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Old 09-16-2015, 07:23 PM   #1
nel621
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Default Project - Georgia Coupe

I decided to start a thread on a car I'm working on. But first I want to thank TBer Tom aka TestPoint. If not for his kindness, generosity and hospitality I would not have this car. Testpoint went above and beyond in helping get the car, first by towing it to his house and then storing it there until the stars aligned I was able to pick it up. Note the car was in georia and I live New York. So a big shout out to TestPoint.
Now for the car. It is an 1981 Volvo 262c Bertone. It is the two-tone version, gold top with bronze sides. The gold paint is in poor condition but most of these are. The bronze paint has suffered from sun fade and a lack of wax. The under carriage is bone dry and no rust. The leather is still soft but faded. A "Leatherique" treatment should bring it back to new condition. The car is a low mileage 3 owner car., though the last owner only put about 800 miles on it. The car is all original with 28,895 miles on the odometer. It does not run and has been parked for about 8 years.
The only plans right now is to get the car running and stopping. If it turns out to be a nice runner then I'll tackle the cosmetics.
Here we are at toms' house loading the car.
 photo Coupe on dolly_zpsodcsjnq5.jpg
There is a back story on how we got the car but I won't go into that right.
Here we are getting gas in Carlisle, Pa. on the trip home.
 photo bringing home the coupe_zps2uluh8w0.jpg
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Old 09-16-2015, 07:42 PM   #2
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My plans are to make it run without sinking to much money into it. I will be using NOS parts that I have been hoarding. Also good used parts, donated parts and when necessary new or rebuilt parts. As soon as I got the car home it went up on jack stands and the gas tank was removed. I did this first only because I had access to a good used tank from a running car that was on its' way to the scrap yard. Wise choice. This is what the sender looked like and the tank interior was worse.
rusty sender photo rusty sender_zpsf8oa6ylr.jpg
The replacement tank had some surface rust of the flat ledges so I wire wheeled the rust of, used some metal prep, primer and paint then 2 cans of undercoat."new" and old photo old and new_zpsnvqulpze.jpg

Inspection of the sender revealed it was in like new condition, the prepump appeared to have been replace at some point, the filter was white and the small rubber hose looked new. I changed the small hose with a NOS one that I had.
When I had removed the " new" tank it was getting dark and late and I had to cut the fuel line with the threaded end. With a heat gun and some other tools along with some sweat I was able to salvage the hose from the old sending unit. Trying to keep thing OE.
finished with hose clamp photo Bertone gas tank 004_zpsh4luepwj.jpg

