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Old 09-20-2015, 01:35 PM   #26
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Congratulations!

There is a mechanical device behind the dash to turn on the Lambda light that is manually reset when the sensor is changed.

The O2 sensors of that era were on a 25k routine maintenance cycle. When warm the lead from the sensor should read 0.7v or slightly higher. Without that 0.7v you need a new sensor.
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Old 09-20-2015, 02:02 PM   #27
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If the car was running on dino oil you may want to think twice about the switch to synth. The detergent properties on new synth are quite good. On older engines it's not uncommon for teeny/tiny passages in old/brittle gaskets and seals to have sludge/debris "sealing" them that gets cleaned out by the better detergents - and voila - you have a small (or big) leak where you had none before. And switching back doesn't cure the leak. Pretty common complaint when switching an old one to synth.
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Old 09-20-2015, 02:59 PM   #28
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This era PRV engine has a history of making the cam lobes round due to limited oiling. The enhanced lubricating properties of synthetic oil over dino oil is just what this engine needs. With only 28k miles there should not be a real issue with leakage.
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Old 09-20-2015, 03:10 PM   #29
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Thanks for the input. All is not completely rosy. I noticed that if I let it SIT for a while it needs more cranking to get it going. So something is wrong. I don't think it is the injectors. As I said earlier they did not leak. But they also did not hold rest pressure very long either which I blame on a leak in the tool. Maybe??? About the oil change, need some input. Should I just go ahead and change it now or wait to put few miles on the car? I did consider the possibility of a leak if changing over to synth. so i have both at the ready.
Went over all of the accessories. All of the lights, radio, wipers, window, switches, etc. work. Yeah. Only the small clock doesn't work but I'm sure I have one somewhere. Also the ac compressor kick on and the unit blows cool air not warm. What a surprise there. No more work today. Tomorrow I'll revisit the brakes and maybe the oil depending on the feedback I get. You don't know how relieved I am right now.

Last edited by nel621; 09-21-2015 at 05:39 PM.. Reason: left out a key word
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Old 09-20-2015, 11:23 PM   #30
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Great to hear you got it running, now you can start working the kinks out slowly with the peace of mind that you have a running driving car! I put mobil 1 synthetic in the 67' Amazon, I considered the oil leak issue, but out ruled it. Hopefully the switch to synthetic doesn't cause leaks, since currently it does not leak oil at all that i have seen in the two months since I bought it! On talks of leaks, I think it does have a leak from the exhaust manifold.

