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Old 06-10-2018, 10:42 AM   #26
Mbeas96
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I could definitely see the engine rocking in 1st. Lots o torque! Ill have to look into getting a small camera I can put under there, but ill be driving it today for at least 10 miles, so we will see. Hopefully since I have hd motor mounts with less than 10k and a hd trans mount with less than 5k miles, along with that damper it won't hit...

But if it does, solid hockey puck motor mounts next?
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Old 06-10-2018, 06:22 PM   #27
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I drove it a little today, not to much, but I did get into boost a good bit in 1st and didn't hear or feel anything abnormal. (Like the engine hitting the brace) but I will say that you can feel a difference with the brace, the car feels more stable around bends. Its more fun to drive. And when you add the damper as well, you can REALLY feel the engine vibrations. When I start the car I can feel the engine vibrations in the steering wheel.

Since its tying the engine together with the suspension, by the damper that's connected to the strut brace, it should keep the engine movement to a minimum. Even at the expense of some vibrations at the wheel, I think imma keep it on there just to keep my hydraulic motor miunts from bouncing around too much and wearing out early

Plus another wash, and decided to clean the engine bay. No good in having a newly painted reblock if its dirty!






I need to look into camera options...getting tired of posting pics with half of the shot glared by the sun
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Old 06-19-2018, 03:06 PM   #28
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My vacation started after work Friday! I'm off for 10 days straight, which means lots of nothingness! And also alot of tinkering with the car. I have a couple projects I could start, install the turbo cam (without a adj timing gear...in an auto), work on my 3 inch exhaust, I have almost everything needed for the electric fan conversion, but to stay cheap, I chose the wasted spark setup. I have everything BUT a mounting plate. (There slacking next door) so for the time being I will use some heavy duty zip ties to secure it to the strut brace. They say rated up to 150lbs tensile strength, hopefully 6 will be good enough...

Since it was fathers day Sunday, the family and I went over to my brothers to grill out and let the kids play. While over there, I pulled my ezk out and we got to work.
I chose 20 gauge wire, but if I were to do it again I would use 22. Just makes soldering onto the tiny points easier.



Working along...



My brother had some 4 prong male and female plugs that work very well for this setup, so drilling the ezk box to fit it.





All soldered together...





So the days coming to an end, we enlarged my brothers air filter shield to fit his 3" AMM, and I'm throwing my now wasted spark ezk back in and hopefully drive away with no problems. Running on the stock coil and distributer of course.

Well nope. It cranked, but would not fire. So I put in a spare black box ezk and drove home. Broke open the gold box to find out me and my brother rushed and put the 5v onto the wrong pin, so a quick fix and went to test. Fired right up, awesome. Now a lot more work to do.

Took the box back out and hot glued everything in place so nothing funny happens in the future.





Now onto the engine bay. I ran the wires out the cab and to the left fender where the stock ignition module is. Covering the long runs of wires with some plastic tubing, solder, heatshrink, and in some spots I threw a layer or two of electrical tape to be sure. Wires go from the fender along the strut brace and to the coil.







I just put the j702 module where the stock one was, with some new thermal paste, the plan, as is everybody's I assume, is to use the j702 for the tach, since it has its own spot. Well mine didnt work. The red/white wires from the original module didnt work for me. So connecting the old module back up and leaving it hanging will provide my tachometer.



I guess I got a dud from the jy?
Id say looks pretty clean for my standards...cant wait to get the mounting plate on.

Oh yeah, a new set of plug wires since all of mine broke coming out the distributor





Now its all finalized I go to test drive. (I definitely wired it up and started it before soldering/heatshrink) but since I had to keep my stock module for my tach, I used the power from my resistor pack bypass to power my new module. I dont think the injectors liked that very much. My afrs were going 10 to 16 while cruising and car felt like it was missing on load. So I stole power from my coil..well the red/white wire works for power, but if its not connected to my old coil then the tach wont work...

