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Old 09-27-2016, 03:19 PM   #1
canyoneagle
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Default The DIY Panhard and Torque Rod Thread

In considering my various options for getting my car up to snuff (sporty DD), and like many others here, I've been looking at the available 3rd party (IPD, Kaplhenke) adjustable torque rods and panhard rod.

While the Kaplhenke rods are really nice, I think they are overkill for my application (price and tech), and I've read that the IPD rods are a pain due to the fact that they cannot be adjusted without unhooking one side.

I've only come across a couple of threads with DIY projects, and found THIS one to be particularly useful due to the recommendations for hardware (and vendor links).

That said, I think a dedicated DIY thread would be a good addition to offer a resource to others in the TB community. So, here it is.
I'll share what I can of my own process, but invite any and all who have done this (or know of good resources/guides or vendors) to participate and share.

Photos and step by step info, with parts lists / links are particularly useful. Hey, maybe someone with mechanical drafting chops could drop some dimensioned drawings/sketches.

Naturally, any considerations, criticisms, pitfalls, hazards, and warnings are also useful.

With context being so vital, please be sure to include model and year. I will add a second and third post as placekeepers to consolidate information for threads and resources.

Go.
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Old 09-27-2016, 03:19 PM   #2
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Default Resources - info

HARDWARE SOURCES

Panhard Rod: ID=____ (for bung/insert sizing) - ??? use 3/4" (19mm) jack screws/allthread??? (needs verification)
Torque Rod: ID=_____ (for bung/insert sizing) - ??12mm bung, 1/2" ID??

http://www.hrpworld.com/store/
http://www.mcmaster.com/#

Jack Screw:
http://steinjager.com/shop/index.php...oduct_id=28350 (for Panhard Rod)
http://www.midwestcontrol.com/series.php?id=88 - Metric
http://www.midwestcontrol.com/series.php?id=89 - English
Bungs:
http://steinjager.com/shop/index.php...ed&model=bungs
http://undercoverfab.com/83-tube-adapters-bungs
http://www.summitmachine.com/index.p...tomParts&cp=ta
http://www.mcmaster.com/#weld-bungs/=14crs3v
Rod Ends:
http://steinjager.com/shop/index.php...s&model=rekits
http://www.mcmaster.com/#rod-ends/=14d30w7

PROJECT LINKS
TORQUE RODS

1) HT834 (TB)
2) Hank Scorpio (TB)

PANHARD ROD

1) CHUCK W (TB)


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Old 09-27-2016, 03:19 PM   #3
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... separate post not needed - content deleted

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Old 09-27-2016, 03:38 PM   #4
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I made my p-hard bar on my 240 adjustable, as seen HERE.
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Old 09-27-2016, 04:10 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuck W View Post
I made my p-hard bar on my 240 adjustable, as seen HERE.
Excellent, thank you.
If you happen to know the specs of the hardware (jack screw and tubing adaptors) I'll add them in.

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Old 09-27-2016, 04:54 PM   #6
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3/4"-16 thread (RH/LH) (HERE) They have a couple other options (length and coatings)

They also have the tubing adapters, but I *think* I picked up mine from McMaster-Carr.
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Old 09-27-2016, 05:15 PM   #7
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i did this. cheap and it works...

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Old 09-27-2016, 05:24 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuck W View Post
3/4"-16 thread (RH/LH) (HERE) They have a couple other options (length and coatings)

They also have the tubing adapters, but I *think* I picked up mine from McMaster-Carr.
If you get a chance, can you post link to tubing adapters. I'm going the same route and like to get this done asap.
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Old 09-27-2016, 05:25 PM   #9
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i did this. cheap and it works...
Did you just weld a nut to pan hard bar? That's what it looks like you did and that would be very simple to do and can be accomplished pretty quickly.
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Old 09-27-2016, 05:55 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by white855T View Post
Did you just weld a nut to pan hard bar? That's what it looks like you did and that would be very simple to do and can be accomplished pretty quickly.
Wouldn't be my first choice...

I used the threaded bungs to give more thread engagement, as well as having more material to weld to. If you noticed, I drilled holes in the panhard to spot weld a couple additional locations.


Steinjager lists their bungs HERE.

McMaster HERE
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Old 09-27-2016, 06:05 PM   #11
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This seems like a project that if you need that much information and numbers from others you shouldn't be doing it.
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Old 09-27-2016, 06:15 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by Mueller View Post
This seems like a project that if you need that much information and numbers from others you shouldn't be doing it.
Perhaps my engineering and construction background (I'm used to specs) are making it a bit too OCD, but the idea is to make a central place where anyone can come to get info for their own projects and to share their own advice from doing it. I know there's more than one way to skin a cat, but certainly some best practices can emerge.

Isn't that one of the main benefits of an online forum, to share such info?

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Old 09-27-2016, 06:45 PM   #13
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I really think people make this way too hard. I got some 11" swedge tubes and threaded in rod ends. Done.

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Old 09-27-2016, 07:02 PM   #14
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I really think people make this way too hard. I got some 11" swedge tubes and threaded in rod ends. Done.

but you have to use stuff that was made in 1978 because you can save a dollar. obviously.

