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Old 05-01-2018, 01:43 PM   #2976
Kjets On a Plane
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Now that you’ve got a new Jurbo, potentially non-hooptie boost control for a “cruise control on/fuel economy setting”, fixed cruise vac leaks and a new throttle cable, will it cruise/drive pleasantly going slow/relaxed/lazily as well as fast?
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Old 05-01-2018, 01:57 PM   #2977
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Your brake booster looks like crap and not worthy of this vehicle.... I think you should over-engineer a replacement ASAP.
If the bolts under the dash weren't such a pain in the ass I think I'd actually get around to fixing it.

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Originally Posted by Kjets On a Plane View Post
Now that you’ve got a new Jurbo, potentially non-hooptie boost control for a “cruise control on/fuel economy setting”, fixed cruise vac leaks and a new throttle cable, will it cruise/drive pleasantly going slow/relaxed/lazily as well as fast?
That's not a bad idea making the boost super lazy with cruise on. hmmm.

The cruise control got heaps better after replacing the o-rings. I can't wait to see how it is with the new throttle cable.

It's actually quite pleasant no matter how you drive it.
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Old 05-01-2018, 05:24 PM   #2978
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My old 850R had circa 370 bhp from it's 2.3, the car I've replaced it with has essentially identical horsepower but from a 5.4 litre V8, what is interesting is that fuel consumption for the V8 is significantly worse - keep out of boost and the 850R was (relatively speaking) frugal.
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Old 05-01-2018, 11:05 PM   #2979
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If the bolts under the dash weren't such a pain in the ass I think I'd actually get around to fixing it.
Am I the only one that finds getting a brake booster out of a 240 super easy?
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Old 05-02-2018, 12:12 AM   #2980
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^No.
1990+ electrically laden USA SRS knee bolster model slows up the show a bit, but good wobble extension and semi-deep 13 and I can have them out in 5 mins, and then take the swivel socket once I can angle the booster toward the passenger side and zap the master out with that and snip the brake lines (junkyard).
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Old 05-02-2018, 10:58 AM   #2981
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I went at it through the gauge cluster opening. The angles made it weird. Turns out I'm just doing it wrong! Derp
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Old 05-02-2018, 11:52 AM   #2982
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Knee bolster out and wobblies is the way to go. I don't miss that about having a late model car.
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Old 05-02-2018, 09:11 PM   #2983
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kjets On a Plane View Post
^No.
1990+ electrically laden USA SRS knee bolster model slows up the show a bit, but good wobble extension and semi-deep 13 and I can have them out in 5 mins, and then take the swivel socket once I can angle the booster toward the passenger side and zap the master out with that and snip the brake lines (junkyard).
I have a 93 and a 3 degree wobble and 2 foot extensions and my 20v dewalt impact makes for quick action.
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Old 05-03-2018, 10:26 AM   #2984
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Another thing checked off the list that has been bugging me for a while. The throttle has always been heavy from extra drag on the throttle cable. The routing combine with age wasn't doing me any favors. I bought a new Gemo cable and shortened it.
Found new barrel ends and dip soldered it on. Turned out really well and the throttle is oh so smooth and light now.
Did you always dislike the heavy feel, or did it only become noticeable when you started driving newer cars regularly? I always liked it. When I briefly used a 960 throttle body on the yoshi adapter, it was SO light that I added an extra wind to the spring in the tb.

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Your brake booster looks like crap and not worthy of this vehicle.... I think you should over-engineer a replacement ASAP.
Not seen, it matches the trunk. Much shame.
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Old 05-03-2018, 11:08 AM   #2985
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Did you always dislike the heavy feel, or did it only become noticeable when you started driving newer cars regularly? I always liked it. When I briefly used a 960 throttle body on the yoshi adapter, it was SO light that I added an extra wind to the spring in the tb.
I think more than heavy it always just felt a little sticky. Having a newer car to compare it to might have led to me noticing it more. I dunno.
I have the same spool and double spring setup that a redblock 240 has so I'd guess the pedal feel is the same? Can't remember really.

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Not seen, it matches the trunk. Much shame.


I bought paint to fix the booster and I'll replace the dumb leaky ford reservoir too.
The project list lengthens.
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Old 05-10-2018, 08:16 PM   #2986
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New hubs arrived


While rolling around under the car I noticed the front universal joint was loose. Volvo specs HD versions of GKN 1300 series U-Joints. I didn't want to pay the $70 price per. Tracked down the Land Rover PN and ordered them from Rovah Farm. $40 each.
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Old 05-11-2018, 03:55 PM   #2987
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Hubs look great. Did they come with studs?
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Old 05-11-2018, 04:03 PM   #2988
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Hubs look great. Did they come with studs?
Yep. Bearing races were already pressed in too.
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Old 05-11-2018, 04:03 PM   #2989
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Yep. Bearing races were already pressed in too.
Seems like a deal. Where'd you get them again?
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Old 05-11-2018, 04:05 PM   #2990
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Skandix.
http://www.skandix.de/en/spare-parts...1033317/?dc=32
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Old 05-11-2018, 04:06 PM   #2991
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Thanks, I'll probably pick some up.