For now my power is coming from the old coil. But when I want to rid the car of the coil, where should I get power from and still be able to keep my tach?

But after that, I drove 10 miles, car feels nice, afrs are solid like they were with the stock ignition system in. The occasional miss/rich spike at cruise is still there. I guess the ignition system is crossed out at the least. But now, wasted spark!

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Old 06-23-2018, 12:35 PM   #29
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So I have a rough cold start, its been there since the engine has been installed. Its not gotten better, and has not gotten worse. I honestly dont think much of it, it happens when it sits for a long period of time. It levels out within a minute or two, ( I'm in a thread in maintenance&performance) so I was going to stop by my brothers to borrow his borescope. To look inside the plug holes for signs of a leaky headgasket, well I also grabbed his shim kit and decided to put in the IPD turbo cam.

First, I looked inside the plug holes, well the scope didnt fit inside unfortunately...but I could see pretty well as it had a nice camera and light. And I did not see anything out of the ordinary. So I'm assuming, that is not the cause of my rough running while cold. Phew...now time to carry on..

Stock T cam.


T cam out and dizzy too


One of the three times the cam was installed.


The plug and block off plate. I used a light coat of gasket maker goop on the plug and bolted the plate on.




Looks good without the distributor! Lots more room!


As I write this I'm waiting for the gasket material to dry, I used it also on the corners of the valve cover. I started it for a second after I put everything back together just to be sure it fires up. It did. No problem with timing, thank gawd. I cant wait to drive it! Bout to whoop on some moostangs now!

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Old 06-23-2018, 05:25 PM   #30
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Well, I drove it and it was pretty terrible. It ran smooth, revved nice and loud...alot different than the t cam. But it did not have power. I thought I just had to let the computer learn, since I reset the ecus, but I decided to check back thru. First thing first, put engine to TDC, I used the screwdriver in the spark plug hole method, found TDC of cylinder 1 fairly easily, and looked at my cam sprocket, which is one tooth forward...damn

Well tension off, belt slipped off cam gear, cam gear turned one tooth backward and belt reinstalled, tension let off. Started right up, just like before. But now, now theres power! I only gave it about 4 psi, but you can immediately tell the difference. I'm glad I didnt let it ride and hope to computer would adjust. Now to let it learn, and just drive

Next mod/upgrade will for sure be intercooler. I'm looking at the klracing one that is a direct replacement. So a little time to save some monies and it'll be on the way. But in the mean time I have to deal with a popping that recently made itself audible in my front right wheel. (Thinking balljoint? But havent checked yet) plus an interminnent ignition switch. Its aggravating at the least to have to jump the starter solenoid every now and again.
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Old 06-24-2018, 11:21 AM   #31
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...

But now, now theres power!

...
Lol.

I think everyone has messed up timing the belt at one point or another. Have you wound it up yet? Curious what you think about low end loss and if you want to bother with an adjustable gear.
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Old 06-24-2018, 07:10 PM   #32
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Now that ive driven it a little bit, I dont think the low end has changed much. Maybe it doesnt pull like mad till 3k, but I feel like the engine revs easier, and doesnt sound like its going to explode, so getting to 3k takes less time. Maybe not, but my butt says I'm okay without an adjustable gear right now. Plus, round gears are expensive...

My aw71 shifts at like what...5800? So that's what it revs too, and its awesome. It definitely pulls till shift. I have revved it in 1st on the shifter till a little past 6k, but I dont think ill keep doing that..overall, I think its a great upgrade, even for the autotragic.
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Old 06-26-2018, 08:22 PM   #33
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I hate the interstate. And big rocks.





So, a free windshield replacement will be in my soon future...
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Old 07-01-2018, 01:41 PM   #34
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Got this cool do88 filter to turbo hose from my brother!



A little persuading to get this thing out, then cut the lip at the bottom down to get it back in



Looks so much better, and definitely no collapsing hose now!