We aren't made of money around here.
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Old 09-27-2016, 07:21 PM   #15
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I'd prefer to use a rubber bushing, otherwise swedge tubes and rod ends are the way to go.
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Old 09-27-2016, 07:46 PM   #16
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I'd prefer to use a rubber bushing, otherwise swedge tubes and rod ends are the way to go.
2 winters so far with rod ends. They still look like new. Get the $30 Teflon with as balls and they last long.
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Old 09-27-2016, 07:51 PM   #17
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Oh, it's not a longevity issue for me, it's deflection. I'm far from a suspension guru, but I tend to prefer a 'softer' feel in the rear at the drags.
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Old 09-27-2016, 07:57 PM   #18
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I used a rod end on the axle and a 4 link bushing with poly inserts on the other. Best of both worlds without the binding.
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Old 09-28-2016, 02:33 AM   #19
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This is timely as my 95 945T recently got lowering springs, inch and a half or so, and now there is a bit of rumble under accel esp at lower speeds, which I attribute to a slightly out of line driveshaft. I was thinking of just removing it, cutting out a small section and weld it back together. 'small section' would be researched, but if this project gets actual numbers this would help.
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Old 09-28-2016, 02:48 AM   #20
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but you have to use stuff that was made in 1978 because you can save a dollar. obviously.

We aren't made of money around here.
Says the Apple Nerd in Volvoperformance Parts :D
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Old 09-28-2016, 03:25 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by white855T View Post
Did you just weld a nut to pan hard bar? That's what it looks like you did and that would be very simple to do and can be accomplished pretty quickly.
exactly, holding fine for 2 years now..
from the picture i would say iPD panhard bars are made the same way.
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Old 09-28-2016, 04:21 AM   #22
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240 Series Adjustable Torque rods:
Tools needed:
right angle drill
1/2 drill bit
3/4 wrench and 3/4 socket
Welder (not really needed on the car, you can do this ahead of time)
Cutoff wheel

Parts needed:
I used link rod and threaded adapters from www.hrpworld.com You'll need 4 1/2X20 threaded inserts and matching rod. This is what I used You'll need about 3 feet of rod.
4 1/2X20 Heim Joints I used these (CM8s)
4 bolts, I used 1/2X20 Grade8 3 or 3.25" long, 4 nuts and washers. Grab a few extra nuts just in case. Also, you'll need 4 Jam Nuts for the rod ends, but any normal nut will work.
Something metal and tubular that is atleast 1/2" ID. 6" is plenty.

Install:

OK, so I bet your wondering why you want to do this. Well, when you lower a 240, it throws the rear suspension geometery off. Everyone knows already about the panhard, but the torque rods also have a negative effect. When the suspension compresses (or is lowered) the torque rods fixed length causes the axle to rotate back, or up if you look at the driveshaft. This not only moves the driveshaft closer to the floor but it also causes the wheels to be moved further back in the wheel wells.

The other benifit is you get rid of the sloppy bushings and replace them with solid heim joints. If your abusing the car at all you've no doubtly turned what was a round bushing, into this:


Mine were not only ovalized, but the mounts were completely cracked through on both sides and both ends!

So heres what you need to do. When you get your parts from HRP your going to get the rod in uncut form. What you need to do is cut the rod so that your total length from threaded insert to threaded insert is 12.5". I found this gives plenty of adjustment. Now, you dont cut the rod this long, you adjust for the inserts at both ends.

Then slide the inserts in and have them welded up. You should end up something like this


Now like I said, the TOTAL length is 12.5, the adapters you use may vary so be sure to adjust. +/- 1/2 inch or so shouldn't be a problem.

Now, I bet your wondering why you need all the standard stuff. Well, our cars torque rods use Metric bolts, or 12mm's. Problem is, the heim joints are made for US standard, 1/2 which equates to 12.8MM. This gives .8mm slack in the joints. Do NOT think this is acceptable, it will quickly turn the bolt into a pretzel if you try to run it this way.

So, heres where the drill comes in. You will have to slightly open all the holes that the former bolts went through. Piece of cake. You should be able to slide your bolt through like this.



The car side is a bit more challenging. Obviously, the bolt threads into the frame rail. The outter bracket is easy to modify, so just drill out the frame with the 1/2" drill through the threads. You could probably actually rethread this with a tap for 1/2X20 threads.

Or, the threaded insert will break out of the frame. This happened to me on one side before doing this anyways. So, what I did was take a cut off wheel and cut a rectangle hole out of the bottom of the frame rail like so:


Then, I slid the bolt through, using fender washers on both side and just put a nut on the other end.

Now, before you do this, you can obviously see that theres some "slack" between the rod end and the bolt ends. What you need to do is make some "spacers" to take up the slack. Obviously, your sizes will vary so just do your best.

Then, just tighten everything up and you should have this:


Adjusting the torque rods:

I found the best techique is to leave one side completely off. Mount the one rod and adjust it where you think you need it. Jack the axle up to just before it picks the car off the jack stands. Look at the side of the car and see abouts where the wheel falls in the well. When you think you've got it close, lower the car on to the ground and see if it looks good. When it is adjusted right, install the other torque rod to the same length.