Next was to replace the main pump. This came by way of Amazon.com. The new Bosch pump is thinner than the old one but comes with a sleeve so it mounts in the OE hold securely. The only other difference is the electrical connections. The OE had a "bullet" like fittings, yellow and white??? The new pumps come with ring terminals that you splice in. I can live with that. I did find a Bosch pump with the OE color coded terminals but it was on ebay via UK and 3x the price of the one i bought. Enough said. Sorry no pics.
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Old 09-16-2015, 07:48 PM   #3
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Next up were the brakes. All the calipers were replaced with rebuilt via AutoZone. I used my lifetime warranty from another Volvo I have and was able to get 4 new ones at no cost. I know, not nice, but. In my parts stash I had new pads and 4 of 6 rubber hoses. The calipers were painted to prevent rust. The rotors went to the wire wheel to remove the surface and their hats were also painted. This completed all of the work under car. So off of the jack stands.
replacing calipers photo Georgia coupe 006_zpsiqbtfelj.jpg
 photo Georgia coupe 002_zpsmses4jyn.jpg
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Old 09-16-2015, 08:09 PM   #4
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This is what the rubber looked liked.
hoses look plugged photo Georgia coupe 006_zpsyiotdooe.jpg
Forgot to mention I removed the proportion valve and cleaned that out too. The car also got NOS ATE master cylinder. Still have a little trouble on one caliper not bleeding but I'll revisit that later.I wanted the car on the ground.
So now comes the important part. The engine compartment. I first removed the radiator to clean it out. It had nice new green antifreeze in it and a visual inspection showed no signs of corrosion that I could see. All the spark plugs were replaced NOS Volvo ones.
Then came the surprise. I went to drain the oil and the first cup of fluid out of the plug was the green antifreeze followed by the old oil, followed by some milkshake substance. Panic set in! photo oil milkshake_zpskojjpsn6.jpg
I refilled the radiator with water. It was suggested to me by TestPoint that I preform a coolant pressure test. I went to my friends' shop and borrow the correct tool to do the test. System held over 20 psi continuous. No hoses burst, radiator didn't spring a leak ( I must say I was concerned). I finished the oil change and moved on.
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Old 09-16-2015, 08:23 PM   #5
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Next up was a do or die moment. I had recharged the old Interstate battery that came with the and installed it. I figured I had nothing to lose. With 5 gals. of fresh gas in the new tank I took a chance and tried to start the car. It sputtered a little and died. I figured it was just just system trying to get back up to pressure with the new pump, fuel filter and the fact that lines had been open. So I tried it again and this time it almost started. Missed it by THAT much! With a little help from my son I removed injectors one by one to see what was happening. I new I was getting fuel and wanted to check how the gas flowing. First injector was a steady stream. Next one had low stream. One did not flow at all. Test time over. Next up was to remove all of the injectors and some how get them to function properly. So off to YouTube for instructions and procedures.
During my search i came upon Mercedessource.com The info was what I was looking for, very accurate, very helpful. Although most of it was geared toward diesel injectors there was a segment on Bosch mechanical gas injectors. Their website also sells the tool used the videos that I liked. It is basically a bottle jack with a gauge, a place to put the cleaner fluid and some fittings. My thought was to try and build it. I decided to just buy one.
 photo injector tool with new gauge_zps7pcnjyes.jpg
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Old 09-16-2015, 08:23 PM   #6
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sorry pic not loading trying again
 photo cleaning injector_zps0nolbigs.jpg
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Old 09-16-2015, 08:35 PM   #7
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So few things about this tool. The pic shows the tool ready to work with the PVR fuel injectors. When I ordered the tool I clicked on the wrong one, it came with 600 psi max gauge. It will work that way but then you are looking at a small portion of the gauge and not the "swing". Next the metal fitting that comes with the tool is made for Mercedes, it is a Mercedes dedicated website. The Mercedes injectors have male threads ( threads on the OUTSIDE) of the injectors, 12x1.5 My injectors have the threads on the INSIDE (female) with an 8mm banjo bolt. I could not find and adapter locally to make it work. What I did was to go to hydraulic hose making place and had a hose made just my type of injector. If you look at the bottle jack, the brass nipple extending from silver T fitting has been replaced. The hose company with all of their stuff did not have a connector that would mate with original nipple.
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Old 09-16-2015, 08:40 PM   #8
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The hose is made of high psi material rated at 600 psi. with one end having a crimped on banjo fitting. All of the connections are machine crimped. I also had them make a hose with one end having a fitting that fits the brake calipers. I'll be using the tool to push stuck brake calipers pistons out in an attempt to rebuild some old calipers I have laying about. It really does work! I tried it out on a super rusty caliper where the pistons would not budge and this thing with the 600 psi gauge did the job. But that is another story. Here are the hoses.
 photo new hoses_zpss0q501ur.jpg
 photo fuel injector and brake caliper_zpsa32u1u6k.jpg
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Old 09-16-2015, 08:53 PM   #9
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So how did I use the tool. First I put diesel fuel in the cup, not as volatile as gas. I slowly pumped up the gauge to see at what psi the injector would open. I also took note as to the spray pattern. And finally noted if the injector held pressure. 5 of my injectors failed miserably. And the last one did not hold pressure. Most had a dribble not a spray and one did not open at all. After making notes and emptied the cup and added paint thinner. Now with RAPID pumping I was pushing the the paint thinner through as fast as possible. I stopped every now and then to check spray pattern, at what psi they were opening and if they would hold pressure.In short order 3 injectors started to work properly. They would atomize very finely at around 43-50 psi with small chirp sound and would hold rest pressure at about 40 psi. This was good. The other required overnight soaking in the paint thinner. Upon retesting spray pattern was good but they were still leaking. Not leaking any fluid mind you but just not holding pressure. The pressure tester came with a neat little brass "tool". photo 3 injectors OK_zpshanjqiqu.jpg
 photo brass tool_zpscmuveeg2.jpg
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Old 09-16-2015, 08:54 PM   #10
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double post

