home register FAQ memberlist calendar

Go Back   Turbobricks Forums > General > article composition

Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 07-27-2005, 10:58 PM   #1
Board Member
ovlov760's Avatar
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Midwest - IL
Default Walbro 255 in-tank install for 21 gal tank

Walbro 255lph in-tank pump installation for 21 gallon tank 760 models.

Disclaimer:  This is for information purposes only. 

Tools:  Metric socket set, hammer, piece of wood, wire crimper, wire
cutter, multimeter (nice, but not required) , screw drivers, flared wrench set
or crescent wrench set, something to catch and block off fuel.

Parts: wire, crimp on wire connectors, electrical tape, new fuel filter,
walbro pump, higher pressure fuel line, brass barb

First this you will need to do is start your car.  Open your fuse panel
and located the in-tank pump fuse and the main pump fuse.  Simultaneously
pull both fuses and let the car die.  After the car is dead remove the keys
from the ignition and disconnect the negative battery cable.

You can start with either the in-tank assembly removal or the main pump
removal .  It really doesn't matter.  We will start with the in-tank
assembly.  Open your trunk and pull back the carpeting at the far back
drivers side.  You should find a black plate held with 4 10mm bolts. 
Remove the bolts and plate and put them somewhere safe.  Now you should see
the locking ring and the top of the in-tank assembly.  Carefully remove the
hoses and clamps and push them aside.  Cut the wires or unplug the harness
if you can.  Use a piece of wood and a hammer to loosen the plastic locking
ring enough to loosen by hand.  Remove the locking ring.

To remove the in-tank assembly pull it
out while rotating it from the six o-clock position turn the unit clockwise to
about the ten o-clock position and put it some someplace safe.  Cover the
gas tank opening so nothing gets in.  Clean the locking ring seal if you
plan to use it again.


The fuel sender and in-tank assembly you have just removed should look
something like this.  Now would be a good time to clean the corrosive stuff
off the top and inspect the fragile piping.  Set it on a clean bench so you can begin to swap
pumps.  Be careful around the metal piping because it is fragile. 
Start by removing the fuel pump hose and snipping the wires in a way they can be
reattached later.  Remove the filter sock, pump and pump holster. 
Leave the metal bracket that holds the pump holster on the sender.


Now it is time to attach the new pump.  You will need
4 hose clamps to do this.  Use two of them to secure the pump to the metal
bracket on the sender and the other two to help secure the metal bracket to the
sender.  Make sure the clamps don't interfere with the movement of the
sender though.  Attach the filter sock.  Attach the included fuel pump
hose and reconnect all the wires.  Now it is time to put the sender back in
the tank.


Shine a flashlight into the gas tank and take note of the location of the
splash shield at the bottom of the tank.  The splash guard will make it
difficult to get the sender back in as it can catch on the sending unit. 
Install it the opposite of how you got it out.  Start at the 10 o'clock
position and rotate it counter clockwise to the 6 o'clock position while letting
it fall down and in.  Make sure the gas tank seal is securely on the lip of
the opening and push the sender all the way in in the same orientation it was as
when you removed it.  Put the locking ring back on and tighten it. 
Reconnect the wires and hoses.  It may be a good idea to rewire the pump to
use the main fuel pump circuit.   To do this extend the main pumps
lead from under the car into the trunk to supply in the in-tank with power.


Now jack up the car to remove the main pump.  Remove the three 12mm
bolts and disconnect the hoses and wires.  Some fuel will spill.  What
you get should look like this.  Remove the main pump and toss it. 
Stick in a new fuel filter.  Replace the section of rubber hose under the
car going to the fuel pump with a high pressure piece.  You will need to
head to the hardware store with the hose and filter to figure out what brass
fittings you will need to go from the larger 1/2" size hose to the smaller hose
the filter uses.  Reattach everything under the car as normal.  The
outlet side of the fuel filter requires no modifications.  Start the car up
and look for leaks.


2009 XC70 T6
2011 XC90 R-design
1998 V70 AWD
1966 M-B 230
2006 V70R GT
2011 C30 T5M
2006 XC70
1997 850 T5
1988 760 Turbo

Last edited by ovlov760; 04-01-2009 at 11:25 AM..
ovlov760 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-31-2005, 02:15 PM   #2

I have no experience with this pump, but i have read here, that you absolutely need to upgrade the electric wires for the pump, as it takes a lot more current than the standard in-tank pump. If not upgraded, it will be a fire-hazard, because the wires will get hot.

I don't if it so, but that is what i have read here. It seems that you didn't upgrade, so what's the deal?
  Reply With Quote
Old 07-31-2005, 08:05 PM   #3
Board Member
ovlov760's Avatar
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Midwest - IL

I did completely rewire the pump but that was more because something was wrong with the wiring before I upgraded pumps.
ovlov760 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-02-2008, 09:40 AM   #4
Board Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: White House, TN

Yeah, thread resurrection, sorry. I'm getting ready to do this on my 760 wagon this weekend, myself. I'm assuming that there is a similar access point to the fuel pump assembly in the boot of the wagon?
Jason aka Riceboyler
2002 Volvo V70 XC
1988 Saab 900 Turbo SPG
For Sale - 1981 Volvo 242 Turbo
riceboyler is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-02-2008, 03:24 PM   #5
Board Member
lunar240z's Avatar
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: San Leandro, CA

Yeah, there is an access panel.

1991 745 TIC 15g@13psi, 3" exhaust, 3" intake, ebay intercooler, cfi injectors, 960maf, e-fan, diy strut bars, ipd sways, Plaid

2008 STi Hatch DD

1971 240 Z w/SR20ve+t, s15 6speed,vlsd,GT2871R, Tial44, diy manifolds, Vmount IC, 3" exhaust, 16" watanabes,diy coilovers, wilwood 4pistons all around project car
lunar240z is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-03-2008, 05:35 PM   #6
Board Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Atlanta, Ga

exactly what i need to see
boosted_nonv is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-06-2008, 11:17 AM   #7
Fivehundred's Avatar
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: UK

Is there a reliable way to tell the real Walbro pumps ftom the knockoffs?
Fivehundred is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-06-2008, 12:28 PM   #8
Board Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: White House, TN

Not from what I understand. There a site online (http://www.fuel-pumps.net/walbro-forgeries.html) that shows just how similar the products are. It's actually pretty scary.

BTW, thanks to the OP for this post as I just got done pulling out my sender and the pictures made it a TON easier!
riceboyler is offline   Reply With Quote

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 03:52 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions Inc.