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Old 10-17-2016, 10:28 PM   #151
white855T
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I used Krylon "Rust Tough" enamel - it will be interesting to see how it holds up, especially with me painting in humid conditions. So far, so good, though. The parts seem to have stood up to miscellaneous shop dings and so forth (pressing bushings, fitting and torquing, etc). I'm hoping these will be easy to spray down to keep clean. I know these are hardly visible, but it really feels good to know that these are fully rust free and ready for many miles more.

And yes - the driving experience is TOTALLY different. MUCH better. I'm very happy with it. Now for a mikuni conversion and cam..............
Enamel will hold up for a good while before it needs to be touched up. I am going the same route with my wheels as well.
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Old 10-17-2016, 10:49 PM   #152
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Enamel will hold up for a good while before it needs to be touched up. I am going the same route with my wheels as well.
I used enamel when I redid the steelies and it has held up really well
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Old 10-17-2016, 11:09 PM   #153
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You now have a great looking wagon. You've really done an awesome job with it.
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Old 10-18-2016, 10:15 AM   #154
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You now have a great looking wagon. You've really done an awesome job with it.
Thanks!

I'm in love with the way it drives. The short commute on the narrow, winding road through the woods was an absolute blast. The car just feels planted.

I'm holding off on an alignment until I get the rear rods set up with adjusters. It goes dead straight (no pull) in driving and braking, so yay for measuring tie rod offset correctly.
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Old 10-18-2016, 12:22 PM   #155
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Sorry for your luck with the rear trailing arm bushings. Dumb question, but you were pressing them towards the diff correct? They are tapered and only go out one way.
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Old 10-18-2016, 02:14 PM   #156
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Sorry for your luck with the rear trailing arm bushings. Dumb question, but you were pressing them towards the diff correct? They are tapered and only go out one way.
Yup.
We changed Bitterbuffalohs last week, and they came out OK.

I think I will burn the shell and pop the inner bushing, clean everything up, paint it, then put the polys in. I will need to remove the e-brake cables beforehand (and probably the hard brake lines) to keep from incinerating everything. A job for another day.....
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Old 10-19-2016, 10:20 AM   #157
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You gotta get some good pictures of the wagon up here now. It looks GREAT!

My brake bleed kit comes today, think I should be able to bleed the system myself with all the guidance provided by you this weekend. Then aligment, then I'll be back on the road!!
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Old 10-19-2016, 03:47 PM   #158
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You gotta get some good pictures of the wagon up here now. It looks GREAT!

My brake bleed kit comes today, think I should be able to bleed the system myself with all the guidance provided by you this weekend. Then aligment, then I'll be back on the road!!
Gotta do a nice wash and finish compounding / waxing that paint. I would not mind getting a respray in the original color soon - the clearcoat is flaking in many areas and the paint itself is beginning to peel on the driver's side.
I want to get under the car soon to address the few rusty areas (drivers side butcheek, primarily) and get primer going just to keep things in check.

The fuel injection, which was on my near term to do list, has suddenly woken up. I had put a high concentration of Techron in (full bottle on low fuel), and perhaps letting the techron-rich fuel sit in the system for the week or so that I had the car up allowed the varnish to dissolve. Regardless, it is driving GREAT.

It was fun to have you over and to get your ride all spruced up.

I need to do a re-bleed soon as well. As I've been driving it, the system seems to have balanced itself nicely. Hell the "Brake System Failure" light went out for the first time since I've had the car. I've not bothered to reset the little piston in the junction block. Anyway, it is nice to not have the big red light on.
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Old 10-23-2016, 07:17 PM   #159
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Installed a very nice vintage Momo (courtesy of Impolvo). Not sure if I prefer it with or without the wood center piece. I am looking into getting brown seat covers (or sheepskin).

Here is the state of the interior as it sits now. I'm dreaming of a refurbished R-Sport cluster

Black floor mats are on my list......
I also need to source a Momo cover for the hub.

I love how much better it feels without the bus-sized steering wheel. The car is driving fantastically, and the interface through the steering wheel is icing on the cake.

Without the wooden cover



And with the cover

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Old 10-24-2016, 12:02 AM   #160
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If you are taking votes, I'd go without the wood panel
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Old 10-24-2016, 01:02 AM   #161
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If you are taking votes, I'd go without the wood panel


It's fugly, way fugly.
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Folks on here don't know a good deal when they see it.
how psi a stock can support?

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Old 10-24-2016, 06:43 AM   #162
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Good. I agree. The panel's just not working for me visually.
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Old 10-25-2016, 12:19 PM   #163
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Good. I agree. The panel's just not working for me visually.
If the dash had a ton of other wood trim or something it probably would but as it sits you're right.

Can't wait to see the rsport cluster in there!
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Old 01-23-2017, 10:26 AM   #164
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Not much in the way of real work in the past couple of months. I've rigged a bolt in the tailgate handle so I no longer have to crawl over the back seat to open the tailgate.

I bought Philski's AQ151 carb setup and plan to rebuild the Solex's and install them. I'm not super excited about having carbs without choke, but I am getting pretty tired of the intermittent K-jet issues, and am not really interested in investing the time/effort/money into learning it and making it work.

Ultimately, I'd like to get a head to re-work and throw on some Mikuni bike carbs or TB's, but that is for another time.

For now, I'm going to get a mechanical fuel pump, get rid of the K-jet pumps/relay, and give the Solex's a go.
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Old 06-26-2017, 09:34 AM   #165
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Long time, no update here.