Last edited by nel621; 09-16-2015 at 11:02 PM.. Reason: double post
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Old 09-16-2015, 09:02 PM   #11
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With this brass "tool" I am able to gently lift the tiny valve at the tip of the injector. This helps in getting more cleaning fluid in the tight spot. You can also use to gently lift the valve,and rotate injector there by cleaning the "seat" that the valve sit on. Once again you can only use brass and go slowly and gently. All of this info and technique was on the Merecedessource videos. I have to report that now my other two injectors are spray right and holding pressure.
So all I have left is one more injector that is still soaking and I think will come around, yeah!
So that is it for now. If all goes well the injectors will installed by the weekend and then time to turn the key again.
PS I also had the tip of the cold start injector in paint thinner for few days , just in case.

All comments welcomed.
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Old 09-16-2015, 09:23 PM   #12
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Default Comment . . .

Nelson has extensive experience in restoring old Volvo's and I am sure that this thread will be a reference document for lots of 'how to' information.

Everyone with a old car waiting on restoration should subscribe to this thread.
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Old 09-16-2015, 09:25 PM   #13
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Tom, don't over sell it.
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Old 09-16-2015, 10:26 PM   #14
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Haha^

Great to see a beautiful car getting the love it deserves! Loves how well you are going through the car, it's always fun doing the pre-checklist before starting a car for the first time in a decade! Even more fun when the problems pop up one at a time as you goes through it. This car will be incredible when you are done with it though! How much does one acquire a car like this for to make it worth such an extensive journey (that goes without saying that every time me and the wife go on a Volvo trip we have a blast)!

Interested to know if you figured out your sludge mud issue? Head gasket? Did I just say what you have been avoiding saying!?
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Old 09-16-2015, 11:07 PM   #15
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Not sure what caused the sludge. I'm hoping maybe condensation issue. Pressure test showed no sign of head gasket failure. The car is a 20 footer, looks good from a distance. If all works out it will be third in line for paint behind the other two Bertones. But that will have to wait for a while. I really need to finish the 79 first.
 photo IMG_20141012_144705_042_zps7a443cfa.jpg


Never ever attempt to do 3 cars at one time!
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Old 09-17-2015, 06:55 AM   #16
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Never attempt to do TWO cars at a time!
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Old 09-17-2015, 08:02 AM   #17
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Did you have to clean yours this way Tom?
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Old 09-17-2015, 12:54 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nel621 View Post
Not sure what caused the sludge. I'm hoping maybe condensation issue. Pressure test showed no sign of head gasket failure. The car is a 20 footer, looks good from a distance. If all works out it will be third in line for paint behind the other two Bertones. But that will have to wait for a while. I really need to finish the 79 first.
 photo IMG_20141012_144705_042_zps7a443cfa.jpg


Never ever attempt to do 3 cars at one time!
Crazy! Can't imagine what it could be without it being something major like a head gasket!

I here you on the multiple projects! I have too many to count! Where do I begin, I should just sell the 1993, make a few grand to put towards the other project cars, but I just don't see the point! Hoarders ganna hoard! I need to just part out the turbo wagon and GT and be done with them!

Last edited by Old Iron; 09-17-2015 at 07:04 PM..
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Old 09-17-2015, 03:51 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TestPoint View Post
Never attempt to do TWO cars at a time!


