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240 Coilovers: The Kyote Way

FunkyStankyChicken said:
Well now onto my next question, If i was to go with revalving my HDs whats a good middle of the road spring rate front and rear for a 245 used for mostly autocross?
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depends on allot... Any weight reduction? Is it a DD? How often do you plan on autcrossing and how important is comfort to you?

I drive a stripped and gutted wagon and because im not worried about the ride i plan on going with around a 450# front spring and around a 300# rear.

Do some research and possibly go to some turbobricks meets to see if anyone has a coilover set up you can go for a ride in.

I made my decision based off of crandandals 245 and noahs 242.
 
No t brickers in my reigions scca. The car is not a DD but is street driven a fair amount. As far as weight reduction i lost the AC and have crank windows.

The importance of comfort on a one to ten is about a four is that means anything.

I Autocross as much as my wallet and car allow.
 
Does anyone have the Coleman part numbers for the front kit and the rear 5 inch sleeve and adjuster nut? The new Coleman page is a nightmare to browse.

How long springs are recommended at the front and rear?Not want a extremely low car, but a pretty low one for tarmac.
 
The part numbers for the 5" coilover kits are 420-501 and 450-501. I assume the difference is 2.04" ID versus 2.08" ID, but the catalog doesn't tell what the difference is.

I use 8" springs up front with 5" sleeves and 10" springs in the rear with 4" sleeves.

This is how it sits. Could go down an inch in the front and two inches in the rear.

0821090838a.jpg
 
crandandall said:
The part numbers for the 5" coilover kits are 420-501 and 450-501. I assume the difference is 2.04" ID versus 2.08" ID, but the catalog doesn't tell what the difference is.

I use 8" springs up front with 5" sleeves and 10" springs in the rear with 4" sleeves.
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So is the 450-501 the larger diameter? Does this size fit without doing as much grinding on the strut tube?
 
I guess it's the length of the sleeve. Does anybody know the part numbers for 5 inch springs rear? Sleeve and nut.
 
I sure would like to raise my car in the winter for better snow clearance. The low summer height isn't all that great when motoring in blizzards.
 
towerymt said:
The spring can rotate, but it's certainly not a free and easy rotation. There's a lot of friction between the upper perch and the spherical bearing. I tried small torrington bearings in the upper spring perch between the perch and the camber plate. Hypercoil hydraulic spring perches are really expensive, so I thought I'd give the larger bearings a try. They were ~$25/pr, so no big loss if they don't work out.
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They definitely work. I had severe binding on the DIY coilovers on my V70. It was so bad that on right hand turns the steering wheel wouldnt return to center by itself. The bearings cured this and did away with the binding metallic noise that coilovers are known for.

Gary
 
As far as I have seen...been told they are. I have all the coleman stuff to do this....just looking for a short strut to fit the 9 series tube. I need to get my car in garage this weekednd and tear into this.

If its a hassle finding one.....I'm half tempted just to weld a 240 tube onto my 9 unit.
 
Nathaninwa said:
As far as I have seen...been told they are. I have all the coleman stuff to do this....just looking for a short strut to fit the 9 series tube. I need to get my car in garage this weekednd and tear into this.

If its a hassle finding one.....I'm half tempted just to weld a 240 tube onto my 9 unit.
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I've got a 240 strut that's in a 940 tube (same diameter). Right now there's a ~4.25" spacer under the strut to make it snug in the 940 tube. When I go to the coilover setup I'm going to cut out ~4.25" of the strut tube and weld it back together, then slide the coilover sleeve over the tube. Hopefully their won't be a problem with the weld on the strut tube.

The other option would be to cut the top of the tube off and re thread the strut tube. This would be the safest option, but I think I'd have to pay to get the threads cut in properly. I could look for an M48x1 tap i suppose.

The spacer is just 2" sch. 80 pipe, the strut just sits on it.
(don't quote me on the 4.25" length (or size of pipe) it's been months since I installed them and I just eyeballed it anyhow.)
 
That's really good to know. I had the parts store order a 940 insert and a short saab insert and the saab insert was almost 1/8 bigger in diamter. I had them order a 240 insert that ill measure today. I just need to tear my car apart.

What 240 strut are you running.......id like to have something that short.
 
Nathaninwa said:
What 240 strut are you running.......id like to have something that short.
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I'm running a Koni 8610-1437 insert. It's the single adjustable race insert with external bump stop. I got it from Ben, he included the pipe-spacer to make it fit in the 940 strut tube.

Although you will need to get a short width top nut and a bushing to make it work with the stock top strut mount plate. The thread diameter is smaller than a factory shock (he made a small AL bushing that threads on over the shock threads to fit to the Volvo mount diameter, and not enough threads stick out to make it into the nylock portion of a regular height nut, use 2 half height nuts to lock it in place. Those aren't an issue if you're using a aftermarket strut top that's made for the 5/8"? Koni top diameter.

Part Number 8610-1437 Race
Stroke 153mm
Max L 540mm
Min L 387mm
A mm 332 <--- depth inside strut tube should be 1-4mm shorter than this number according to Koni, if it's more spacers can be used.

D mm 43.5
According to my invoice its an M48x1 gland nut

I posted in another thread about my install experience. I'm still looking for those pics.
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=218534 (I added pics to that thread to refresh it)
 
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