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Old 12-08-2007, 04:38 PM   #176
klr142
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Me too. They meant to send out hub centric ones(to the car), but for some reason they didn't, so they're going through the hassle of getting me the correct ones. I also asked for wheel centric, so they're doing something they never do normally, and making me wheel and hub centric versions for an additional $30 each. Which still puts me at less $$$ than Fred Goeske's nice ones(wheeladapters.com). But I wouldn't have had to deal with any of this hassle if I had gone through him in the first place. Meh.

I WANT MY WHEELS ON NOW! That's why I didn't swing over to the VW side last night Jordan, lol. Well, that and the fact that I went out joy riding in the white 242, and then my car after that...

Anywho, yesterday I spent another couple hours tinkering with the car. Took off all the door panels, replaced most of the window regulator washers, lubed everything up, and put it all back together nicely with the plastic sheets all as they should be. Also had to spend an hour tinkering with my worn driver's door handle, but it's better now. Yet another step taken to have a like new 244...
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Old 12-16-2007, 05:49 PM   #177
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I forgot to mention, when I had the door panels off, I couldn't get the door pull "knobs" off... On my 142 they were relatively easy to remove, basically just pull up. These ones I felt like I was going to pull the door of the hinges and got no where. So they're still blue. It'd look better black...

Earlier this week I removed the rear Bilstein HDs and the rear springs. I chopped a smidge more off the rear springs, and made them even, as opposed to one being slightly taller than the other. Then I reinstalled the springs with little 1/4" or so spacers from a 745 above the upper seats. In place of the HDs I put in the Koni Sports on their softest setting. Man, are these things stiff. Up until yesterday it seemed as if they never really compressed unless going over larger bumps. Most of the shock absorbtion was being done by the tires. I felt everything, the car bounces over bumps much like an over damped or over sprung/underdamped car... It felt good, when the road was smooth. My car lost lots of it smooth cruiser feel. I took it on the back roads, and it felt GREAT, much better than the Bilsteins, when the road was mostly smooth. I think the Konis would work better on a wagon, but are too stiff on compression for my application. Yesterday though, I didn't notice it as much. I think they're getting a little better, but that could just be me getting used to them. With 4 guys in the car though, it felt good, and I had trouble bringing the rear out as much as I'd have liked. Needs more LSD and power......... For the price, I should've tried out Bilstein HD front Surburban shocks first. They'd be shorter too. That was the thing that I wasn't expecting, the Konis were, if anything, a couple of mm LONGER than the HDs!

Did the oil change on friday night, along with installed a couple Poly accessory bushings for my alternator. I have some more to do the AC and PS, but the alternator was most important to get done.

Then I "fabbed" up some alloy tubing lower braces. Sadly, I didn't have the best of material to work with, so they're not quite up to the task. They look good, but they're only 3/4" diameter, and really thin walled, so they do flex. I may just go for something that's basically the same as the IPD crap I had on there. Maybe in alloy. Maybe not. Maybe some other material. Who knows. Someday.
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Old 12-16-2007, 06:42 PM   #178
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I'll throw up some pics of those braces you made bud. Just need to recharge my batteries from this weekend... I'm exhausted. Just a note to everyone reading this who has never seen or been in kyle's car in person. It is the single most immaculate Volvo i've ever been in. You don't even have to wear gloves while working on it... it's way too clean. Good Job kyle!
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Old 12-23-2007, 02:14 PM   #179
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I don't think I have a comparable before picture, but here you can somewhat see the exhaust being tucked up further. It used to be about 2" off the ground at it's lowest point. It's almost 2" higher now...

And then you can also see the wimpy lower braces, too.

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Old 12-23-2007, 07:40 PM   #180
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I don't understand how you say the lower braces flex.
They are end loaded tubing and would show signs of buckling if that is the case.
A diagonal brace,or sheet metal would insure that the X member maintains relative position.
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Old 12-23-2007, 10:39 PM   #181
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They are very thin walled, and due to the way they are "crafted"/mounted they are already buckling. The tubes are just hammered flat at each end, with not as much offset to allow mounting on a flat surface as would be optimal. There is a thick washer under between each mounting point on the braces and the car, but it's not thick enough to keep the braces from hitting the subframe/cup where it mounts. They're already bowed, because they aren't spaced out enough. If you know what I mean, kind of hard to paint a picture with words, but immediately obvious if I had some pictures from the side.

And yeah, a cross brace would be a nice addition.

