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YASVT (Yet Another Sixteen Valve Turbo) - now 16V Whiteblock (LS)

LOL. No. It's been nasty/cold/wet here. Somewhat saps my enthusiasm for working on the thing.

I did bolt the manifolds/crossover pipe/turbo in and start looking at the turbo oil drain. And fixed the last major fitment issue - one of the wastegates was pointed into the passenger side frame rail. I just cut the crossover pipe on both sides of the WG flange, rotated it about 15 degrees, rewelded it. Now the WG's don't hit anything or each other. I had a half a thought (maybe a quarter?) to put little mufflers on the screamer pipes, but yea, not needed, if I'm on the WG then a little bit less noise isn't going to make it look more civilized.

It's a bit crowded over on the passenger side down below the turbo, with the crossover pipe/merge collector/wastegates. After some pondering, I decided to not do an oil drain straight down into the block/oil pan. So I got a cute little sump tank (.75L) and a scavenge pump, and I'm going to gravity drain down to the vented tank, sitting under the rad, and then pump the oil back up to the driver side valve cover. One more thing to fail and pour oil all over, lol.

Got a nice leather 6-speed shift knob from... Croatia? eBay, you so crazy. But it was pretty cheap, looks nice, I'm happy with it. Still need to do a little more fettling on the shifter area to finish that off.

Mostly I just need nicer weather. Since I don't have a heated garage.
 
LOL. No. It's been nasty/cold/wet here. Somewhat saps my enthusiasm for working on the thing.

I did bolt the manifolds/crossover pipe/turbo in and start looking at the turbo oil drain. And fixed the last major fitment issue - one of the wastegates was pointed into the passenger side frame rail. I just cut the crossover pipe on both sides of the WG flange, rotated it about 15 degrees, rewelded it. Now the WG's don't hit anything or each other. I had a half a thought (maybe a quarter?) to put little mufflers on the screamer pipes, but yea, not needed, if I'm on the WG then a little bit less noise isn't going to make it look more civilized.

It's a bit crowded over on the passenger side down below the turbo, with the crossover pipe/merge collector/wastegates. After some pondering, I decided to not do an oil drain straight down into the block/oil pan. So I got a cute little sump tank (.75L) and a scavenge pump, and I'm going to gravity drain down to the vented tank, sitting under the rad, and then pump the oil back up to the driver side valve cover. One more thing to fail and pour oil all over, lol.

Got a nice leather 6-speed shift knob from... Croatia? eBay, you so crazy. But it was pretty cheap, looks nice, I'm happy with it. Still need to do a little more fettling on the shifter area to finish that off.

Mostly I just need nicer weather. Since I don't have a heated garage.

Yeah I get it... Looks like winter is going to be terribly long over here. It's been cold since the beginning of November. I was kinda getting use to not getting snow until the middle of December because of, hum, global warming. Ain't going to happen this year though.
 
Not much has changed, but I have been ordering some parts.

I was pondering the fuel situation. The car has a DW300 pump in it now, but running a boosted LS motor on E85 needs more flow than that can handle. And it's a PITA to try and fit more pump into the 240's small fuel sender setup. But I didn't want to fuel cell it, that's a 'bit much'. Anyhow, saw the Aeromotive 'Phantom' pumps. Designed to fit into pretty much any tank with a simple hole saw chop into the top. They had several models. The "Flex' fuel one had enough flow to handle what I've got going on under the hood (550-ish hp worth of boosted EFI running E85). But... just barely? And the 'dual phantom' setup was only a little bit more, that supports something like 1100 hp. Which is a lot more than I'll ever need. But better to have a bit more fuel than you need than a bit less. Found one unboxed but unused for sale on ebay for a pretty decent price.

