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Old 06-07-2018, 01:57 AM   #1
hessam69
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Default +T AMM relocation question

Hey,

About relocating the AMM to the otherside of the engine bay when +T, I know you have to cut the connector and lengthen the wires, but I was thinking would it be possible to make a harness about 3 feet long that plugs into the original connector, then is joined to another AMM connector on the other side then to the AMM? I would have to make female spade terminals to plug onto the male terminals of the connector.

This saves cutting the original harness.

What do you think?
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Old 06-07-2018, 02:05 AM   #2
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Do you have a source for the female and male connectors? I wouldnt know where to look

I personally just cut the harness. If you ever go back to the original amm location you can just tuck it away. Or you could use some kind of other connector (would still need to cut the harness)
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Old 06-07-2018, 06:25 AM   #3
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We tried cutting open an AMM years ago to harvest the connector and only ended up finding gnomes or something. It wasn't useable. Just cut the harness, make good crimps or solder, or put in a 6 pin connector.
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Old 06-07-2018, 06:59 AM   #4
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I attempted this as well and couldn't source the connectors needed. Just cut the pigtail and pull the wires back through the harness.
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Old 06-07-2018, 11:32 AM   #5
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Did you try Volvo? I can tell you the 6 pole female connector body is pn 978151. If you look it up for a 95 940 Turbo on https://usparts.volvocars.com/, it gives a mess of options. You'll need to measure the electrical terminals for size to get the pn, but they're there. I'm not sure if you're going to find a 6 pole male connector body, however.

Last edited by shoestring; 06-07-2018 at 11:44 AM..
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Old 06-07-2018, 12:47 PM   #6
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Earlier 850s had the female connector up on the LH strut mount for the ABS connector. You could use that as the other end for your harness if you can find one.
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Old 06-07-2018, 01:14 PM   #7
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I believe the male connector is the issue. (Currently only found as an integral part of the MAF housing/other device)
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Old 06-07-2018, 04:47 PM   #8
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Yeah I see that...there must be a solution. Anybody know who produced these/what series of connectors they are?
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Old 06-08-2018, 12:56 PM   #9
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Stock wires are long enough for +T. Only ground wire is too short, it is grounded on intake manifold.
Just remove pins from AMM connector, make small hole on the wiring tube close to bulkhead and pull out AMM wires. With last wire I pull in longer ground wire, so I can use stock ground point.
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Old 06-08-2018, 12:58 PM   #10
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You could also relocate the MAF sensor to the spare parts bin in the basement. Install MS, and win.

I did the same as everyone here, but then realized it was tricky to get the car idling and running perfect with the MAF over yonder.
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Old 06-08-2018, 05:06 PM   #11
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Some one was making AMM harnesses that you just push through the fire wall and unpin the original AMM wires pin the new ones in leave the OG one hanging and go drive. I thought it was Dave Barton but I didn't see it on hos site
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Old 06-09-2018, 06:40 AM   #12
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just put the amm on the intake pipe me and my friends are doing so and we havent been braking any amms yet and boost around 21 psi...
dont forget to remove the net on the amm that can break it, if it gets sucked in :D
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Old 06-09-2018, 10:17 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kimbo View Post
just put the amm on the intake pipe me and my friends are doing so and we havent been braking any amms yet and boost around 21 psi...
dont forget to remove the net on the amm that can break it, if it gets sucked in :D
Really? It's that simple?
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Old 06-09-2018, 12:20 PM   #14
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TBH, the time youíve spent pontificating on this you could have cut, soldered, heat shrinked and taped up the extended cable, lol.
Seriously, get a trailer cable as thatís 7 Core and automobile grade. Iíve been boosting my AMM to 25 psi for a year now and itís fine, hose slips over a month by about 3-4 mm but just needs retightning as itís not got beads as it was meant to be under no pressure but, meh. Idle was factory smooth, why wouldnít it be?
A simple 15 min job and excess cable can be tidied away. Do it.
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Old 06-14-2018, 09:18 AM   #15
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I bought a 240 that already had the AMM relocated by cutting the harness and lengthening the wires. Since I didn't do it myself, I wanted to re-do it and be certain I had good connections and proper insulation & routing of the wiring.

I used non-insulated butt connectors to make the splices and used a good crimp tool. I did not use solder. Heat-shrink tubing over each of the butt-connections.

I harvested a lot of the soft rubber wiring loom (covering) from behind the dash of a junkyard 240. If you happen to have a junkyard with '90s 240s, I recommend pulling the loom/covering material from under the dash because it's not dirty like in the engine bay, and it hasn't been exposed to heat, so it should still be flexible. I like it because it's a solid piece, not split like what you can buy at auto parts stores. Since it's not split, you have to slide it onto the wires before you crimp the connections, but by overlapping some pieces, you can make a nice, protected harness with a few pieces of recycled loom and it will match the factory harness.
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