I might try some aluminum angle "iron" next.
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Old 12-23-2007, 10:52 PM   #182
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Originally Posted by klr142 View Post
They are very thin walled, and due to the way they are "crafted"/mounted they are already buckling. The tubes are just hammered flat at each end, with not as much offset to allow mounting on a flat surface as would be optimal. There is a thick washer under between each mounting point on the braces and the car, but it's not thick enough to keep the braces from hitting the subframe/cup where it mounts. They're already bowed, because they aren't spaced out enough. If you know what I mean, kind of hard to paint a picture with words, but immediately obvious if I had some pictures from the side.

And yeah, a cross brace would be a nice addition.

I might try some aluminum angle "iron" next.
Gotcha.
Aluminum is 3x lighter 3x weaker,and fatigues 5x as fast.
I was thinking about the angle iron deal,but it would hang down,unless it was notched,and the return was turned up.
A 1/8 or 18 Ga stainless plate lower brace was my next mod on the 245 but I sold it.
The malleability and toughness of stainless is ideal in this application,
and torsonal loads would be covered by the plate.
Not to mention smoothing undercar airflow.
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Old 12-23-2007, 11:04 PM   #183
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Just did a full re-read of your thread.
A good read and I love your car man.
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Old 12-24-2007, 12:50 AM   #184
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That exhaust looks great now. Did you go under axle with it?
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Old 12-24-2007, 03:05 PM   #185
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Thanks guys.
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Gotcha.
Aluminum is 3x lighter 3x weaker,and fatigues 5x as fast.
I was thinking about the angle iron deal,but it would hang down,unless it was notched,and the return was turned up.
A 1/8 or 18 Ga stainless plate lower brace was my next mod on the 245 but I sold it.
The malleability and toughness of stainless is ideal in this application,
and torsional loads would be covered by the plate.
Not to mention smoothing undercar airflow.
I hope your 3x lighter, 3x weaker, fatigues 5x as fast numbers aren't 100% accurate... Lol. If that were the case, I shouldn't have been anal about lightening things and stuck with the IPD lower stuff. Stainless is heavy, too. Is it lighter than iron? Could it be made with less material and be just as strong? The IPD lower stuff was 1.5"x.25" stock.

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That exhaust looks great now. Did you go under axle with it?
Yes, it's always been under the axle, like stock fitment. I'm not worried about it being low to the ground at that point anymore, before, it was, but now it's more stock and tucked up fitting.

Now, if only I could make the header pipe shut up.
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Old 12-24-2007, 03:19 PM   #186
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Pretty sure aluminum weighs 28% as much as Iron.
But by the time it is alloyed with copper ect,
a third is a good number for comparisons.
Steel or alloys of iron is usually what is used for structural purposes.

Stainless is slightly heavier due to the chromium,and nickel content.
One could bend returns on the edges of the plate brace,and go with a thinner gauge.
Considering the forces involved,and the fact that the front end is designed to wad up in an impact,it may be wise to locate the crossmember,but not overdo it for your intended purpose.
Edit,
That said;with the larger tires you are running,you may very well be able to bend the front crossmember back with a panic stop without a lower brace.

Last edited by Redwood Chair; 12-24-2007 at 03:45 PM..
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Old 01-01-2008, 09:07 PM   #187
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http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery/klr240exhaust

Version 2.0 is in the last 5 pictures. Different downpipe, and the rear section is tweaked to sit higher.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Misfiring issues:
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=122381
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Noisy downpipe issues:
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=122080
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
-New strut tower brace... Cut out a little more of the airbox as well, I didn't realize I had untapped potential there.

-E-fan is on its way

-Brand new Volvo black door pockets are on back order through Volvo to further the two tone interior.

-I have started looking into stereo and speaker options, damn these little speaker areas...

-Wideband setup is on it's way and can be plugged into my other O2 sensor port in my exhaust manifold so I can keep my eye on and tinker with things. Manual pedal assembly too, but who knows how long that'll just be taking up space in the garage. Speaking of my garage, you guys should come over and raid it so I can empty it out a bit.

And how about some new, dirty pictures:





As always, all of the pictures, and larger versions can be found in here: http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery/MY244

NOW WHERE ARE MY NEW WHEEL ADAPTERS!?!?!!?!??!??

Last edited by klr142; 03-05-2011 at 10:06 PM..
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Old 01-01-2008, 11:21 PM   #188
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Looking really nice Kyle, I know you just got the strut brace but have you had a chance to see if it makes a noticeable difference?
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Old 01-01-2008, 11:23 PM   #189
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no longer mom's grocery getter?

so now its kyle's grocery getter?

lookin' good man.
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Old 01-01-2008, 11:47 PM   #190
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Heh, yeah I guess it is Kyle's grocery getter now...

