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Old 05-06-2018, 01:35 PM   #1
GeneralBurrito
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Default DIY Cherry Turbo lower brace?

From this picture: https://imgur.com/L8J7rwF

It looks like the Cherry Turbo lower brace is simply just flat bar steel that has a truss going across. Is the steel bar specially tempered or is it possible to make my own with some spare flat bar?
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Old 05-06-2018, 02:11 PM   #2
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I've seen DIY versions of that brace on the forums before. I think 3/16" mild steel was used,
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Old 05-06-2018, 02:21 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by Chumley360 View Post
I've seen DIY versions of that brace on the forums before. I think 3/16" mild steel was used,
I'm just wondering because the design looks so simple, they might have done tempered steel or something. I have access to plenty of spare flat bar, so I think it's possible to make my own.
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Old 05-06-2018, 02:57 PM   #4
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I was going to build a couple out of 1" tube of my own design for my 740's
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Old 05-06-2018, 03:16 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by 240wagonguy View Post
I was going to build a couple out of 1" tube of my own design for my 740's
I suppose some round tubing with crushed ends could possibly work too, might be lighter too, but then they won't have the bar that goes across like on the Cherry Turbo one.
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Old 05-06-2018, 03:23 PM   #6
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Easy enough to weld in a cross bar if you go the tube route.
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Old 05-06-2018, 03:25 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by Chumley360 View Post
Easy enough to weld in a cross bar if you go the tube route.
That's true, I think I might do it with some tubing then. A simple design that might have more strength than flat bar since flat bar can bend and it probably weighs a bit less than a solid flat bar.
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Old 05-07-2018, 06:28 PM   #8
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I made mine out of 3/4 schedule 40 pipe
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Old 05-14-2018, 08:53 AM   #9
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the flat one is easy to built. I have put off building one for years because when I find a used one for $40-50 delivered, its hard to justify running down the flat stock to built it. the round one is even simpler but in my mind not as effective.
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Old 05-14-2018, 09:50 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by GeneralBurrito View Post
I suppose some round tubing with crushed ends could possibly work too, might be lighter too, but then they won't have the bar that goes across like on the Cherry Turbo one.
Looks like extra weight to me.

The cross bar is fairly useless unless it runs diagonally.

Also as I said in the other thread 7/8" EMT is sufficient as tubing is very strong when end loaded.
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Old 05-14-2018, 07:24 PM   #11
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Okay, quick question. Is there a difference if I brace the cross member to the frame instead of drilling and bolting onto the rear bushing holders of the control arms? Yoshifab's braces go to the frame, while the cherry turbo braces attach to the rear bushing holders.
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Old 05-14-2018, 08:16 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by Redwood Chair View Post
Looks like extra weight to me.

The cross bar is fairly useless unless it runs diagonally.

Also as I said in the other thread 7/8" EMT is sufficient as tubing is very strong when end loaded.
7/8 emt wall thickness .0456"
3/4 schedule 40 steel pipe .824"
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Old 05-15-2018, 08:17 PM   #13
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7/8 emt wall thickness .0456"
3/4 schedule 40 steel pipe .824"
Are you comparing wall thickness or outer diameter? Where did you get the sizes? Both pipes you listed (assuming 1/2" pipes not 3/4" or 7/8")should have similiar outer diameters if comparing rigid conduit to schedule 40 and will have a wall thickness of ~1/8". Now EMT- light duty conduit- is thinner with a respective reduction in the outer diameter and 3/4" would fall close in outer diameter to the other two.There is not much of any steel part that thick on the front of these cars from the factory that is 1/8" thick. You know it would not be the piece that fails.
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Old 05-16-2018, 03:15 AM   #14
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7/8 emt wall thickness .0456"
3/4 schedule 40 steel pipe .824"
That's hard for me to believe. Are you saying 3/4" steel pipe has a wall thickness of almost 1 inch? How can that be?
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Old 05-16-2018, 05:11 AM   #15
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That's hard for me to believe. Are you saying 3/4" steel pipe has a wall thickness of almost 1 inch? How can that be?
Oops I used the wrong dimension, it's .113" , regardless it's an order of magnitude thicker. Might as well use butterfly wing bushings with snake skin reinforcements if you're using emt.
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Old 05-17-2018, 12:53 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by GeneralBurrito View Post
Okay, quick question. Is there a difference if I brace the cross member to the frame instead of drilling and bolting onto the rear bushing holders of the control arms? Yoshifab's braces go to the frame, while the cherry turbo braces attach to the rear bushing holders.
Volvo Gt lower braces attach to the control arm bushing brackets - they have to be drilled.


There was a noticeable difference when I installed mine
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Old 05-17-2018, 03:58 PM   #17
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Volvo Gt lower braces attach to the control arm bushing brackets - they have to be drilled.


There was a noticeable difference when I installed mine
Yeah but yoshifab's braces bolt on to existing threaded hole on the frame about 2 feet from the cross member. The reviews on those claim to feel quite a difference too.
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Old 05-17-2018, 04:08 PM   #18
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Oops I used the wrong dimension, it's .113" , regardless it's an order of magnitude thicker. Might as well use butterfly wing bushings with snake skin reinforcements if you're using emt.


You don't understand how tubing works, 1/8" wall is just extra unneeded weight.

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Old 05-17-2018, 07:43 PM   #19
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Look at the thickness of all the members it would be connecting. None are that thick. If the EMT thickness is too thin for your taste, then get some .060" chromemoly tubing. Fairly cheap and easily shipped. FFS leave the schedule 40 for the plumber...

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Old 05-17-2018, 07:55 PM   #20
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The area moment of inertia of the 3/4" schedule 40 is higher than the EMT, which means it has more flexural ridgitity assuming the same material). However depending on the other members of the system it may be overkill and just unnecessary weight.
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Old 05-17-2018, 07:57 PM   #21
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If you stacked the car up hard enough to buckle the EMT it would be a moot point anyway.
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Old 05-17-2018, 08:00 PM   #22
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If you stacked the car up hard enough to buckle the EMT it would be a moot point anyway.
Probably true. The torque rods and trailing arms are thinner walled than schedule 40 and hardly larger in diameter and those links see far more stress than a lower chassis brace.
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Old 05-17-2018, 08:20 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GeneralBurrito View Post
Yeah but yoshifab's braces bolt on to existing threaded hole on the frame about 2 feet from the cross member. The reviews on those claim to feel quite a difference too.
Just providing info. josh is one of The few Volvo vendors that has never disappointed me with their products
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Old 05-17-2018, 08:42 PM   #24
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Just providing info. josh is one of The few Volvo vendors that has never disappointed me with their products
Yeah I'm just wondering because the cross members to the subframe are pretty much straight, while cm to the bushing holders are slightly more diagonal. Don't know if the angle of the brace helps with flex.
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Old 05-17-2018, 09:49 PM   #25
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I made some with about $10 worth of hardware store crap.



A cross brace would be pretty easy, if you have a welder.
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