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Old 01-06-2017, 09:00 PM   #26
OutInWestPalm
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Again... you need to see what the 9 series guys say. It's the same motor though. B230F.

If you were swapping motors the benefit is that you get another motor that you know nothing about. Sort of a square zero where this motor might be at a square -5.

You misread about the Ford/GM swaps. They're swapping in V8's. Benefit there is you get a big motor. The Ford 302 probably being most common/straightforward.

If it makes you feel any better, I'm on my third Volvo. The one I just built I bought for $300 with a blown headgasket. It ended up being a squirter motor (which you may also have). Yanked the head, did all the things, added the turbo, and now it's pretty dang quick for a Volvo 245.

Pro's and con's in all the columns though. Figuring out why this motor is wonky is a good start.

Pull the codes, check the basics. Come back equipped with a bit more info on the situation and you'll be better equipped to make the decision.

But doing a motor swap in a Volvo isn't hard. There's an 800hp 9 series in the FS forum with a 2JZ in it for $20k if you'd like to pay to play.
Honestly, I knew it was a V8, I have no clue why I said V6. Must have had something on my mind.
I'll message you when I get more info. It seems you've done to yours exactly what I want to do to mine.
And 20k? If I had 20k these issues would be gone! Haha. And besides, pay to play isn't my style. I'm actually really excited with where I wanna take this car despite its current condition.
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Old 01-06-2017, 09:04 PM   #27
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I didn't read all of this thread but, flipping though your pictures, it looks like the lower bushing in the sway bar link is shot. Picture #3: http://i.imgur.com/yofnZPz.jpg

If you're lucky, this might be the source of the suspension clang and is cheap+easy to replace compared to the other control arm bushings. Search for something like "Sway Bar Link" or "Stabilizer Bar Link" at fcpeuro.com or rockauto.com. Roughly $10 for a link kit, or less for just the rubber bushings.
Cool! I'll look into it right now. If that's the cheapest route, I guess it'd be a good trouble shoot. But maybe not without looking into it too much. Maybe more pictures would help. I'm sorry I don't have all this info, this weekend is gonna be the first time I'm really gonna get into it.
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Old 01-06-2017, 10:50 PM   #28
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Looks like crappy rusty water in the coolant bottle, you from a warm climate? Somebody probably just had water in there and it's rusty no biggie drain and change
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Old 01-06-2017, 10:56 PM   #29
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Looks like crappy rusty water in the coolant bottle, you from a warm climate? Somebody probably just had water in there and it's rusty no biggie drain and change
This actually makes a ton of sense... I never even think of this being from up north where its suicide to run straight water. So that's a plus...

I'd still flush it out pretty good.
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Old 01-07-2017, 01:27 AM   #30
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Wondering if that crud floating around in the coolant is some type of Stop-Leak ?
Also what's going on with the oil, besides being dirty ?
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Old 01-07-2017, 09:52 AM   #31
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Looks like crappy rusty water in the coolant bottle, you from a warm climate? Somebody probably just had water in there and it's rusty no biggie drain and change
Wow, nice observation. Don't know why I didn't think of it. But yea, I'm OutInWestPalm, South Florida! The previous owner seems like the type to just throw water in and as I previously mentioned, the car had sat around for about 3 years until about a month ago.
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Old 01-07-2017, 09:52 AM   #32
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Wondering if that crud floating around in the coolant is some type of Stop-Leak ?
Also what's going on with the oil, besides being dirty ?
It's possible. And what do you mean by that? Like why is it that color?
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Old 01-08-2017, 03:04 AM   #33
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It's possible. And what do you mean by that? Like why is it that color?
Can't be 100% certain in a photo, but oil the looks a bit muddy ?
Curious, what's happening on your project ?
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Old 01-08-2017, 10:11 AM   #34
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Ahhhh lol out on palm west lol,sorry I'm a little slow. I've dealt a lot with cracked antique engine blocks and sometimes fine cracks will rust shut off you run water for the summer
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Old 01-08-2017, 02:58 PM   #35
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Can't be 100% certain in a photo, but oil the looks a bit muddy ?
Curious, what's happening on your project ?
Well I woke up a little late but I'll be getting into it today. Slapping some brake pads on it to push back the rotor issue and draining the oil/changing oil filter. Will post photos of result and whatever nightmare oozes out.
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Old 01-08-2017, 03:00 PM   #36
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Ahhhh lol out on palm west lol,sorry I'm a little slow. I've dealt a lot with cracked antique engine blocks and sometimes fine cracks will rust shut off you run water for the summer
I see. Are you suggesting the engine block may have cracked at some point and then rusted shut?
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Old 01-08-2017, 06:53 PM   #37
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http://imgur.com/a/21JOI

Will be posting interesting developments here. So far, seems a wheel has ground down the strut. Never seen this before
Got the tires balanced a week ago and started hearing metal on metal that I THOUGHT was the brake pads and rotors. Turns out it may just be the wheel...

Last edited by OutInWestPalm; 01-08-2017 at 07:03 PM..
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Old 01-08-2017, 07:18 PM   #38
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http://imgur.com/a/21JOI

Will be posting interesting developments here. So far, seems a wheel has ground down the strut. Never seen this before
Got the tires balanced a week ago and started hearing metal on metal that I THOUGHT was the brake pads and rotors. Turns out it may just be the wheel...
Nice. What wheels are/were on it? Perhaps a misplaced wheel weight... otherwise I'd have to think the car has some suspension component loose other than that swaybar end link.
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Old 01-08-2017, 07:57 PM   #39
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Nice. What wheels are/were on it? Perhaps a misplaced wheel weight... otherwise I'd have to think the car has some suspension component loose other than that swaybar end link.
There appears to be absolutely no wear on the wheel or anything on it. In hindisight though, when he rotated the tires, there was a crazy metal grinding noise which gave away the fact that the wheel was from a different vehicle.