Don't you have ABS though? Just going to re use tone rings?
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Old 05-11-2018, 04:08 PM   #2992
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I should probably test as well. Been having an irritating shimmy for 4 years that all new consumables have not fixed.
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Old 05-12-2018, 04:14 PM   #2993
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Thanks, I'll probably pick some up.

Don't you have ABS though? Just going to re use tone rings?
No ABS but I have ABS struts. Thought I might implement traction control but that's pretty low on the list.
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Old 05-12-2018, 04:27 PM   #2994
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No ABS but I have ABS struts. Thought I might implement traction control but that's pretty low on the list.
Nice. Traction control is pretty cool, but not super necessary. I wonder how VEMS control system compares to Megasquirts.
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Old 05-14-2018, 01:03 PM   #2995
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Originally Posted by Harlard View Post
I should probably test as well. Been having an irritating shimmy for 4 years that all new consumables have not fixed.
Measure with a dial gauge. Don't throw parts at it.
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Old 05-29-2018, 10:40 AM   #2996
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kjets On a Plane View Post
Now that you’ve got a new Jurbo, potentially non-hooptie boost control for a “cruise control on/fuel economy setting”, fixed cruise vac leaks and a new throttle cable, will it cruise/drive pleasantly going slow/relaxed/lazily as well as fast?
Cruise control is PERFECT now. The new cable routing did wonders. Easier to drive at low speeds too.

For giggles I threw an indicator on the rear axle. Found the passenger side axle flange is bent. A certain incident in my high school parking lot might be to blame.


Also found another issue on the front. It wasn't just the hubs causing the shimmy. Here's part of the email I sent to the company that made my adapters.

Quote:
The brake rotor runout on the passenger side wheel was in
excess of 9 thou laterally. I suspected the hubs at first, replaced
those with new ones from the Volvo dealer. After hub replacement the
rotor runout on the passenger side was reduced to 6 thou TIR. TIR at the
hub flange was less than 5 tenths. Well within spec. The passenger side rotor still
had excessive lateral runout though.

I brought both front rotors in to work to be checked on the surface
plate in our QC dept. (I can show you numbers if you want) the rotors
also checked out. Within 5 tenths of each other. I put both adapters
on the surface plate. The drivers side adapter was flat within a thou.
The passenger side exhibited a distinct bend (high spot is along a
straight line across the adapter). It only rocks in one direction. I
measured 6-7 thou of displacement while rocking the adapter back and
forth on the plate.

I put the known flat adapter on the passenger side hub and the rotor
ran true. Less than a thou runout. I installed the bent adapter on the
drivers side and the runout issue in the rotor followed the adapter.
Not the rotor. I’d guess the bent adapter was taking up a good chunk
of lug clamping load and unevenly clamping the rotor, forcing it to
warp.
They were very responsive, I sent the bad adapter to them and they got a replacement made the same day.

This is taking longer than I want but I'm making progress. The vibration has been greatly reduced. I think I should be home free once I get that axle replaced with a straight one.

Last edited by Homer; 05-29-2018 at 02:01 PM..
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Old 05-29-2018, 11:42 AM   #2997
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Who did you get the adapters from?
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Old 06-01-2018, 05:07 PM   #2998
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Incidentally, I have a friend whose fiero was eating wheel bearings—turned out the non-flat laser cut brake caliper adapters were distorting the knuckle/wheel bearing to the point of failure. Resolved itself after lapping the adapters flat.
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Old 06-05-2018, 09:51 AM   #2999
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I wonder how many 240s out there have bent hubs. I'm scared to put a dial indicator on mine, I cant imagine all the dirt roads I drive have been kind to them. You might have gotten the last of the hubs too, that Skandix page says NLA now.

One might be able to make a fixture that fits into the bearing race bores, to put the hubs in a lathe and true up the mounting surface. Would not be able to establish the hub OD, but you might not need too.
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Old 06-19-2018, 03:52 PM   #3000
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Just installed a set of the Kaplhenke Hybrid Torque Arms. The adjustable poly torque rods had to go. No more poly bushings on this car.
Thoroughly impressed with the change.
-Noticeable improvement in axle articulation
-Driveline judder is gone (when disengaging the clutch under load)
-More smootherer
-Driveline is smoother under load
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