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Questions about harvesting a donor car for 240 auto to M46 swap

M

Mathesar

New member
Joined
Feb 4, 2019
Location
Lancaster PA
Hi there. As a newbie attempting a 240 auto to M46 swap, I have combed the message boards and youtube for info before posting questions, trying to be less annoying as possible. However I am left with a few questions that can't wait for me to eventually figure out. I have tried to be concise. Thank you in advance for your patience and knowledge.

First some necessary background:

I found a non-drivable salvage car that is located 5 1/2 hour round-trip drive away from me that is headed for the crusher:

https://images.craigslist.org/00o0o_kYVFFS44lEo_1200x900.jpg

This donor car is a 1985 non-turbo 245 with M46 and B230F with 130k that supposedly had no drivetrain problems, and was driven by a mild-mannered housewife who would never abuse a transmission.

My recipient car is a 1990 245 automatic.

I paid one flat-rate price to go take everything I want off the donor car, apart from the engine. I spent a full day there, and got most of what I needed, but ran out of time and daylight, and had to leave. If I act within a few days, I can go back for more parts at no additional cost, other than fuel and another day of my time. I don't know if the the parts I didn't get are 1) Needed, and 2) Unique or expensive that would make another trip worthwhile.

Here's what I took:
- Pedal box including brake and clutch pedals.
- All the wires that had any connection to any other part I took including O/D.
- Bellhousing, M46, and shifter lever, shifter insulation pieces
- Speedometer gear & the part that bolts it onto the O/D, but NOT the cable.
- Driveshaft (both segments)
- The whole rear axle/differential
- A few odds and ends including instrument cluster. no tachometer :(

Here's what I left behind:
- Everything that was still connected to the engine after the bellhousing/transmission came off the engine. (I guess that includes the clutch plates, flywheel, pilot bearing and clip.)
- Clutch cable.
- Speedometer cable.

Question #1 - Do I need that flywheel, or is the 1985 flywheel the wrong one for my 1990 car?

Question #2 - Do I need that clutch cable, or is that readily/cheaply obtained from other sources?

Question #3 - Do I need that speedo cable, or can I use my existing one, and/or readily/cheaply obtain from other sources?

Question #4 - Any other key parts I didn't mention that I should go back for?

If I don't need to go back for any of the above, I could ask him to mail me the pilot bearing clip.
 
1. Your car needs a flywheel with trigger holes and older one does not have those(sensor in the distributor). Buy a LH2.4 flywheel from 200/700/900 and a clutch for it.
2. Yes you do. Rockauto and others sell those.
3. No. -86 and newer have electric speedo which reads from the differential.
4. You don't have to go back for these but you'll need them: Pilot bearing and clip.
 
I would just buy a new genuine Volvo clutch cable. Also buy a new pilot bearing and the clip was still available new from Volvo. But the used one is needed if you can get it.

You are also going to need a good grinder and some files to cut out the top of the bell housing so you can fit it up to your engine which has the engine speed sensor at the top. The bell housing has a thin top section to cut out for the sensor.

Other parts would be a new driveshaft bearing, support and any new ujoints needed. New trans mount. New shifter bushings. You will just cap off the speedometer output on the trans since you won't need it. I would get some connector pins from Dave Barton or even the wiring harness if yours is bad. That way you can wire in the overdrive light in the cluster.
 
How did you leave the clutch cable? When I pull transmission, I always leave the cable attached once I pull it through the firewall. You do need an lh 2.4 flywheel. Stsmaching sell these ready with the 60-2 pattern. They are about $225.

To remove the thin piece on the top of bell housing, just give it a whack with a hammer and it will break off. You can go back with a dremmel tool and sanding roll to smooth the edges.
 
Okay thanks for the info. This really helps a lot.

So, will I make my 1990 electric speedo read from the 1985 differential?
 
The issue with using the 85 axle is that it doesn't have a tone ring. Your 90 245 uses a tone ring. You would need to swap the ring gear from the 85 rear end onto the 90 differential and instal the differential into the 85 rear end.
 
Stay with your 90 rear axle. Why you should swap the rear axle? Remove the diffcover from the 1985, and with luck it is with a LSD. That would be a different thing.
Did you pick up the gearbox cross member?
Take care of the right position when mounting the flywheel. With engine at tdc the -2 of the holes should be at the starter hole.
Good luck, Kay
 
"How did you leave the clutch cable?" - I just unhooked it at both the pedal end and the trans. end and left it.

Taking in all the advice above, it looks like the only compatible parts I left behind, that didn't need to be replaced anyway, are: the clutch cable + rubber damper + washer, and the pilot bearing clip - all available from IPD for a grand total of 33.89. I think I'll skip the long trip back to the donor car, may she rest in peace.
 
mocambique-amazone said:
Stay with your 90 rear axle. Why you should swap the rear axle? Remove the diffcover from the 1985, and with luck it is with a LSD. That would be a different thing.
Click to expand...

I have seen posts that say don't change the diff with this swap, and you will get lower low gears - more fun - but higher RPM's at highway speeds. I wanted the diff from the donor car so I could maintain the the more conventional gear ratios. I haven't yet researched how to do this, so I just took the entire rear axle/diff.
 
An original used Volvo cable is going to be worlds better than what Volvo sells now. But definitely not worth the drive. You could always ask seller to pull it for you for a nominal fee since its just basically dangling on the car. You can also change gears later but if you do any highway driving you will get tired of listening to the higher rpms. I've driven a car like that, its bearable but it does get old.
 
^ This.

Did the clutch cable you left behind have a metal sheath? If so, it's far superior to the cable that's currently available.

1377669GemoClutchCable240.jpg


fullsize_16554.jpg
 
white855T said:
You do need an lh 2.4 flywheel. Stsmaching sell these ready with the 60-2 pattern. They are about $225.
Click to expand...

I just read up about lightened flywheels, and I am concerned that the STS product might be too aggressive for me. This will be for daily use. I am not into any kind or racing, but I am interested in moderate performance upgrades, to make the car more fun to drive, but not end up with something difficult for the ordinary person to drive. IOW - I should be able to lend it to my wife, who knows how to drive manual, but is used to automatic. Please advise.
 
It's a 20lb flywheel. That is not an all out performnace weight. It's a good compromise weight. However, it is lighter than even the flat flywheel. So what that means is that you rev the engine a bit more for takeoff. A full race flywheel you would want it to be even lighter like 15lbs for example.
 
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