Last edited by OutInWestPalm; 01-08-2017 at 08:32 PM..
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Old 01-09-2017, 09:30 AM   #40
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Surging idle on these cars is commonly airleaks. Smoke test is what I do at the shop. FAST.
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Old 01-09-2017, 07:38 PM   #41
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There appears to be absolutely no wear on the wheel or anything on it. In hindisight though, when he rotated the tires, there was a crazy metal grinding noise which gave away the fact that the wheel was from a different vehicle.
Did the guy that rotated the tires notice the wheel position locating pin?
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Old 01-09-2017, 08:14 PM   #42
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Nice to see a new face from florida on here!

Anyways, I have a 740 which is basically identical.

For the suspension, it looks to be that your endlink bushings are bad for the sway bar, plus the radius arm bushings below that are not in the best of shape. Way to tell is have someone outside the car watch you get on the brakes hard, if you can see both front wheels move backward under heavy braking, they will need replacement. Good news is upgraded poly ones are about $20

The cut wire in the shifter is either overdrive or neutral safety switch, leaning more towards overdrive considering they are kinda thin.

Coolant can be 1 of 2 things, rust in the block from putting straight water in or BHG. The way I knew is that I had to keep refilling the coolant tank cause the coolant would shoot out the cap regardless of what replacement cap I used.

Power steering leak looks to be a bad rack. I replaced replaced multiple racks. Took me about 30 minutes to pull at a salvage yard. Good news is it is super easy to pull one and replace it. Biggest thing is to check for fluid in the boots, that is a bad rack. I have had good luck with junkyard racks. pin and a 10mm nut and bolt to remove the coupler, 19 and 22mm to remove the PS lines, Forgot what size but the rack comes out with two bolts, both easy to access, and of course removing the outer tie rods.

For the vibration, check driveshaft alignment and / or the driveshaft center support.
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Old 01-10-2017, 10:29 AM   #43
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You can get bushings and press them in yourself (these pieces can be tricky to get off without heavy duty impact tools fyi) if you have a press, or take them to a shop and have them press the parts in for you to save some money on them doing the whole job. BEFORE you order parts,


I'd suggest getting new control arms. I've got a 20T press so for me its a moot point, but last 7XX front end I messed with new control arms were $38/side.
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Old 01-10-2017, 10:21 PM   #44
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I drove a 240 back from Atlanta with a strut on the front completely shot. Whenever I reached 50, the car would reach resonant frequency and the car would shake violently. After replacing just the struts in my driveway, the problem went away for a while, but came back and destroying the strut tube in the process. After that, I replaced not only the struts, but the bearings, hub assembly, and springs. No more gallopin' gertie!
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Old 01-11-2017, 11:53 PM   #45
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No press needed for radius bushings. There are some extra washers as well that you will need if they have not been done yet. The rear bushings on the radius arms don't go bad nearly as much. Tighten the rear control arm bolts while the suspension is loaded and not in the air.
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Old 01-13-2017, 09:59 AM   #46
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No I doubt your block was cracked that's what the water looks like after a summer tho
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Old 01-14-2017, 12:59 PM   #47
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Default Cooling system 101.

That's rusty water for coolant. SOMEBODY has been adding water instead of coolant. You will never get that reservoir clean again unless you really try, but I suggest you drain the coolant, maybe try some of that flush stuff, and it will probably take a few coolant exchanges before you ever have clean green coolant again.
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Old 01-14-2017, 08:52 PM   #48
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Seriously what is going Up with the top of the engine. The pooled oil looks like water. Are the oil drain holes plugged?
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Old 01-19-2017, 01:03 PM   #49
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Hey all, I'm back! I forgot my password and then never got around to getting back on BUT I've come back with news. There is definitely a head gasket leak without a doubt. I just replaced the back rotors and brake pads because they were beginning to rub. There is also a small leak somewhere where the exhaust pipe connects I believe but I couldn't get a good look at it. So, this Tuesday I'm gonna buy a new hsadgasket and do it myself. Then I can drain the oil and coolant at the same time and replace the two.
I was going to ask if there were any good videos on switching a head gasket on a 940, but then I felt like I would tell myself "Google it" if I saw that
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Old 01-19-2017, 01:16 PM   #50
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I used paper books to learn how to do this stuff back in the day. Now I use pro software subscriptions to read a walk through on a job I am not familiar with. Since I work on so many different cars, it is impossible to have it all memorized: the procedure, capacities, torque specs, etc.

The hardest part about the timing belt job is gonna be getting the crank pulley off. The IPD special tool is VERY VERY nice to have. Then a 3 foot section of pipe on a GOOD breaker bar and an IMPACT 24mm socket.

Then read up on timing the engine correctly. These engines aren't interference (the 8v) and so even if you mess up it won't munch the valves.

Get new bolts and oil them, clean the threads in the block with a thread chaser if you can get your hands on one, and oil the threads and torque em properly.

Also make sure the head doesn't have corrosion or cracks. Have a machine shop resurface it.
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