Dual_Phantom_completex-500x332.jpg


Plans are to run it in a staged configuration - only one pump running normally, then the second one kicks in when you get above a certain amount of boost. AN8 lines going into a Y back by the tank into AN10 line running to the front, then Y-ing out to both fuel rails, back to the FPR, and an AN8 return line. And I can just take the DW300 off of the fuel sender and plug the fuel lines - all it will be doing is reading the fuel level (and still managing vapor recovery). That big yellow and black thing is a foam baffle that acts as a surge tank, hopefully keeping the engine fueled during a 1/4 mile run. I was going to put it along the back edge of the tank so fuel would slosh *to* the pump under acceleration, but the 240 tank gets really short back there, and this has a certain minimum depth it needs (you cut the rail the pumps attach to, and the foam baffle, to fit).

Now to pull the tank and chop a hole in it...

I could also measure for a driveshaft now, another thing I've not been doing with all the cold and/or wet weather.

I was going to do some stuff to it last weekend, the weather wasn't half bad, but immediately found out that truck intake manifold bolts don't fit on LS6 manifolds, needed to order some. I did clean the sand/dirt/whatever out of the Kuwaiti sourced LS6 manifold. And dug out the Goldbox harness and discovered that the EV6 plugs on it don't fit the EV1 Dekas they sold as a set, they're sending some adapters.
 
I don't know how much power you are shooting for. But a single walbro 525 fits and it's about 200 bucks. And will put you well over 550whp on e85 on a good line and wiring
 
Erik is right. I just installed one of those aeromotive double pumpers in my buddy's car and they're big. It would take a fair amount of cutting in the trunk and tank to get it to fit with access in a 240. A 525 will fit in the stock sending unit with a little modification and should flow plenty for you.
 
If I've learned anything, it's that my goals tend to grow over time. I'm just assuming that at some point I'll replace the smaller turbo and 3" exhaust and try to get more power out of it.
 
If you shop right, you can get one of those dump pump setups for $560 or so. Super easy and clean install with AN fittings built into it. No need to **** around with the stock sending unit.
 
Yeah, I got it for a pretty good price. Certainly far less than 'new' cost, someone bought it, unpacked it, didn't use it, sold it on eBay.

As far as fitting it on the tank... I'm not sure I see the issue? It's very low profile outside the tank, no taller than the AN fittings that screw onto it. Certainly shorter than the stock sender. I'm not going to bother chopping an access panel to get to it from inside the car, although maybe I'll regret that later. I'm just going to pull the tank, install, put the tank back in.

If a pump ever fails, at least I've got another one - if it's the secondary pump I just move a wire on the relays and drive it home on that pump instead.
 
After a long while of not touching this even a little (cold wet weather, even in a garage it's no fun working on cars in the damp coldness), I did a bit over the weekend.

- Finished up the shifter - put the boot back on, shifter knob, etc. And the lever is a little bit on the short side, I may end up lengthening it a little. But nice short snick click snick throws.
- stuck a steam vent kit on, bolted the intake down with new gaskets (after cleaning a bunch of sandy dirty crap out of the inside)
- built some PS lines
- cleaned the TB - same sort of sandy crap there too. Run without an air filter? Who knows, the intake came from Kuwait, the seller sells all sorts of LS stuff from there.


I had vague plans of pulling the gas tank out and putting the new pumps in it, but... motivation was lacking.

Ordered a radiator and fans for it today.

Momentum should pick up on this with more daylight in the weekday evenings and improving temps.

I still need to crawl underneath and measure for a driveshaft and get that in the works. The driveshaft place here is pretty quick - they made my T5 one-pc in only a couple of days.

I have all the line and fittings to make the fuel system. AN8 from the pumps to a Y - AN 10 thru a filter and up to the front, Y into AN8 to the fuel rails, AN8 out of them to the FPR, AN8 return back to the tank. Running 1 pump off boost, both on.
 
I keep on being busy when the weather is nice. Trail building season is in full swing. The 4Runner, usually never needs any attention, but's it's needed some (swapped front diff and replaced ball joints, bushings, tie rod ends). We bought (well, more like accepted as a gift, more or less) our neighbor's '02 Highlander with a bad cylinder (30 psi on #2) - plans are to swap motors and sell it on for phat profits. And trying to sneak in bike rides. Enough excuses out of the way?

