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Old 05-31-2018, 06:42 PM   #1
DocterHow
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Default 5.3 + CD009 in 242

Hello Turbobricks, this is my first post and project on this forum. I have been a lurker for a while now but I have already started on my project. Last year I built up my first car, a Miata into a nice turbo "streetcar". For this year, my dad and I picked up an 82 242 from the bay area, and had it shipped all the way to us in Iowa. This is our third Volvo and for this one, I want to build my dad and I's dream 242. Here are a couple pictures of the car in it's current state.






The car has no major rust, a slightly misaligned driver's door, faded paint, ugly quad headlights/coffin hood, m46 4 speed, a gutless b21, and faded tan interior. But, most of that will change

I started this build already about a month ago, when we picked up a 5.3 locally off craigslist. After degreasing the engine I decided to take the heads off to look at the engine, since it had been sitting for a while. You won't believe what happened next...



After being a little frustrated, I bough a harbor freight bore scope and picked up an even cheaper 5.3 a few days later with all of its accessories.



The engine has been cleaned up and I will be doing a few mods to the engine. For the transmission, I'll be running a Nissan CD009 from a 2007 G35. Furthermore, I will pick up a set of the STS mounts and the associated Holley oil pan and Hooker manifolds.
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Old 05-31-2018, 08:00 PM   #2
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Pics no worky....
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Old 05-31-2018, 08:23 PM   #3
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Pics no worky....
Thanks for letting me know, .Heic iPhone pictures + google drive hosting doesn't work on turbobricks I guess.
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Old 05-31-2018, 08:31 PM   #4
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Thanks for letting me know, .Heic iPhone pictures + google drive hosting doesn't work on turbobricks I guess.
Please use Imgur or another hosting site and resize to 800x600 like...
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Old 05-31-2018, 09:55 PM   #5
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Nice car!

Please don't molest the commandos.
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Folks on here don't know a good deal when they see it.
how psi stock cna support?

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Old 05-31-2018, 10:05 PM   #6
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Yeah, keep the commandos, or else
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My knob has a big chunk of steel on it
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Old 05-31-2018, 11:08 PM   #7
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big bumpers only

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Old 06-01-2018, 08:42 AM   #8
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Neat!

What CD009 kit are you planning on using? What shifter?

I'm part way through a very similar swap - LH8 (an early alu Gen4 w/o any DOD/AFM/VVT parts) with a Nissan JK41C trans - basically the same as a CD009 but from a G37/370Z.
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Old 06-03-2018, 12:01 PM   #9
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Neat!

What CD009 kit are you planning on using? What shifter?

I'm part way through a very similar swap - LH8 (an early alu Gen4 w/o any DOD/AFM/VVT parts) with a Nissan JK41C trans - basically the same as a CD009 but from a G37/370Z.
I plan on using the Collins adapter kit, and for the shifter I'm unsure. I may use a forward plate mounted shifter as from my estimates, that will be the best off the shelf shifter.
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Old 06-03-2018, 12:09 PM   #10
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Subbed. Looks like a cool project and drivetrain combo.
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Old 06-03-2018, 12:14 PM   #11
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A couple of days ago my transmission came in on a pallet Now I can start ordering some more parts to adapt it to the LS.



Over the past week I completed the engine refresh and did a few upgrades while I was in there. For starters, the engine was cleaned and most of the parts got a fresh coat of paint. I also replaced a few leaking seals/gaskets, replaced the corroded knock sensors, and installed a new waterpump.



However, I didn't do all that work and not add some horsepower. I also installed a "sloppy stage 2" cam (Elgin 1840p) and PAC 1218 valve springs. Here's an artsy shot of new valve springs and valve stem seals.



Then I picked up the Hooker headers and the Holley oil pan locally from Motion Raceworks, and they completed the transformation of this junkyard engine. I even did the valve covers in wrinkle black and swapped to the short oil fill cap.



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Old 06-04-2018, 04:15 PM   #12
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A couple of days ago my transmission came in on a pallet Now I can start ordering some more parts to adapt it to the LS.


Do you know from what model year that tranny came from? It has an external slave so pre-2007 from what I know.
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Old 06-04-2018, 05:03 PM   #13
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I know from experience it can be a little dicey buying a CD009 version specifically - if the sticker is worn off (very common) it can be exceedingly difficult to tell a CD009 from any of the earlier, weaker varieties. In cases where the seller didn't specifically state 'CD009!' (and then usually charge more because 'they know what they have') it was a bit of a crapshoot.

Buying the G37/370 JK40/41 version might be a little easier, because they're all strong, no weak early versions to avoid.

The year the CD00X trans came from might not be the end-all either - many of them were replaced under warranty. Some were replaced with later versions, but before the CD009 was available. So it might be a weak warranty trans. Or the earlier year G35/350 cars might have been warrantied with CD009 or CD00A transmissions.

There are some general guidelines about what the trans is based on the shifter cage but those might be swapped around. And some on the case numbers, but I think those are not specific enough to be sure.
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Old 06-12-2018, 11:57 AM   #14
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IIRC you can eliminate the oil fill funnel completely and install the cap right in the valve cover.
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Old 06-12-2018, 11:59 AM   #15
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IIRC you can eliminate the oil fill funnel completely and install the cap right in the valve cover.
Yep, you just give that ugly neck a solid twist and it will pop off, then the cap fits directly into the valve cover.
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Old 06-17-2018, 07:23 PM   #16
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Quick update while I am stuck in parts waiting limbo.

