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Old 07-07-2016, 11:57 AM   #126
canyoneagle
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The next project on my list is a complete driveline rebuild - U-joints and center support bearing/donut. I just ordered the parts this morning and will use this as incentive to get some sort of workbench in place this weekend.

I checked everything out when I was doing the shifter bushings, and everything is due. Lots of U-Joint play, and a completely crushed support donut. No surprise - I can feel the slop in the drivetrain when I drive - particularly when accelerating.

In the mean time, I think I will tackle removing the titanium bolts from the Style 42's.
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Old 07-07-2016, 01:02 PM   #127
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The next project on my list is a complete driveline rebuild - U-joints and center support bearing/donut. I just ordered the parts this morning and will use this as incentive to get some sort of workbench in place this weekend.

I checked everything out when I was doing the shifter bushings, and everything is due. Lots of U-Joint play, and a completely crushed support donut. No surprise - I can feel the slop in the drivetrain when I drive - particularly when accelerating.

In the mean time, I think I will tackle removing the titanium bolts from the Style 42's.
That's on my list as well, I can really feel driveline vibration under acceleration and the support donut is cracked. I am curious how you'll fare with removing the driveshaft...I couldn't remove the 4x driveshaft bolts at the diff last time I tried...too much corrosion. Might need to try an impact or get out the cutoff wheel.
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Old 07-07-2016, 01:56 PM   #128
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That's on my list as well, I can really feel driveline vibration under acceleration and the support donut is cracked. I am curious how you'll fare with removing the driveshaft...I couldn't remove the 4x driveshaft bolts at the diff last time I tried...too much corrosion. Might need to try an impact or get out the cutoff wheel.
Yup, I'm going to wire brush and use the impact gun.
I am considering ordering new bolt/nut sets from IPD and just replacing the old with new.
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Old 07-07-2016, 02:00 PM   #129
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Another arrival to the yard in the past 2 days, a pretty clean Mazda 3. I plucked the seats for $45 on the chance they might be able to work in the 245. If not, I figure I can sell them on.


Welp, time to get another set of wheels.
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My knob has a big chunk of steel on it
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Old 07-07-2016, 04:17 PM   #130
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Welp, time to get another set of wheels.


Speaking of wheels, what did you end up doing to fit your style 42's? I assume you are running 225/45 17's.

I'm thinking 20mm spacers and fender rolling should do it, but would like to hear anything you encountered in your application.

FWIW I will probably do a minor drop - IPD or H&R sport springs.
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Old 07-16-2016, 02:55 PM   #131
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Welp, time to get another set of wheels.
Is it because Style 42's are OVER?




https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6cC3kkw48E8

No, seriously. You running 20mm spacers on yours?

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Old 07-18-2016, 09:28 AM   #132
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Boring but beneficial maintenance this weekend. I rebuilt the driveshaft - 3 new U-joints, center bearing, donut, spring and washer.

Two of the U-joints were a royal pain - one of them required grinding on the bases of the caps in order to pull them out once pressed. Pics:

Tight fit in the carport, with a new entryway/laundry room taking space:
Still have the WA plates - gotta get the title from the PO one of these days....




The basic setup for U-joint duty:






I had to grind the caps on one of the U-joints to remove them - no amount of PB Blaster and Vice Grip twisting was able to budge them. They popped right out after hitting them with an angle grinder.



Fresh U-joint.

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Old 07-18-2016, 02:29 PM   #133
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Speaking of wheels, what did you end up doing to fit your style 42's? I assume you are running 225/45 17's.

I'm thinking 20mm spacers and fender rolling should do it, but would like to hear anything you encountered in your application.

FWIW I will probably do a minor drop - IPD or H&R sport springs.
20mm works on those wheels. Make sure to use the shortest lug nuts possible as the relief pockets on the wheels are large enough to clear studs, but not lug nuts.

As for lowering the car, make sure to at the very least get some adjustable torque and panhard rods to get the axle centered perfectly. The fender lips will need some pretty drastic cutting and rolling done also.

That should get you to clear. Since mine is so low, I needed to shorten the trailing arms by 15mm or so to eliminate any rubbing, and to re-center the axle in the well.

As for tires, these are 215/45R17s...they are a tiny bit shorter than a 225/45. That said, they are Federal 595s so they run rather large for their quoted size...contact patch is actually 15mm wider than the 225/50R17 Pilot Sport A/S3s in my Acura. Long story short there should be enough room for a 225/45 to clear.
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Old 07-18-2016, 03:54 PM   #134
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20mm works on those wheels. Make sure to use the shortest lug nuts possible as the relief pockets on the wheels are large enough to clear studs, but not lug nuts.

As for lowering the car, make sure to at the very least get some adjustable torque and panhard rods to get the axle centered perfectly. The fender lips will need some pretty drastic cutting and rolling done also.

That should get you to clear. Since mine is so low, I needed to shorten the trailing arms by 15mm or so to eliminate any rubbing, and to re-center the axle in the well.

