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Starts like its on 3 cylinders, other times starts fine

I'm not sure if it's smoke or steam. Like I said it's an intermittent problem. After putting the rebuilt head back on it ran fine, no smoke or anything for the entire night I drove it. Next morning gave me trouble, as well as the next (this morning). This happened before the rebuild intermittently as well, so ambient temps between 40-70 degrees Farenheit I'd say, so probably not a correlation.

Can't say it clears up seeing I never really got it to idle, it would only start and run for less than 5 seconds at a time. Normal exhaust smell.

I didn't disconnect the TPS or IAC when I had the manifold off so not that.

I do need to do a compression test still.

I'm tied up with final exams this week so diagnosing will be slow. I plan on attempting to start it each morning, and if it is able to run around the block I will reset the codes and see if they come back. I seem to remember that the 121 code is displayed anytime you disconnect the AMM to test it, so I want to see if that code comes back after resetting.

Derrick told me months ago that the 112 code for faulty FI control unit is due to running Ostrich, any truth to that?
 
I also forgot to add that the e fan has been coming on within a few seconds of starting it each time. It revved up to 2k for 15 seconds today again then died.
 
E-fan coming on at key on isn't normal at all, leads me to question the ECT or ECU.

Got a spare ECU you can try, or a spare ECT you can try, just left in open air?
 
I don't but I can pick ones up at the junkyard. The ECT is virtually brand new. I may have the old one from the 531 head now that I think of it.
 
coalminer said:
Good advice.
See my post on 94 940 no start

steve
Click to expand...

NGK BPR7ES

I need to free up some time to diagnose this. Reading up on symptoms of a failing ECT sensor makes it seem like that. I'm hoping all that white smoke is just condensation from being ruthlessly cold here lately.
 
So I was wrong!

The TPS was not plugged in. Neither was the second ground that goes on the valve cover from that black box on the firewall behind the head. What's this box?

I plugged the TPS in as well as the second ground for that black box and it still had a lot of trouble starting, and when it did it wasn't able to idle. Nothing changed.
Do I just need to reset the codes and unplug the battery for a while or something?

Here's the black box I'm talking about, which is now grounded at two spots on the valve cover


And is this plug for EGR? I can't remember, but I did delete EGR about a year ago.
 
Got a chance to reset the codes today. Before and after the retest I was only getting 1-2-1 (Fault in FI control unit) and 1-2-3 (Signal missing to/from coolant temp. sensor) from the fuel injection system and 2-2-4 (Engine coolant temp (ECT) sensor signal absent or faulty) from ignition.

So looks like its the ECT or ECT wiring. Symptoms of these codes are difficult to start when cold or overheating which probably explains the E-fan running.
 
Just to update the thread for anyone with similar symptoms, it was the engine coolant temperature sensor. Aftermarket one **** the bed in a few months and now I have a Bosch one in.
 
Sir Psycho said:
Just to update the thread for anyone with similar symptoms, it was the engine coolant temperature sensor. Aftermarket one **** the bed in a few months and now I have a Bosch one in.
Click to expand...

save the crap one for me..I'd like to "open it up " and see if IT
FAILED the same way the one that failed on SWMBO'S 1991
244 did (the "K thermocouple" came adrift INSIDE that "shiny brass
probe" that is in the coolant...)
 
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