I have almost all of the transmission parts, except the bell housing. The Collins kit uses a LS style t56 bell housing, and I wish they would've used a 4L60E bell housing. Long story short, local craigslist flaked and I had to order a bell housing off eBay, and am still waiting for it to get here. But, here's what I have:



I'll be using the "stage 1" Collins clutch with a Wilwood 3/4" master and stock f-body t56 slave cylinder. Not pictured is a new JEGS LS1 replacement flywheel I picked up for $90 shipped. Beyond that, I will need a custom shifter for the CD009, but that will wait until I get the engine/trans mocked up in the car.

In the meantime I have been working on stripping the stock 5.3 harness and converting it to standalone. I'm deleting all emissions, auto trans and rear O2 sensors. I'll get some pictures when it's done. Lastly, I painted my manifolds with cheap VHT ceramic paint to prevent rust.

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Old 06-17-2018, 10:31 PM   #17
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Can I ask why you went with that trans? im not familiar with this transmission so im just curious.
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Old 06-17-2018, 10:39 PM   #18
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Can I ask why you went with that trans? im not familiar with this transmission so im just curious.
It's cheap and they can handle a good amount of power. T56's have hit the point of being the go to LS swap manual transmissions and have become expensive. Also, after searching for about 2 months, I can't find any for sale locally at a reasonable price. After doing an excel spreadsheet, the CD009 and associated parts came in at ~$300 cheaper than the cheapest LS style T56 I could find. That's about what I paid for a new cam and valvesprings.
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Old 06-18-2018, 07:20 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by DocterHow View Post
It's cheap and they can handle a good amount of power. T56's have hit the point of being the go to LS swap manual transmissions and have become expensive. Also, after searching for about 2 months, I can't find any for sale locally at a reasonable price. After doing an excel spreadsheet, the CD009 and associated parts came in at ~$300 cheaper than the cheapest LS style T56 I could find. That's about what I paid for a new cam and valvesprings.
+1

I just picked one up at a local junk yard from a 2008 G35. Paid $380 USD for it!
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Old 06-18-2018, 09:09 AM   #20
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I'm sort of thinking I should get a steel bellhousing for mine, instead of the aluminum one. Something, something, exploding flywheels.


I do like how the Collins kit is all stock LS/T56 parts other than the clutch disc. That just makes it easier to maintain in the future.
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Old 06-26-2018, 07:45 PM   #21
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Update Time:

The transmission bellhousing came in, and I got work chopping the trans up and fitting the Collins adapter kit.





Since the stock T56 slave leaves the clutch bleeder in a terrible spot, I picked up a remote bleeder kit.

After the transmission surgery was done, the 242 was put on jack stands, front end dissembled, and the engine/trans pulled out. Side note, I forgot to drain the transmission and spilled its guts out on the driveway







Next, the engine bay needs some love in a few spots with surface rust removal and fresh paint. After looking at Hackster's build, I might have to go for the shaved engine bay look.
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Old 07-01-2018, 09:07 PM   #22
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Time for another update

I went ahead and started removing stuff from the engine bay, and gave the bay a quick pressure wash. While removing stuff, I was somewhat surprised to see the state the engine wiring was in, but the car ran good, being a K-jet B21 and all.



Then, I took off the front bumper/clip to make room for my incredibly short Harbor Freight engine hoist. There's a phallic joke somewhere in that line.



Next, I wanted to test fit the engine and do all the hammer work before the bay gets painted. So, I enlisted the help of my dad to use a BFH and make room for the mighty CD009. Surprisingly, only minimal bashing was needed. Then, we bolted the STS mounts to the engine, bolted on the trans (without the clutch installed), and the combo went in without much fuss.



Here's where the end of the transmission lines up with the motor mounts adjusted to be in the forwardmost position. It looks like a plate mount or a very forward mounted shifter could work.



Also, I will probably have to flip the steering shaft or grind the header, as they are practically touching.



Finally, the last clearance issue is with the tall truck intake manifold. The tabs that mount the plastic "Vortec" cover need to be ground off to make the Coffin hood close, but flathoods are cool. So now I'm on the hunt for a lower profile intake manifold.
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Old 07-01-2018, 09:27 PM   #23
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just buy a round steering shaft from column racing. Its the same ones that STS are selling minus up charge.
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Old 07-01-2018, 09:35 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DocterHow View Post
Also, I will probably have to flip the steering shaft or grind the header, as they are practically touching.


I'm using one of these: http://www.colemanracing.com/Steerin...ned-P4078.aspx
on mine. Flipping does move the fat part of the stock shaft down, but it's still pretty bulky. And at least in my case, the interference was more in the middle, so flipping wouldn't have really done anything.

Last edited by JohnMc; 07-01-2018 at 09:36 PM.. Reason: treed by Aron, only I gave a link!
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Old 07-01-2018, 11:18 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by JohnMc View Post
I'm using one of these: http://www.colemanracing.com/Steerin...ned-P4078.aspx
on mine. Flipping does move the fat part of the stock shaft down, but it's still pretty bulky. And at least in my case, the interference was more in the middle, so flipping wouldn't have really done anything.
something I bought. works like a champ.
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