As for tires, these are 215/45R17s...they are a tiny bit shorter than a 225/45. That said, they are Federal 595s so they run rather large for their quoted size...contact patch is actually 15mm wider than the 225/50R17 Pilot Sport A/S3s in my Acura. Long story short there should be enough room for a 225/45 to clear.
Great info, thank you.

I picked up a small assortment of suspension bits from K-Jets and plan to do the DIY mods to the torque rods and panhard bar.

You mentioned cutting on the fenders - did you cut the inner lip, or do more extensive cutting? I'll dive into your build thread to see if the answers lie there.
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Old 07-19-2016, 04:55 PM   #135
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Things are generally better with the driveshaft work done - sloppy tranny u-joint and mid support no more.

I am getting some vibration - low frequency. I suspect the rear diff u-joint, which was extremely stiff. I hope it will loosen as I drive it.

FWIW I made sure to align the marks (even made my own as a double check) when re-assembling the two halves of the driveshaft together.
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Old 07-21-2016, 09:12 AM   #136
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Looks like I will need to re-do the rear U-joint. It is definitely binding, creating strong vibration when I drive.

I suspect I may have slightly bent one of the ears - gonna pull the rear section and take a look. Ugh. That one was a real pain to do - the cups are REALLY tight inside the ears. Maybe they will be easier this time around.
At least I can just remove the rear section only and not worry about pulling the whole driveshaft.
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Old 08-01-2016, 03:18 PM   #137
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3/16" A36 plate arrived today.
Gonna get started fabricating some seat brackets. Photos to come.

Edit:
ended up getting 16 gauge to work with. that 3/16 was overkill for the task.

Last edited by canyoneagle; 08-18-2016 at 08:46 AM..
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Old 08-18-2016, 10:10 PM   #138
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Finally made a little progress this evening. It's been so damn sticky outside this Summer, so I've stayed inside.

I made the rough cuts and bends for the new seat brackets. I need to do 2 minor bends for the sloped rear mount, but will do that next time.

Away we go - 16 gauge cold rolled steel - MUCH better choice than the 3/16" I had originally chosen.



Rough cut brackets:



Initial bends for the rear outside mounts (topside down in this photo)



Next up is dry fitting and marking bolt holes, then prime, paint and install.
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Old 10-04-2016, 08:23 AM   #139
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Not much car action this Summer - great weather if you are a plant or mosquito, but not for people.

The Fall air is bringing me back out to the shop, and I finally got around to prepping for the suspension work.

I have started cleaning up the bits and pieces I got from K-Jets:
I've gotta run these to a local shop because I don't own a shop press to get the bushing sleeves out. Considering the hacksaw method.





A-Arms next.

I hope to get going with everything this weekend.
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Old 10-04-2016, 09:56 PM   #140
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dang that is one clean trailing arm!
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Old 10-07-2016, 04:28 PM   #141
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dang that is one clean trailing arm!
yeah - grinder/drill with many wire brush styles. I'll need to get the dremel for some tight spots.
It is too humid to paint at the moment, so the trailing arms, panhard and a-arms are all sitting naked in the shop.

In the mean time, I snagged one of these even though I have no immediate plans to use it. I had been imagining cutting a K-jet intake manifold and having a custom manifold made for webers/mikunis.
So, this is heading my way from Sweden:



It doesn't look like it has ports for vacuum - this will be a future project, so not worrying about details for now.

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Old 10-07-2016, 04:57 PM   #142
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Did the seats ever make it in there?
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Old 10-07-2016, 06:25 PM   #143
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Did the seats ever make it in there?
OOOH, thanks for the reminder - yes, yes they did

I'm looking for a set of properly fitted brown (or sheepskin) covers....

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Old 10-11-2016, 12:45 AM   #144
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Default Suspension time

While my wife is out of town (and I have use of her car) I'm doing the teardown and rebuild of the tired old sussy.

I've been refurbishing the bits from k-jets and now have an assortment of shiny things to install.

Konis (thanks to the killer IPD sale), springs (might regret the blue IPD punishers), bushings (all poly, despite the trend to do rubber front trailing arm bushings), tie rod ends, ball joints, and a new set of wheels to spruce things up. As I understand, these MSW's have made their way from local TB'er Impolvo to Florida (wgusler), and back to Chapel hill.

A timely sale at Pepboys enabled getting these rims shod in Falkens for stupid cheap. Here's a shot of dry fit while the car is up for sussy work. I like 'em. I'll be refurbishing the style 42's and selling them on. Just sayin'



I removed the bushing sleeves from the control arms and trailing arms this evening using the handy hacksaw and discretionary socket/hammer/ghetto press.





Otherwise, new tie rod ends are on and I'm into dremel stage getting the sussy bits ready for paint. High humidity (despite enticingly cool temps) kept me from priming tonight.

They wait patiently....... (control arms still need final cleaning)



I have some dremel work to get the tight spots, but 50% humidity tomorrow and glorious fall temps should prove for good painting.
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Old 10-11-2016, 05:17 AM   #145
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How do you have so much patience to get all that paint off?

I'd simply get them sandblasted and powder coated.
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Old 10-11-2016, 08:34 AM   #146
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How do you have so much patience to get all that paint off?

