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Adj. Torque Rods DIY

MadDog_945

Våga Vägra 8V
Joined
Apr 25, 2006
Location
Lower Saxony
Hey guys,

im in the process of getting a partslist for DIY torque arms.

Do you think 42.4mm x 2,5mm wall of 1.4301 (316L) and m16 uniball with left/right thread is enough to withstand the forces or should i better use bar stock?


And.. does anyone have experienced harsh driving behavior or rattling/rumbling with uniballs in the torque rods?
 
A torque rod with rod ends (uniballs) on both the body connection and the axle connection will transmit more vibration than a torque rod with a rubber bushing on one or both connections. That being said, eliminating the rubber bushings eliminates a lot of axle movement under accel/decel. It is up to you on how much vibration/noise is "too much" for your application/tolerance. Depending on what your goals are, you can also make a hybrid adjustable torque rod with a stock bushing on the body connection and a rod end on the axle connection. This will still allow adjustability but maintain the vibration isolation between the axle and body.

Ref: https://www.bneshop.com/collections/240/products/240-hybrid-adjustable-torque-rod (for a 240, but similar idea could be applied to a 940)
 
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Yeah.. maybe it is better to have at least one rubber to the chassis left, even because it is a roadracer not a trackracer ;)

So, uhm.. do you thin 42.4x2.5mm wall would be enough to hold the forces?
 
I ordered all of my parts from speedwaymotors.com

They have held up just fine to lots of 1/4 mile launches on slicks and hard street miles. I used just thier basic joints and rods without any issues.

RearSubFrame5.jpg



The worse part was finding spacers and adapters to size it down for the m14 bolts.

Overall not a lot of money saved over buying the rods from Ben.
 
I used 30mm od tubing, 2mm wall. Seamless tubing, just steel, not stainless. I'd avoid stainless altogether in suspension parts. Don't see the need and it's more brittle than steel (in general, when welded yadda yadda, I'm just paranoid and seen too many things break).
M16 rod ends are fine, good size, used that size too and gave me room to make good spacers.
If you weld stuff, get weldable hardware, I would not just weld a regular nut on something. Some good bungs or the right lower strength hardware that doesn't suffer as much from loss of heat treatment or new heat treatment by welding. McGill has weld bungs and stuff.

The hybrid tq rods are nice. Like the compromise between full heim and poly. Poly in the stock 240 ones wasn't a good idea my car was already strong enough to ovalise the ends of the rods with poly in them. The ipd ones are less than ideal to adjust and I hear they have a tendency to loosen (adjustment).
 
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Thx ! :) have you fabbed the spacers like half through the hole or just a tube through the ball and then spacerdiscs over that?
 
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