My mind is absolutely blown that you were able to get that car up and down that insane hill by your house!
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Old 09-21-2015, 01:23 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nel621 View Post
And now for the really good news! IT MOVES! Shifts smoothly, engine sounds strong, no loud engine cam noise.
YES!, exciting having a mover!
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Old 09-21-2015, 08:37 PM   #32
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OK.Car starts right up. Good thing. While it was running I put it up on jack stands to check out by brake issue. I did notice I can hear a slight cricket/buzzing sound. Maybe my so called 'new" in tank pump is on its way out? Still don't think this causing my hard warm start issue. Gathering parts to make pressure tool ala TestPoint.
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Old 10-06-2015, 10:58 PM   #33
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DIY test equipment here
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showth...wpost&t=289775
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Old 10-06-2015, 11:00 PM   #34
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 photo pressure gauge 001_zpsak0qaw23.jpg
 photo pressure gauge 002_zps8g089bhg.jpg
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Old 10-18-2015, 12:56 PM   #35
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So a little more progress today. Been dealing with a no brake pedal issue. Finally got the Motive Brake bleeder to hold some pressure and went around the entire car including the MC and now i have brakes again. Took it for a spin around the neighborhood to bed the pads and also get some of the surface rust off of the rotors. I still have a brake failure light though. I know it has to do with the "sliding" switch in the front proportioning valve, something about it not being centered. What would be the best way of centering it without having to bleed the brakes all over again? Next up is using my new tool to test the control pressure regulator. At least the car is back on the ground now, yeah!
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Old 10-18-2015, 03:36 PM   #36
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Dang I read all about that re centering doing the 164 brakes a few years back-I don't recall the procedure but pretty sure I found it on K-jet.something. I lucked out and didn't have to do that.
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Old 10-19-2015, 02:41 PM   #37
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It lives!
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Old 10-19-2015, 03:00 PM   #38
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Update
Put the gauge on it but the car does not hold pressure. What I did was to connect the gauge then started the car and let it run for a while. The running pressure was up around 60 psi. Once the car was off the gauge slowly but not that slow went down to about 18 psi.Then finally down to zero. Still not sure if it is the control pressure regulator or the fuel accumulator. talking to my mechanic friend, his money is on the accumulator. Granted he is only going by what I have reported. Interesting enough it would start right up after I let it sit. ???? Didn't do anything about the brake failure light yet. For those who know, can I just have someone sit in the car then open one end of the "octopus" and see if an assistant notices the light go out. If not then try going from the other side. Your thoughts please.
On a side note, moved some cars around so now the coupe is out of the driveway.
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Old 10-19-2015, 03:04 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Iron View Post
It lives!
Yes. It was my goal to at least have it moving and stopping under its own power BEFORE the really cold weather moved in. The pressure test, brake light and other things that will need attention are not so critical right now. i will keep working on it as the time and weather permit but I really want to get back on my 79 coupe and finish the body work.
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Old 10-19-2015, 04:25 PM   #40
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Couple of tips in this thread........... http://brickspeed.net/forum/showthread.php?tid=1972
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Old 04-06-2016, 02:49 PM   #41
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Quick update. Scored an uncracked tan dash for the coupe. Also came with 6 bags of packing peanuts. Waiting for some dye from Leatherique to start on the seats ala Testpoint.
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Old 06-18-2016, 10:23 PM   #42
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OK small update. Been having a hard start when the engine gets to operating temp. With the above pressure gauge still installed I could see the rest pressure drop off pretty quickly. As most of the fuel related components have been replaced with new or refurbish to operate correctly that left the accumulator under the car. I could not find the original Bosch part 0438170021. After calling Bosch they said the new replacement number was 043817007. So that is what I bought. First the new part is physically smaller than the old one. So I could not use the OE clamp to secure it in place. A medium size hose was used instead. Also you need to move the part as far forward as possible otherwise the the fitting that connects the acc. to the fuel pump will not line up.
The old part would not disconnect so I disconnected the front hose from the metal line, (15mm line wrench and 14mm on the hose end). Undid the clip holding the small hose to the rear nipple. Forgot to mention you have to remove the 3 12mm bolts hold the carriage plate. You will have to remove the 2 10mm nuts and bolts that hold the fuel in place. Don't disconnect the fuel pump fittings.
It helps to remove the rear right rubber cushion to access the 10mm nut and bolt on that side. Everything went well but at the end when started the car I had a small fuel leak from the nut at the end of the check valve. I guess some things got moved around.
This is where it went down hill. I could not get the nut to tighten. The check valve has an 18mm fitting but you really can't get a good hold because of the wire connections to the pump. Even removing one of the electrical connections it was hard to grab the check valve and tighten the 19mm nut. It also didn't help that I have a torn tendon in my right shoulder so I couldn't exert a lot of force. When I finally did man handle the part the connecting tube broke. Good thing I had a spare.
Still I could not stop the leak. Must have taken the parts on and off at least 3 times. And yes gas will come out off the rear fitting on pump and other places too.What a PIA. Had to get a large container to catch the gasoline.
After several attempts I remembered reading about sanding flat the copper washers and then heating them. SO out came the sand paper and all the copper washers were sanded smooth then heated with a small torch. Reinstalled everything again for the the 100th time and had success. Finally. A 2 hour job at most took the better part of the day. One word of advice when putting it all back together. Wait until you bolt the carriage plate with the fuel pump to the body before you try to pull the rubber cushion through. The fact that it is loose helps putting back that one nut and bolt. And once everything is bolted together it makes it easier to try and push the rubber down through the hole.
Note size difference

Hose clamp to hold the part, make sure it is REALLY tight

Old clamp had a hold that lined up with the bracket so it wouldn't spin around. Can't use the clamp. Also new part has 2 protruding "beads" on it. Hence why the c-clamp needs to be tight otherwise it won't hold.

Just disconnect this rear rubber cushion to access 10mm nut and bolt. And don't put it back until everything is bolted back in place, the 3 12mm bolts.

Time for 2 Alieve.
One more note I can turn the car on and off. Or leave it on for while, turn it off and it will start right up. Pressure gauge holds steady at 40psi then very slowly after a while go down. I'm happy. More testing maybe tomorrow or monday.
sorry for the long post
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Old 06-10-2018, 09:18 AM   #43
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Time to update this thread. Two years since last post.

Surly there has been nothing else in life getting in the way of Bertone restoration.
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Old 06-10-2018, 07:36 PM   #44
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Much has gotten in the way. I'll update the other Bertone thread instead.
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