I'd simply get them sandblasted and powder coated.
I'm not sure if it is patience of stubbornness

I had certainly given though to the sandblasting/powdercoat thing, but I'm trying to keep it cheap. I guess I might have $35 into it with the cost of wire wheels/brushes, primer and paint.

I think I get into a groove, and then I keep going until I'm happy. Probably not the most efficient way to go about it, I'm sure
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Old 10-14-2016, 12:49 AM   #147
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I finally got the suspension bits done and painted earlier this week. Kinda shiny. I brought them inside to cure in the conditioned (heated) air while the temps outside approached dew point - not good for painting.
I knew I took a risk by starting to prime as the evening temps dropped and humidity rose. The paint took a few days to dry fully. Grr. I was stuck with waiting until the next day (and having to address overnight scale) or getting them coated immediately after finishing the cleaning.





I put them out in the sun today after having been inside for a couple of days - it was 70 degrees and gorgeous out, with somewhat lower humidity than previous days. The parts baked in the sun for a few hours.

After an epic night last night, helping TB'er Bitterbuffaloh change out his lower Trailing arm bushings and springs, I went and picked up my driveshaft which I had balanced at a local specialist.

This evening I got the driveshaft back in, cleaned up bitterbuffaloh's old TAB sleeves (for my poly bushings), and got the poly bushings pressed in to all of my stuff (TAB's excepted).

Tomorrow will be rear teardown, TAB replacement, new brake lines, then I'll start to put it all back together.
A flush/bleed will then allow me to get o'l Rosa on the road again in DD capacity before my wife returns from her trip.

With the manifold on its way from Sweden, I'm already thinking of ejecting the K-Jet and going with Mikunis (or motorcycle carbs) and a cam.
I've started doing some very basic research on that.

In the process of doing the suspension overhaul, I've realized my brake calipers and rotors are on the edge of needing replacement. If I had not already spent all of my money on blow and hookers and squandered the rest on the suspension stuff, it would be an ideal time for me to do calipers and rotors now.
Oh well......

Oh yeah, and I will finally get around to resetting my brake junction block during the flush/bleed this weekend, so the stupid "brake Failure" light can take a break.

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Old 10-17-2016, 06:19 PM   #148
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Default Suspension is DONE

After weeks of preparation, cleaning, gathering parts, and planning, I took advantage of a week when my wife was out of town and put the car up with the intention of tearing out the old suspension and putting in the new. This included:
  • Replacing all bushings with poly
  • Installing refurbished Control Arms, Trailing Arms, Panhard rod and Torque Rods
  • Installing new Koni Sport dampers
  • Installing IPD Sport Springs
  • replacing strut mounts (OEM)
  • installing IPD anti-sways (25/23) (used) and end links
  • Installing new ball joints and tie rod ends
  • Replacing all 6 rubber brake lines
  • removing rust, prepping and painting diff cover
  • Mounting MSW meshies

During this time, TB'er Bitterbuffaloh brought his wagon over and we replaced his lower TAB's, strut inserts and new springs all around. It was great to have him here and do some "guy time" wrenching. good times.

There were some late nights, opportunities for creativity (ahem), cutting, grinding, music and beer. And coffee. Lots of coffee.

For a quick before and after, here ya go:

BEFORE - "vulnerable doe tentatively taking a dump while watching for predators"


AFTER "grrrrrrr"



I have the rear center caps, but need to do some work on the center bores / caps to improve the fit.

I LOVE the way the car drives. The Konis and IPD springs seem very well matched out of the box (from my driving thus far). I've been driving a variety of roads with different surfaces, seams, cracks, bumps, etc to see how it does, and so far, the car stays planted no matter what I throw at it. I'm really happy with the setup.

Now some more project photos of the past week:

The weekend scene with Bitterbuffaloh's ride up for work



Control arms, old and refurbished (I only cleaned the bushing buckets)



Front ready for wheels




rear complete



Of everything the only disappointment was the fact that I had to retain my lower TAB's. Fortunately they felt extremely solid, despite being fugly as hell.
After 6 PB blaster soaks, I broke the beautiful factory tool - the center bolt snapped as I put the torque on it. I'll be replacing that bolt

Axle refurb is now on my "to do" list


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Old 10-17-2016, 08:57 PM   #149
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I bet it drives like a totally different car with all that work.

Which primer and paint did you use on the suspension parts? Those turned out really nice, and I may take a similar approach.
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Old 10-17-2016, 10:21 PM   #150
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I bet it drives like a totally different car with all that work.

Which primer and paint did you use on the suspension parts? Those turned out really nice, and I may take a similar approach.
I used Krylon "Rust Tough" enamel - it will be interesting to see how it holds up, especially with me painting in humid conditions. So far, so good, though. The parts seem to have stood up to miscellaneous shop dings and so forth (pressing bushings, fitting and torquing, etc). I'm hoping these will be easy to spray down to keep clean. I know these are hardly visible, but it really feels good to know that these are fully rust free and ready for many miles more.

And yes - the driving experience is TOTALLY different. MUCH better. I'm very happy with it. Now for a mikuni conversion and cam..............
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