I pulled the refurbed Torque Rods and Panhard Rod out and installed the IPD adjustables. I'll be fine tuning angles/lengths, but have everything relatively close.

I will be listing the original stuff (refurbed/painted 91+ with poly bushings) for someone to do DIY adjustables.

I still haven't had a chance to find the source of my poor running condition. I will start by troubleshooting the ignition, and will then dive into the K-Jet if the ignition is not the issue.

I am gradually getting the car to a point where I can sell it - either BAT or Ebay - the lack of AC (and my unwillingness to try to install an aftermarket system) means it is time for the car to be passed on. It is my daily driver, and the humid eastern summers are not conducive to staying reasonably "fresh" for an office job.

Next on the project list:
- Ignition / K-Jet

After that, I have several things lined up:
- Replace most brake components (new stuff sitting in the box, ready to go)
- Replace clutch (Sachs kit on the way)
- Re-do tailgate wiring
- fix/replace windshield wiper motor
- Install Hella H4's and relay. I've had the lights sitting in a box for a year, just haven't gotten around to installing them. When I do this, I'll refurb the quad round bezels and grille
- Repair buttcheeks - minor rust, currrently being held at bay with a wire brush/primer job.

Those are the items on my list before I sell the car. Should be fun.

Ive been researching and watching used 996's and C30's - my prime candidates for something fun and sporty that is also a decent DD.
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Old 06-27-2017, 01:12 AM   #166
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AC is pretty easy to install. Just need to find a donor car that has all the pieces you need. There's a piece of plastic that you need to cut out of the side of the heater box, so you can slide the evaporator into place. Then, remove the two rubber plugs on the firewall panel and run the AC lines between the passenger compartment and the engine compartment. Remove the non-AC PS bracket pieces, install the AC bracketry to the pump, then install the plate for the AC compressor on the side of the block. Mount the compressor, replace the solid PS pulley section of the crank pulley with the one that uses the shims, then install the AC belt after mounting the PS pump to the top of the compressor and installing its belt. Usually three shims is enough tension for the AC belt. Install the condenser and a new receiver/drier in their respective places, connect the hoses with new seals, then connect the wiring and your AC switch in the dash. Only other change that needs to be done is to add the small pierburg valve that mounts to the firewall, and add the vacuum diaphragm to the lower aux. air valve hose, so the idle boosts when the AC is turned on. Once that's done, go get the system charged.

It'll take you about 3-4 hours from start to finish to install parts from another 240 in your car. Probably a lot cheaper than buying a 996 or a C30.

-J
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Old 06-29-2017, 08:24 PM   #167
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AC is pretty easy to install. Just need to find a donor car that has all the pieces you need. There's a piece of plastic that you need to cut out of the side of the heater box, so you can slide the evaporator into place. Then, remove the two rubber plugs on the firewall panel and run the AC lines between the passenger compartment and the engine compartment. Remove the non-AC PS bracket pieces, install the AC bracketry to the pump, then install the plate for the AC compressor on the side of the block. Mount the compressor, replace the solid PS pulley section of the crank pulley with the one that uses the shims, then install the AC belt after mounting the PS pump to the top of the compressor and installing its belt. Usually three shims is enough tension for the AC belt. Install the condenser and a new receiver/drier in their respective places, connect the hoses with new seals, then connect the wiring and your AC switch in the dash. Only other change that needs to be done is to add the small pierburg valve that mounts to the firewall, and add the vacuum diaphragm to the lower aux. air valve hose, so the idle boosts when the AC is turned on. Once that's done, go get the system charged.

It'll take you about 3-4 hours from start to finish to install parts from another 240 in your car. Probably a lot cheaper than buying a 996 or a C30.

-J
That is one option, for sure. The only hesitation I have is that I've never been impressed by the AC in 240's, so the thought of installing a used system does not inspire me.

For me, the main catalyst is a likely change of commute from 5 miles each way to 20, and a simultaneous re-focusing of my time and energy away from wrenching on a 40 year old car.

If my commute remains as is, I can keep the car as is, but the "older car" restoration hobby will still go on the back burner

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Old 07-19-2017, 02:08 PM   #168
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Finally got around to waxing the car, after numerous false starts, including full compound and initial prep.
I powerwashed the flaking clearcoat to clean up the hood. It'll do for now.

Other note: I had a new '91 windshield installed a couple of months back. The old one was pitted and leaking in numerous spots around the perimeter. I like the new one quite a bit, though it comes at the expense of having to remove the chrome trim. I might try to affix the trim to the rubber to get that original look back.

I've done a couple of rounds of adjustments on the panhard/torque rods and still have some vibration in the driveline. For now I have the rear tranny yoke within 1 degree of the diff yoke, and about 2.5 degrees off from the rear portion of the driveshaft. I have some new tranny and motor mounts that I will install, then re-check the rear.
I'd love to hear some input from any folks who've adjusted their torque/panhard rods with the 2-piece driveshafts for any tips (which yokes to align, angle variations you've seen in your applications, general tips, etc).

I might be resigned to take the car into an old Volvo guy to figure out my poor running condition. I don't have a dwell meter or oscilloscope, and think that running through the K-jet and/or ignition system might be too much for me to take on with my diminishing wrenching time.

[IMG][/IMG]

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Old 07-19-2017, 03:57 PM   #169
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Love the way your wagon is turning out. Hope you get the drivability issues sorted.
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Old 07-19-2017, 04:08 PM   #170
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Looking great!
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