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Tubular Exhaust Manifold Clearance

t8fanning

t8fanning

8v are still cool, right?
Joined
Oct 10, 2010
Location
Vancouver, WA
I'm having some clearance issues with a tubular manifold and was thinking about slotting the flange holes for easier installation/ removal. The issue is that the turbo flange hits the strut tower before the head flange clears the exhaust studs. The way I see it, I could either slot the holes, use bolts instead of studs, or install the studs after the manifold is in place. What would be my best option?

Pics for clarification:

1Nfm4cNh.jpg


PofZh0Bh.jpg
 
Maybe find some replacement studs that can be installed with an allen wrench. Either that or unbolt the engine mount on that side and raise the engine to get the manifold on the studs.
 
I've always heard that you shouldn't use bolts to hold a manifold to an aluminum head. I've never tried it but it's something I just probably wouldn't do. I agree that installing the studs after the manifold is in place is probably your best option, although it kinda sounds like a PITA :lol:

Could you use a shorter stud?
 
You're definitely right. If I used bolts, I would likely ruin the threads in the head after a few installs/removals. I won't use them, but it was an option.

I'll pick up some shorter studs from the hardware store and try that. The benefit of generic studs is they won't have the gap that Volvo ones do, so the length of the threads proud of the head won't be so well-defined.

I've also thought of using a BFH to massage the strut tower at the point of contact. Or chopping 0.5" off each runner and re-welding.
 
you can put that on with studs by loosening the motor mounts and moving the engine away from the strut tower.

but that manifold is not designed for a 240 and it will bang against the strut tower until broken.
 
Most tubular 240 manifolds put the turbo up in front of the engine, but that won't work for me because of the location of the inlet of my intercooler. You think it will bang against the strut tower? Even with poly motor mounts and a third motor mount? That picture isn't with the manifold flush against the head.

In post #42 of this thread, he runs into similar clearance problems with an RSI header.
 
Here is the manifold installed on a few studs. Plenty of strut tower clearance, more so than an RSI header:

DtacAcWh.jpg


Granted, it does get a little close with the turbo installed:

76xfCu2h.jpg


Maybe I'll space the passenger side motor mount up a bit or dent the tower.
 
AndrewNance said:
I've always heard that you shouldn't use bolts to hold a manifold to an aluminum head. I've never tried it but it's something I just probably wouldn't do. I agree that installing the studs after the manifold is in place is probably your best option, although it kinda sounds like a PITA :lol:

Could you use a shorter stud?
Click to expand...

The Volvo SI6 uses bolts to hold the manifolds on.

About clearance- I had to flatten the vertical support on the strut tower to get a wastegate to fit on my manifold. (Niw 16v twin gates). I'll be seam welding it once all final fit meant is done to bring the strength back.

Jordan
 
I fixed my problem. Using shorter (38 mm) studs and a few minutes with a sledge gave me plenty of installation clearance. It even gave me ~1" clearance between the turbine housing and the strut tower.
 
When I cut and flipped my manifold I added a little angle to get it away from the strut tower. With my pudding cup motor mounts I still hit the wastegate actuator on the strut tower.

I also used the ford 5.4 studs
 
One of my stock studs broke, so I am currently running Ford studs from O'Reillys. They seem to work ok and have an inverted Torx head on the end. IIRC it was only $11 or so for a pack of ten studs and nuts.
 
@Jesse that was a good idea to add some angle. I also added angle to mine, but at the collector rather than the head flange. I'm finally getting rid of my intake and exhaust restrictions.

There's no way I could fit an internal wastegate next to the strut tower so I added a tube for an external.

Anyone have any idea how long the ford 5.4 studs are?
 
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