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#26 |
Board Member
![]() Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Monterey/Falun
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![]() I will say this, if the car is a daily, a b230f+t, t cam, and 15g is a very fun and drivable combo
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1979 Volvo 244DL 6.0/4l80e,8.8,Ms3x goldbox ecu and Mircrosquirt tcu, GTX4202r, 228/230cam, tbss intake, 11.4@123mph 9psi 1991 Volvo 245, Efan conversion, tcam, 4.10s, Aw71L 1982 Ford Fairmont Futura, 4.8/th400, 8.8, mircrosquirt, 7875 turbo, 228/230 cam, Project Cheap Thrills |
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#27 | |
Board Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Chicago
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#28 |
Board Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Midlands UK
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![]() You could always rebuild your 15G with a bigger coldside (20T?) - supposed to be an upgrade.
Tim |
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#29 |
Board Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
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![]() and you could pay some serious attention to port matching the exhaust side from head to manifold, from manifold to turbine housing, the wastegate port (cost: some good quality diegrinder tools and your own time and input) and offcourse use a nice freeflowing downpipe and exhaust.(at least 2.5") You want to have the biggest pressure drop from manifold to downpipe.
The easier the turbine can get rid of the exhaust gasses, the faster it will spool up. The easier the exhaust gasses can flow into the turbine, the faster it will spool up. All this detail work will reduce lag and make the turbo spool up quicker and respond to different throttle inputs faster. |
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#30 | |
Board Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Germany
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And again, a lot of people think in a other way than I do. And they never did a test on the dyno or the flow bench. Regards, Kay |
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#31 |
Board Member
Join Date: Sep 2017
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![]() So you are saying an un-ported manifold out performed a manifold with ported flanges while all things were kept equal? What was the rest of your engine setup?
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#32 |
Boosting along.
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Mesa, AZ
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![]() Money, goal, time, knowledge, what do you have?
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85 GLH 367whp 00 Insight mpg > yours. |
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#33 | |
Board Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Chicago
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Addendum - I have the 3" angled hotside and 3" exhaust all the way from downpipe, all made by me, so you know it's quality ![]() |
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#34 | |
Board Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: No Pants Island
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#35 |
PV Abuser
![]() Join Date: May 2004
Location: St. Louis
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![]() I've been really happy with my BW EFR. Super slick and tidy internal WG dual scroll with built in boost control valve and CBV.
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'63 PV Rat Rod '93 245 16VT Classic #1141 |
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#36 |
50 shades of beige
![]() Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Rockville, MD
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![]() they are very nice units.
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#37 |
BRANDSCHUTZVORSCHRIFTEN!
![]() Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: mont, AL
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![]() to a certain extent, this would be expected behavior. if all you do is hog out the area around the flange, what you're doing is creating a balloon in the middle.
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"They bum rushed them in their own crib, they drank all their beer, they partied with their ladies and they left with the trophy" Now with in-house Dyno tuning! Megasquirt Tuning! Plug and play LH 2.4 Megasquirt, now with stealth mode! |
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#38 |
Board Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: No Pants Island
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#39 |
Board Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Chicago
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![]() I'm thinking more moderate budget, FAFSA can only pay for so much.
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#40 | |||
Section 9
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Horizons Cave
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Quote:
Something that's been known forever is that where the power is can make a vehicle easier to drive/ride quickly. More bottom and and mid-range means you don't have to worry about shifting as much, assuming you have a stick. If you have an auto and you're not drag racing, a more responsive engine is always the way to go. OTOH, you can get away with a stick and a larger turbo as you'll have more control over where you are in the rev range. I prefer a faster spooling setup every time because where and how I like to drive. Country roads, mountain roads, that kind of 5h1t. Rather than having to focus some thought on being in the right gear with a stick, I can focus more on reading the road/situation, line choice, corner entry, and transition back to power. If you already have a 15g, that's easily upgraded to a 18t, 19t, and even a 22t. Next step up from there if you want more power but would still like some spool (and not break the bank) would be a .48 AR Stg III or Stg V hotside T3/T4. Yet a third option that everyone here hates is the TD05-12b. Easily built up to a 16g, 18g, and even 20g. They'll knock you because the manifold required is inferior (and it's true) but reported difference in gains was only around 10hp? Not much to worry about and easily accounted for with smart cam choice and the fact that Mitsu G wheels CRUSH those T wheels on the TD04's. Think about what kind of driving you want to do then go from there and have fun. ![]()
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#41 | |
PV Abuser
![]() Join Date: May 2004
Location: St. Louis
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I do know the dual scroll internal WG version (which I have) had some initial issues with the turbine castings. They were supposed to be using investment casting (to make a more precise and lighter housing) but had troubles with quality control - too many rejected castings. There was a delay, and then they started making the version I got which has a conventionally cast housing. I guess a little heavier and not as smooth inside. Still stainless, though. Last edited by JohnMc; 02-20-2018 at 10:28 AM.. |
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#42 |
Boosting along.
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Mesa, AZ
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#43 |
Section 9
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Horizons Cave
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#44 |
Board Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Dallas,TX
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![]() A 16t chra would be a better starting off point. A 15g would require machining of the chra which isn't cheap. With a 16t chra, you could easily upgrade to an 18t or even to a 19t with conversion wheel(which won't require machining of chra). The 19t conversion wheel is available from ARD or Kinugawa. If you did go to a 22t, that would require machining of the chra.
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#45 | |
Section 9
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Horizons Cave
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When I said upgrade, I was talking about buying CHRA, wheels, and compressor housing. Something like... ![]() http://shopping.kinugawaturbo.com/tu...monster-1.aspx I'll be more clear in the future. ![]() |
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#46 |
LOCAL ONLY
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Lake stevens, wa
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![]() Kinuga is cool
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#47 |
Newbie
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Columbia, TN
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![]() I'm in a similar situation. I have the stock mitsubishi 13c in my 94 940 turbo. I'm running 12 pounds of boost and it pulls nicely, but I'm looking for a bit more on the cheap. A 15g is a direct bolt-up while a 16t requires a dp correct? What other mods are required to run high boost with a 15g? Injectors? maf? tuning chips?
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#48 |
LOCAL ONLY
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Lake stevens, wa
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![]() Define high
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#49 | |
Board Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Lancaster, PA
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Conical flange on left, flat flange on right. ![]() |
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#50 |
Board Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Chicago
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![]() The angled flange also has much better flow properties. I got my angled flange off of an 850 with a mitsu 13b or something.
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