You should be able to go from this:

to this


or even more centered if you want.

Doug

stolen from http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=18565
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Old 09-28-2016, 04:24 AM   #23
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PANHARD ROD:
This critical steel tube keeps the chassis from swaying from side to side as it links the rear axle to the chassis so movement to one another is relative over a wide arc. Trailing arms, torque rods and springs assist the axle attach squarely to the chassis. Therefore, its most important panhard rod bushes are in top condition with no play whatsoever.
Standard Volvo rubber bushes are good hard and rigid, no argument. Polyurethane bushes are an alternative and offered by Noltec, SuperFlex, with Nylon offered by SAM - racecars use uniballs/rosejoints. Tech hint - if upgrading the chassis end panhard bush to a poly unit with steel sleeve, it is recommended you check the play/clearance between the steel sleeve and the securing bolt. A tighter tolerance steel sleeve might need to be made eg. 12.0 mm ID. Tech hint - For the axle attachment end bush, if upgrading to a poly unit with steel sleeve (where a standard rubber bushes are vulcanised to the steel sleeve), a point to consider is the poly bush is free to slide along the fixed steel sleeve and will most likely butt up against the axle which itself is OK, but this means the sleeve is then too long (ie the poly is not being clamped into position. A remedy is to shorten the sleeve a bit and put a larger outside diameter washer at the nut end. From an alignment perspective, if you lower the chassis with shorter spring height, the panhard rod sits closer to a level position, meaning the rod is at its optimum position, moving the chassis a little further left, relative to the axle.

For more precise side positioning of the chassis-to-tire location, an adjustable panhard rod can be fitted that uses a L&RH thread system (eg. 3/4" dia) sourced from a suspension manufacturer/shop, (in Australia - Whiteline #KTB180). Before modification, do your math then hacksaw out a section on the large dia tube (eg 80 mm length), suggest near LH end for adjustment accessability. Machine 2 off supplied nuts on the O.D. for most of their length so they press into ends of rod tube (27.1 mm dia) and have welded-in professionally.
A suggested adjustment reference point is the chassis-rail near the top of rear spring hat, measure inside of tire/tyre to square chassis rail (not inside of guards), make equal, and if required obtain a thrust wheel alignment.I tried a 4 mm shorter rod length and noticed a handling improvement. The Dana diff centre offset is to the right with an offset from chassis centre of approx 32 mm (don't centre the diff, leave as is and use the tire to chassis rail left to right comparison). Hint: to reduce the chance of the nut undoing, secure a wide nylon tie around the shaft thread(s).
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Old 09-28-2016, 04:26 AM   #24
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Keeep in mind there are different ones
TORQUE RODS (REACTION Rods / Upper trailing arms) and BUSHES:
240 series rear suspension is very similar to a four link design being quite reasonable for differential control. Newer style - later model torque rods when fitted with stiffer poly bushes do give increased security on higher speed corners, and offer better diff location control when accelerating out of corners.

Two types of Volvo torque rods exist and function to keep the rear axle/differential square to the chassis and to limit diff windup or rotation.
a) The older type rods, (1975-83?) are fitted with very flexible small diameter curved bushes (also called butterfly or dog-bone due to shape). Replacement butterfly bushes are expensive and very tricky to press in, but the problem is, there's far too much compliance in this small bush for performance use.

b) Newer style torque rods, 1983 onwards, feature a much larger rubber bush of stiffer design. For further bush upgrades, IPD offer an excellent two piece polyurethane unit that features generous side wall diameters, ideal for keeping the axle better located in dynamic use. Super Flex and Energy Suspensions also offer poly torque rod bushes. An option to fitting poly bushes is much harder rubber bush for newer torque rods as used in Volvo Cup competition (x4 req'd) are available from SAM #1273622RF
It's really worth upgrading to the newer rods - a parts recycler being a good source.

Adjustable torque rods - If lowering your car more than usual, the diff nose will be pointed down more than is acceptable for efficient rear uni joint function (do you hear a grumble sound when de-cellerating). You will need to shorten the torque rods to bring the nose up again - an adjustable threaded section is the solution (you want to make the rod shorter by say 5-10mm) and there are many suppliers for Volvo. Under sudden acceleration the diff nose rises a (disturbingly) large amount.
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Old 09-28-2016, 05:12 AM   #25
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Timing.

I'm just about to order a set of Fluro motorsport rod ends (M16) for the torque rods. One end rod ends, other end some kind of rubber bushing. Making the spacers on the lathe to make sure it fits perfectly.

The poly ones in my car are stupid. The ends of the rods are oval now so the poly stuff wont last long.

Still looking for good hardware that one can weld. Just welding some kind of high strength bolt is a no-no for me. Right quality/spec can be welded but need to find a place where I can just buy a few, not 200 in one box.

One can buy rubber boots for rod ends too. I used them before and it helps to make the joints last longer and the annual inspection over here doesn't see shiny motorsport parts.
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