OK, got the driveshaft built and in place. Big honking 1350 u-joint up front, still a smaller one in back since they don't build anything larger that still bolts to a Volvo axle. And really, the Volvo axle wouldn't survive putting down too much torque anyhow. Driveshafts Unlimited in Arnold MO for the win. Told them what's up front, what's out back, and a measurement and a couple of days later I have a custom driveshaft. $300. w00t.

Under the hood, some tedious work that, after done, doesn't seem like much of anything happened. Mostly made up some spark plug wires that wrap around the end of the header and back over to the coils. The headers I have do *NOT leave much room for plug wires at all. You'd think whoever built them would think about that, but no. I got some cut to length Accel wires with ceramic right angle plug ends.

And wrapped the headers with some black header wrap. On the driver side there's just a lot of stuff running near them - brake lines, power steering lines, clutch line, etc.
 
John, is this the kit you're running? https://www.cxracing.com/MF-KIT-LS-MSTG7993-ONLY

Are you using STS mounts, or did you fab your own?

That is it. And I am using the first gen of the STS mounts. To make things work better on both ends (the CD009 sticking on the rear, and the turbo and crossover pipe on the front) I scooted the motor forward 1 1/4 inch using a relocator bracket that the Hummer version of the engine I'm using came with on the passenger side - I just got another one and used it on the driver's side too.

I needed to make some clearance for the turbo on the passenger side of the inner fender - and then a small ding in the crossover pipe where it got too close to the sway bar mount. But it all fit in quite nicely. All I had to do was cut and rotate part of the crossover pipe to move the wastegate a little bit.

Even the downpipe seems like it will fit nicely.
 
That is it. And I am using the first gen of the STS mounts. To make things work better on both ends (the CD009 sticking on the rear, and the turbo and crossover pipe on the front) I scooted the motor forward 1 1/4 inch using a relocator bracket that the Hummer version of the engine I'm using came with on the passenger side - I just got another one and used it on the driver's side too.

I needed to make some clearance for the turbo on the passenger side of the inner fender - and then a small ding in the crossover pipe where it got too close to the sway bar mount. But it all fit in quite nicely. All I had to do was cut and rotate part of the crossover pipe to move the wastegate a little bit.

Even the downpipe seems like it will fit nicely.

That's pretty wild, thanks for figuring that out.

Pictures of the kit aren't very clear - how's your clearance by the passenger side manifold? Think the 4th Gen F-Body A/C compressor could still fit there? Looks like I'd have to move the wastegates but how close is the manifold to the block?

Is the collector divided for twin-scroll or open?
 
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I don't think there's any room for an A/C compressor. The manifold runners drop down and come forward to a collector underneath that corner of the motor, and then the outlet drops down even further to curve up into the bottom of the merge fitting. But I haven't really looked at that too closely.

It's twin scroll, left/right sides are split, into a dual scroll turbo.
 
I don't think there's any room for an A/C compressor. The manifold runners drop down and come forward to a collector underneath that corner of the motor, and then the outlet drops down even further to curve up into the bottom of the merge fitting. But I haven't really looked at that too closely.

It's twin scroll, left/right sides are split, into a dual scroll turbo.

Thanks John, heck for the price they want for it I think it would make sense even if I scrapped the entire passenger side :lol:

Good luck with your build, this is gonna be pretty awesome when its all wrapped up!
 
I don't think there's any room for an A/C compressor. The manifold runners drop down and come forward to a collector underneath that corner of the motor, and then the outlet drops down even further to curve up into the bottom of the merge fitting. But I haven't really looked at that too closely.

It's twin scroll, left/right sides are split, into a dual scroll turbo.

Stick the ac compressor high. There are a few different types of mounts
 
Sometimes I wish I'd just gone with a supercharger. All the boost built into the valley, out of the way, just two skinny pipes to fit out on either side, the whole front end opened up for accessories. Ah well, turbos are more fun.
 
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