I need my other wheels to REALLY notice a difference with the brace, but yes, I know it's there and it does make the rest of the body twist, rather than the strut towers. It's a noticeable difference, for the better. I don't really know how to describe it. Stiffer chassis = good, period. I noticed it for the better with the other brace, I notice it again now, and it's lighter this time around. Those lower braces may have helped, but they're so far from optimal I'm not going to act like they did anything.
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Old 01-02-2008, 12:30 AM   #191
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The upper brace is massive!

What do you need me to take out of your garage? All i can offer you is the free space you'll have
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Old 01-02-2008, 01:18 AM   #192
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Hey man, swing on by, feel free to come and just take some of the stuff, lol. Well, maybe. How about another pair of snows? You just have two, right? I have two more, but they're old and one needs to be reseated/patched(I assume).
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Old 01-03-2008, 01:39 AM   #193
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Looking good man. Do you have speakers in your rear doors? If not, you can do what I did. I used some lower profile 6.5" speakers in 1" spacers to mount them to the doors. I had to cut holes in the door panels for the speakers to fit in there, but it looks ok. For the fronts I built some spacers to use infinity 4x6 plates. Only problem I have with the plates up front is that I can't use any grilles, so they don't look factory.
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Old 01-04-2008, 03:35 AM   #194
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Yeah, I'm trying to keep it looking factory though... Meh. The rear doors have the factory 4" or so speakers, and the fronts are the later 240 5.25" speakers. There isn't really much room for aftermarket 5.25s up there though. I hate all the fancy dumb grills for a lot of the aftermarket speakers too.

I'm going to see what Crutchfield has to offer me here in the next month or so. I didn't like what Cartoys was telling me my options were.

We'll see.
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Old 01-08-2008, 04:32 AM   #195
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dirty dirty pictures kyle. you ready for a touch up yet?
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Old 01-08-2008, 04:59 PM   #196
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I know. :( You really do not want to see the car right now, it's very sad.

It's going to get all the dents pulled/pushed out of it as well as possible sometime in the next month or two... And a lot of the scratches and spots where the paint is gone will need to be touched up too. I haven't been putting too much effort into that right now as it's giving me other grief. Like being old and rattley. And misfiring more than it should be, I think. Running seemingly rougher than it should be. And lastly, what I'm going to look into tonight, is belt noise/bearing noise from the engine.
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Old 01-27-2008, 05:50 PM   #197
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Brand new Volvo black door pockets and "clips".


What prompted me to get brand new Volvo taillights:


The Koni rear shock install pictures:


Not shorter than stock, as I was expecting...



The 745Ti rear spring spacer that I'm probably going to remove. Or I might cut a little bit more off of the rear springs...


The latest dyno sheet with something FUNKY going on resulting in a 4600rpm power peak? Wtf.


Some temporary rimps while I wait for my adapters to arrive either tomorrow or Tuesday(or else I'm going to flip some ****!) 15x7 et10 225/50 tires


What's this???






WIDEBAND! Now, if only I could calibrate the thing...

I guess that's sort of a peak at the two tone of the interior as well. For some reason I was unable to get the little interior door pulls off of their levers so I could switch those to black and leave the little backing plates blue. I had an idea to further the two tone theme yesterday though, can't wait until the weather gets warmer to take it to that next step...

Then yesterday I chased around some interior rattles, only to basically come up empty handed. I think I may have improved somethings, because now I hear more minor rattles from all over the car.
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Old 02-05-2008, 10:56 PM   #198
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13.5mm effective offset in the front, 10.5 in the rear... Tethys back on. Pictures of the adapters coming later. For a DD I'd probably run a little less thick on the front, just to keep the wheels inside the bodywork a little more(more aerodynamic and less dirt kicked up on the sides), and to maintain the neutral/resilient steering that comes with having close to stock offset. If I were to run 235/40 tires, which is entirely possible(245/40 may work with the right tires and offset), I'd need to run thinner spacers.
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Old 02-20-2008, 01:10 AM   #199
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Yessssss:




I'll have some recent pictures of it clean, and missing the damn front spoiler, and having a TON of rock chips, and in need of some wax soon. Whenever people get around to posting the rest of their pictures from this last weekend's meet, anyway.
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Old 02-20-2008, 01:27 AM   #200
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