I now owe him a non egr set of manifolds. Thats nothing for what he has given me (including a set of non-egr manifolds that are on my car now...). So a junkyard trip on Saturday, and there was a N/A 94 940, so no exhaust manifold and it had egr...but I got this nice looking nissens from it (looks a lot better than my current one) Its way bigger. And thinner.



It also interferes with the following: oil cooler, charcoal canister, and intercooler. And possibly some plastic air flow director things...shouldnt be to difficult to switch those around.
But it will help the efan conversion, as I will not have to chop up the shroud. Plus bigger radiator for those Charleston summer stop and go traffic.

So my brother has the mid-mount intercooler until I get a klracing one. I have to look into gathering the parts necessary to swap to the water cooling oil cooler instead of the air cooler. Plus now is the time to get new hoses for the mid mount intercooler.

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Old 07-06-2018, 03:53 PM   #35
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Went back to the N/A 940 at the yard since I didnt realize the front few peices of trim behind the grill were different. So I went and scavenged the lower radiator supports, two upper peices of trim, and some air flow directors. Also grabbed the knock sensor, hoping it will solve my random rich stumble/misfire while cruising.

Got this the other day (finally), 12 gauge steel and they're going to powder coat it a textured black. Then ill be drilling the holes needed.



I got these in the mail the other day!



So in less than 30 minutes my dash lights are now LEDs









I chose cool white, will update with pics when I get a few shots at night.

I also removed my "anti-lock" warning light, because it never seems to stay away...I've cleaned the wheel sensors, checked fuses, and the ABS system works. (Almost hit a deer one morning) so for now, no warning light, no problem.

Almost forgot! Found this nifty thing on the 940 mounted next to the fuse panel. Snagged that along with some other various fuses and relays.

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Old 07-06-2018, 04:41 PM   #36
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I'm sure it's easy but you'll have to show me how to pull the gauge cluster one day. And LED dash lights will be one of the best mods you do. I love mine. It really modernizes the interior.
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Old 07-06-2018, 05:01 PM   #37
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Its definitely different in a 940, at the jy I couldn't figure it out just messing around. In the 740, there are two plastic covers where the dimmer switch and another toggle is, under those are 2 Phillips head screws, then the cluster literally just pulls right out. A straight steering wheel and blinker/wiper arms down helps a lot.

I'm now excited to drive to work in the dark mornings. It'd be cool to do the dash trim lights and door switches. Its definitely cheap enough to just buy a couple leds without passing it through the girlfriend..
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Old 07-06-2018, 09:35 PM   #38
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And here it is! I love already
And now I can actually see my fuel gauge at night!



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Old 07-09-2018, 04:12 PM   #39
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Wow, those gauges look great!
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Old 07-09-2018, 09:44 PM   #40
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Wow, those gauges look great!
Thanks! Definitely worth the 16 bucks it took to get it that way! Easiest mod done yet. With so little time to do (in the 740 at least) everyone should do it.
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Old 07-14-2018, 10:56 PM   #41
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Another weekend, more time to mess with the car. I grabbed some cans of krylon satin black rattle paint from wally world for my bumpers. Also grabbed some rustoleum grill paint, intended for my turbo housing...but I found out I got the wrong stuff. So that'll be used on my nissens endtanks and under the hood trim peices instead.





I was kinda nervous about the rattle can paint, but I've seen good turnouts from others, so i cleaned both bumpers very well with car wash soap, and then degreaser. I used less than 2 big cans on both bumpers. I think they turned out well.

I went ahead and did the grill also.







It seems that a PO painted the bumper before...and left overspray from poorly taped areas. Ill try to touch it up with some mineral spirits soon.



I have been porting out my straight housing after work for the last week and am almost done. Its substantially larger where the turbo meets the manifold. Also ill finish opening up where the dp bolts to, as im hoping to get a vband welded on. I touched the wastegate hole some, but not much. Imma try to open it a hair more for good measure.







