, this would also do such a thing, but maybe I'm over complicating things if it's as simple as adding a washer?
You literally can't do this because at a certain point, the clutch fork will hit the bellhousing, I know this because I shimmed the clutch cable so much that I too had it only just contacting the clutch, but it was hitting the bellhousing window hole thing for the clutch fork to fit through. You will most likely have to shim the pivot ball, shim the TOB itself, or as ben mentioned, get the right TOB.
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Old 02-07-2018, 11:32 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by PeaceEngineered View Post
Ben-
In my case it is the factory 87-93 Mustang everything- TOB, clutch fork, disc, pressure plate and flywheel. There is just not enough throw to have a well modulated clutch.
As Jack and I discussed, there are too many options of assembly to say what each option needs to publish definitive answers. That said, what recommendation do you have for proper clutch fork position to create the greatest throw? That information would apply across the board regardless of setup, and allow the correct height TOB to be acquired. I know I have seen a sketch somewhere...
Thanks.
Factory TOB is the wrong TOB for a 240...

I have the info listed on my site.

https://www.kaplhenke.com/collection...-adapter-plate

You want the Mcleod adjustable TOB, its much taller and moves the travel range of the fork back.
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Old 02-07-2018, 01:58 PM   #25
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Factory TOB is the wrong TOB for a 240...

I have the info listed on my site.

https://www.kaplhenke.com/collection...-adapter-plate

You want the Mcleod adjustable TOB, its much taller and moves the travel range of the fork back.
Thanks for responding Ben.
I don't think I am thread jacking as it is on topic, but in my case I should have added it is a 5.0 GT-40 motor with the Ford bellhousing as well. Would the McLeod TOB 16515 still work in this case? I have not had to do this before with prior 5.0 projects (first for everything though including a swap into a 240). Thanks again.
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