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Microsquirt 16v+t

You misinterpreted what I said. I have no idea the sequence of events that led to the destruction of your last motor. I just wouldn't build a serious turbo engine without running forged pistons. That was the context of my post. "Cheaper in the long run".
 
I started with "Just to clarify" , in case of any confusion. No harm meant, no offense taken. No offense meant.

As for your opinion "Cheaper in the long run". That's both correct/ incorrect depending on your/ my perspective. Most of the reason why i start with junk, before i get serious, and go the "cheaper in the long run route"is to acquire data, and find weak parts that need to be upgraded. Its a technique i have used for many many years, and its very effective. Instead of destroying all new parts, i use junk first, gather data, then rebuild it all the right way, to the limiting factor ,at times, of my personal Budget.

Forged pistons still would have been completely ruined in my last explosive block cracked scenario. Instead of costing me $214 for h beam rods, the damage would have been $1000 or more with new goods. Just for an example.

Now if i had built it all up and took it to a machine shop and had everything checked out before i slapped my grind ed pistons in, it would still be running right now-and that block would have been thrown away-never to be used. Instead i choose to hold out on the pistons and the machine work,and half ass the last one, and it got me by 8-10 more months to save for bigger and better things. Because- i wasn't ready for the big jump in cost for the right block, and all the right machine shop work with said block, and all new little bits, gaskets bearings. I still came out on the cheap end, while eating twice the labor to save the money.(a risk i am willing to take, i do all the labor- so cool) Perspective is everything, and we all have our personal time constraints, and priorities.At the time- i threw the last one together, it was not a priority to make it last a few years.. Well fast forward to now, priorities have changed. So to answer your "cheaper in the long run" statement, Yes..... and ..... No. acquired data is everything to me. And i am that much closer.

No harm meant, no hard feelings. Having said that, after being kicked off this forum for a few days, for MY improperly executed defense against trolling, that you Directly had involvement with , I'm not mad at ya, and i hope we can still be volbros.
 
Pretty picture heavy, nothing really amazing here to see, just kind of documenting for myself. Something cool i did realize today, a mk3 supra 7mgte oil adapter kit fits the redblock. So along with my aftermarket 7mgte radiator from fluidyne, and my mk4 supra precision power intercooler, i now have another supra part. I absolutely abhor changing the oil filter in this car. I will have this problem no longer!! I think the kit was bought off http://www.driftmotion.com IIRC. Other pics are plastigauge-ing the rod bearings, both on crank and rod caps, and cleaning the t70 turbo up .

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You didn't draw and penises or random things on the rods or Pistons? Bummer.
When I run overheads on truck I use a silver sharpe and instead of doing a dot to mark the rocker done I'll write boobies rock or other random crap.
 
Thanks Lord Athlon! LOL at dieselboy. By the time I was done rebuilding that head I wanted to write cuss words all over it. I spent almost twice the time rebuilding that head, robbing another for parts, as i did building the complete bottom end. And my hands feel the burn from that valve spring compressor tool.

Its time to motivate by watching "power block", then back to fixing this silly oil leak and go for a drive and shake it down. I think that i will not make it through the show, and end up ditching to work on Volvo. ;)
 
Well it did rain, but before it did, i was able to fix the oil leak and put about 40 miles on her. Here is a few videos. So far i am very happy with the part throttle results . Engine is very "alive" much more crisp and very quiet at idle , no more bucket noise.

https://www.facebook.com/kris.d.weldy/videos/10206000879732628/

Part throttle wheel spin in first and a touch in second.

https://www.facebook.com/kris.d.weldy/videos/10206000882652701/

In auto tune , this highlighted block gets so rich car falls on its face from dead stop. Not sure why this happens, but i just deal with it and fix it back to where it was. Turbo spools really quick. Need to put 70mm on now.

https://www.facebook.com/kris.d.weldy/videos/10206000887532823/
 
Well it did rain, but before it did, i was able to fix the oil leak and put about 40 miles on her. Here is a few videos. So far i am very happy with the part throttle results . Engine is very "alive" much more crisp and very quiet at idle , no more bucket noise.

https://www.facebook.com/kris.d.weldy/videos/10206000879732628/

Part throttle wheel spin in first and a touch in second.

https://www.facebook.com/kris.d.weldy/videos/10206000882652701/

In auto tune , this highlighted block gets so rich car falls on its face from dead stop. Not sure why this happens, but i just deal with it and fix it back to where it was. Turbo spools really quick. Need to put 70mm on now.

https://www.facebook.com/kris.d.weldy/videos/10206000887532823/

I found autotune to actually make my tune worse the few times I used it.
 
It always makes my tune worse within the first few blocks like i showed above, but does really good when it hits boost. Not quite sure why it does this, other than maybe, my calibration is off a tad but for my coolant sensor so it may be trying to compensate? I dunno, I just usually turn it on when I'm boosting and then turn it off when I'm not. Then i will manual tune with My Young lady driving in all the other areas. This is also where data logs shine.
I did the ac on mine today, i used a 89 compressor(from a 240 with weird na bracket for compressor and power steering pump instead of alternator) on my 93 940,Using the 93 bracket- had to move the brackets around from outer to inner if i recall correctly, on both the upper and lower 2 (i forget but it works) brackets on the compressor itself. I vacuum it down twice and drained all the r12 oil out of it and charged it back up. It blew 24 degrees in my garage at idle with push fan on. Not -11 like my last a/c job but o well, it will do for now. Here's some pics. I had a hell of a time getting power to the compressor. Checked all the fuses, checked relay, everything seems to be fine, banged on all the pressure switches in case one of them hung. Still no power. My lh2.4 ecu is unhooked and i think it uses a signal off stock tps which isn't there anymore for a/c cut off at wot . Shrug. So i ran a hot wire on a toggle to a relay for the a/c clutch, and need to incorporate the switches into the system , in case pressures get too high or low.Meh.Used compressor may burn up if i don't utilize the pressure switches.



Vacuum down.
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Then Charge.
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Ah and I added 5 ozs of the pag oil to the compressor with dye, just in case it leaks out somewhere. And , replaced the orings on the lines going to compressor.
 
I think my warm up enrichment is set too high looking at my datalogs, Hmmmm..This may be why my auto tune is kinda wonky off boost.
 
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