Junkyard trip this morning, found another NA 940...but this was a wagon, with third row seating! And in the color I will switch my interior to soon enough! Cracked Leather sucks.



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Old 07-28-2018, 03:14 PM   #42
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As the weather is getting hotter, I've been less and less inclined to mess with the car.
As for now I say, small changes that would be necessary are the only things to be done until the heat calms down.

Oil change later today, probably a wash too.

I also got these a couple weeks ago...



I took my time drilling the holes for everything..but its finally done!



I just went to the hardware store down the road, found "spacers" (in not really sure what they are, but they work as spacers) about 15 mm in length, bolts to go thru the spacers and into the coupling nuts I had previously installed onto my valve cover studs. Also some bolts and nuts to attach the coil pack to the plate.

It is VERY close to touching the valve cover where the "cheeks" poke thru from the coil. But they'll never move, so it should be good to go. (Ill end up redoing the way the spark plug wires run...messy messy)





Finally get to put the engine damper back on! Pulled something in my shoulder doing so...that shock is stiff!



So, from now until it cools off outside its going to be parts hoarding. Particularly intercooler hoses for the mid tank IC, radiator hoses, temp switches for the electric fan, vband welded onto my straight flange. 3 in exhaust coming soon...

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Old 08-13-2018, 04:22 PM   #43
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Can you let us know what bulbs you used on the cluster?
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Old 08-13-2018, 07:56 PM   #44
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sorry about that, I thought I posted the link.
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=252851

I used that guide, I was kind of confused when he started saying buy 2 bulbs for 90+ or what not, then said 1 will be fine... well I bought two of the T1.5- CWHP. but you can use different colors, I chose cool white. those are for the two blinkers. the next 4 194-CW5-CBT bulbs are the wedge type bulbs. I chose the $3.95 a bulb again in cool white. those will light up the cluster. that's it. AGAIN, you can chose any color you like, you can also chose to buy more expensive bulbs.

when installing, the wedge shape ones dont matter how you put them in, they are not polarized (no negative and positive) but the twist and lock ones, they are kind of a pain in the ass, but they'll be fine are polarized. so plug them in, test it, then put it back together. you might have to switch them around.
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Old 08-19-2018, 02:24 PM   #45
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I finally built up the will and energy to make a "pressure tester" for my intake system. A trip to the local Lowe's last weekend and I have everything I need.

I bought:
Oateys 3 in pressure test cap (plumbing section)
This cap comes with a large wingnut which won't work if you put the valve stem in it..so I just got a regular bolt at Lowe's instead.
Some jb weld
and Lowe's didn't have this but the tractor supply store did- a core housing for a tubed tire (Schrader valve)

I drilled a hole very close in size of the o ring on the valve stem, then shoved it thru the top section of the pressure cap. JB weld applied liberally to assure it wont pop out under ~30 psi. the bottom portion of the cap I drilled a hole bigger than the valve stem, so when the pressure cap is tightened the valve stem wont stop the two halves of the cap from closing together.




At the smallest point the pressure cap is just shy of 2.75 inches, which actually fits the stock hose nicely, then you tighten the bolt down to expand the rubber middle of the pressure cap. I'm hoping it will expand to 3 in and will work on the 3 in AMM hose thats on my brothers car.

I left it to dry overnight and went to test this morning. I plugged it in where the AMM would usually go, I pulled the pcv hose off the same hose the cap went in and plugged it a tapered bolt wrapped in Teflon plus a hose clamp. I also pulled the small vac line that runs from the IM to the breather box and plugged that so absolutely no air will get pressurized into the crankcase.



ugh. this also happened when trying to remove the small vac line from the pcv hose. another problem for another day. jb weld will fix all...(lol ill track one down this week)



I set the regulator on my small compressor to around 28ish psi and plugged it up to the cap. first test, my tapered bolt blew out the turbo-amm hose...tightened hose clamp more. Test two, I can hear the leaks. I sprayed some soapy water and what do ya know, I found 2 leaks instantly. One is very obvious and coming out the cbv from the top left corner. another from the first charge hose from the turbo to intercooler. With a little more investagating I found some leakage around the valve that presses into the turbo-amm hose for the pcv system.