Great thread! Subscribed.
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Old 09-17-2015, 04:42 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M.H. Yount View Post
Did you have to clean yours this way Tom?
If you are asking about the fuel system I ended up replacing the entire thing. Saved the gas cap. Tank was rusted beyond repair. Rust destroyed the lift and pressure pumps requiring replacement. Rust clogged the fuel distributor and required rebuild . . . twice. Rust clogged the CPR and was rebuilt two or three times, I forget. The injectors were so rusty that they were not usable after cleaning 3 times on the factory Bosch cleaning equipment.

See here: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showpo...1&postcount=91

If you were referring to the clogged brake line I only had the rubber hose to the left rear that had came apart internally. Replaced and flushed lots of clear fluid.
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Old 09-17-2015, 05:55 PM   #21
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Referring to injectors....your reply jogged memory. I remember all the replacement parts now...
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Old 09-19-2015, 10:57 AM   #22
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Quite the project!

Holler if I can point you in the right direction with things.
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Old 09-19-2015, 02:45 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by JohnLane View Post
Quite the project!

Holler if I can point you in the right direction with things.
Much appreciated.
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Old 09-20-2015, 12:34 PM   #24
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Update
Earlier I had posted a pic of brass tool for cleaning the tips of the injectors. As you may or may not know the tip of the injector has tiny valve stem in it with a spring, very similar to an engine valve stem and spring. The stem has to sit flush in the seat to prevent the fuel from leaking out in dribbles in drops. The pic is to help others understand how I used it. You gently lift the stem off of the seat and rotate the injector trying to clean any small traces of varnish that may impede the stem from seating flush. The other end of the tool can also be used to clean around the seat and the other area of the injector. Hope the pic helps. photo fuel injectors brass tool_zpsfu3q5xby.jpg
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Old 09-20-2015, 12:59 PM   #25
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And now for the really good news! I wasn't happy with how the injectors were spraying so they got one more cleaning with the brass tool and the pump bottle. This time I filled the container with brake clean fluid. One note to everyone. Do this outside, the fumes from the diesel, painter thinner and brake clean will give you headache and worse. A good respirator is best. I have one but got lazy and didn't use it and yes I started to get a headache.
Now with the brake cleaner in the pump tool I put all the injectors through the test again, fast pumping to quickly push the chemical through the injector. This gave me a satisfactory atomization on all of the injectors. There were no dribbles or drips, leaks. The hold pressure was around 40 psi on some and less on others with the injectors losing hold pressure very slowly. I can't tell if it was the injectors or maybe the brass fitting on the tool. I think I forgot to wrap the threads in teflon tape so maybe I had small air leak. But I had no fluid leak which is what I was after. Anxious to get moving and satisfied to my liking I decided to reinstall the injectors. Got everything buttoned up and gave the key a turn. Some hard cranking for nothing. Keeping in mind that there is very little gas in the car I tried again. This time it coughed and sputtered but no go. Sensing I was getting close I gave it one more try and it started. Feathered the gas pedal a little to keep things going and it finally smoothed out. IT RUNS! I have 2 dash lights on one is the SOND light and the other is brake failure. I think I know the brake failure one. Need to figure out what the Sond is all about. Anyone know?
So throwing caution to the wind I decided to back out of the driveway. First it didn't move. Duh! had a block wood behind one tire. Then backing up and using the hand brake I made it out. Leaving my street I need to go uphill a bit and the car wouldn't go. Well the only fliud i forgot to check was tranny fluid. Ran back into the garage, found a bottle of fluid and a funnel and topped it up. IT MOVES! With no plates, no brakes took it for a short drive. Shifts smoothly, engine sounds strong, no loud engine cam noise. Went to get some gas and came back. Very happy. Next up is to change the oil and filter again. This time it gets Mobile 1 synthetic and drain the radiator of the water and add antifreeze.
It's looking like this car will get a cosmetic make over in the future. Now to get the other 81 coupe running.
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