(air was very loudly coming out the top left bolt, hopefully its gone now)

I removed the cbv, cleaned it and used some permatex gasket goop on the edges and reinstalled. also put some on the washers of the bolts. I repositioned and retightened the charge hose and that leak stopped. Finally a hose clamp around the pcv valve thing and that one quit. now to wait and hope the cbv isnt leaking.


(for as long as ive owned the car, this thing has never had a hose clamp. hopefully this fixes some problems)

I also liberally sprayed my whole intercooler, since its still stock I had some suggestions the high pressure would cause the seams to start leaking. Well after like 20 minutes of spraying soapy water all over it, no air bubbles...
can't wait to drive it around and see if my random stumbles are gone!

Finally got this thing back on, after being off for about a year...



almost forgot...safelite is scheduled to come replace my windshield at work on Tuesday. gonna love the new glass!

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Old 08-19-2018, 02:38 PM   #46
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Good little write up. Glad it worked out well. I'm excited to hopefully be boost leak free before long also. My turbo to amm hose doesn't have a clamp on that little thing either...
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Old 08-19-2018, 02:50 PM   #47
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Good little write up. Glad it worked out well. I'm excited to hopefully be boost leak free before long also. My turbo to amm hose doesn't have a clamp on that little thing either...
I found a decent writeup not long ago, and I believe he uses the same cap. but all the pics were gone. and I feel like it wasnt very clear on which hoses to block off, but then again, I'm really not sure if I tested inside the intake manifold, or if it stopped at the throttle butterfly valve, or at the IAC. I can mess with it more another time, like pulling a small vac line off the intake manifold to see if air is making it there.

I didn't think before, but it is after the AMM, so if air goes in there the AMM wouldn't meter it. (I would think anyways..)
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Old 08-19-2018, 09:21 PM   #48
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Regarding your pressure test of the hose between your AMM and the compressor inlet, that is a "suction hose" and will only see various vacuum levels to at most atmospheric pressure (0 psig). The leaks you found in that hose at 28 psig won't exist in normal ops. HOWEVER you could have vacuum leaks that would throw off your AMM measurements..... you do want all air "metered" so the LH2.4 can do it's job.

I like you homegrown leak solution from Lowes..... I had a machinist buddy lathe a couple for me and we put a quick disconnect chuck into one end.

Don't forget.... you can actually pressure test your engine as well! If you pull the plugs and turn the engine at the harmonic balancer bolt, you will find a spot where all the intake valves will be closed "enough" to get pressure in the intake track. Don't be surprised if your throttle body leaks at the shaft... mine did! If and when you find that, I'll tell you how to fix that leak.
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Old 08-20-2018, 06:53 PM   #49
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just thinking about my pressure tester, would the inside of the intake system actually see the 28 psi that I put thru that tiny valve? or just a portion of that since the inlet valve is so small compared to the system?

edit. I guess it would build to 28 psi, right?

also, would I have to open the throttle or do anything different when I go to test the engine? same hose to put the "pressure tester" ?

I never did actually see if there was air in the manifold, so I'm not positive I even pressurized that.
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Old 08-20-2018, 08:51 PM   #50
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Your boost gauge in the cabin is reading what the intake sees; I doubt you have the boost set that high - 1.3 bar (approx. 20 psig) should be all you ever try to generate.... higher than that and the gains are lost by the high temps, detonation, etc. etc.

The entrance to your compressor is vacuum, negative pressure. Until the compressor wheel does work on the air, you won't see anything above 0 psig.... and realistically it's negative (slight vacuum).

Trust me - you need to pressurize that entire intake mani, right up to the valves.... many boost leaks to be found there.
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