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Help me build up a rear end.

Pretty sure that you can use 4.10 1041 R&Ps from the non-turbo 940s in the 1031 pumpkin.

A low ratio Ford 8.8 might actually be easier/cheaper to adapt rather than paying to source old parts, then getting the whole banana set up.
 
OK, I think I am slowly getting a handle on Volvo rear ends! Sellholm in Sweden, the rally people, claim as far as 240 / 740 and 940 rear axle CASINGS go they have never seen the two rib casting to be any better , strength wise, CWP wear wise, or any other wise, than the single rib, even in big engine off road rally cars. They mentioned crown wheel and pinion size though, and I believe they said that very early 240 series may have a smaller crown wheel diameter than later cars. I believe they also said that all 740 / 940 models would, axle changes aside, have the larger crown wheel diameter and matching pinion. They may be in either a single rib or twin rib centre housing. They said so long as I found an axle casing that took the larger CWP I would be fine, as I am fitting their custom LSD in one of their new CWP's, (unless I drop on a good 3.31 ratio, used CWP), and they only needs to fit the axle casing

Do we all concur on this? That any 740 or 940, turbo or N/A will have the larger diameter, and presumably stronger, crown wheel? And that the single or twin rib centre housing casting seems to be pretty random as to what it was used on?

Thanks!
Correct.
Most 83+ USA 240's have the larger Ring and Pinion also.
 
Pretty sure that you can use 4.10 1041 R&Ps from the non-turbo 940s in the 1031 pumpkin.

A low ratio Ford 8.8 might actually be easier/cheaper to adapt rather than paying to source old parts, then getting the whole banana set up.
You can.

Ford 8.8 is kind of heavy if that's a concern for your build/goals.
 
On an unrelated note, that clutch you have is a great setup, but the pressure plate is so stiff that it bent the hell out of my pedal box and pulled weld nuts out of the firewall. After that happened, I reinforced the pedal box and swapped from a cable clutch to a hydraulic. Since you already have a 262, I ASSume you have a hydraulic setup. Once I converted to hydro, I never had any further issues.

Hjz6al.jpg


8XLQol.jpg
 
On an unrelated note, that clutch you have is a great setup, but the pressure plate is so stiff that it bent the hell out of my pedal box and pulled weld nuts out of the firewall. After that happened, I reinforced the pedal box and swapped from a cable clutch to a hydraulic. Since you already have a 262, I ASSume you have a hydraulic setup. Once I converted to hydro, I never had any further issues.

Yeah, JohnV warned me of that when I bought it from him. I have a laser CNC program set up to cut some reinforcement plates when I get around to that.

As for the 8.8, it's not off the table, but I'm so deep in my build right now I want to avoid as much custom fab work as I can until I get the whole car together and sorted out as a driver. If I keep going off on tangents I'll never get this thing done.

As of right now I'm $250 into an axle, 4.10 gears, all the rebuild bearings and an aluminum diff cover. The only things left are $200 for spherical bearings and $400 for a true trac.
 
On an unrelated note, that clutch you have is a great setup, but the pressure plate is so stiff that it bent the hell out of my pedal box and pulled weld nuts out of the firewall. After that happened, I reinforced the pedal box and swapped from a cable clutch to a hydraulic. Since you already have a 262, I ASSume you have a hydraulic setup. Once I converted to hydro, I never had any further issues.

Hjz6al.jpg


8XLQol.jpg

Thanks for mentioning this.. I just was trying to convince a guy who naturally "needed" the baddest thing out there and I mentioned you and 1-2 other guys..
Hydraulic= :godlike:


On the axle dilemme for the future Luke:
Pick-n-Pull - Tacoma [More Information]

2416 112th Street S
Lakewood, WA 98499 US

253-588-1775

Store Layout Map | Part Pricing
Make Model Year Row Date On Yard
Toyota 4Runner 95 0035 02/15/2016
Toyota 4Runner 90 0029 03/01/2016


And whatchoo talking $200 for spherical bearings? You mean rod ends?
Why so much? Getting gold-plated ones?
 
Thanks for mentioning this.. I just was trying to convince a guy who naturally "needed" the baddest thing out there and I mentioned you and 1-2 other guys..
Hydraulic= :godlike:


On the axle dilemme for the future Luke:
Pick-n-Pull - Tacoma [More Information]

2416 112th Street S
Lakewood, WA 98499 US

253-588-1775

Store Layout Map | Part Pricing
Make Model Year Row Date On Yard
Toyota 4Runner 95 0035 02/15/2016
Toyota 4Runner 90 0029 03/01/2016


And whatchoo talking $200 for spherical bearings? You mean rod ends?
Why so much? Getting gold-plated ones?

He's referring to Kaplhenke's spherical TABS, they are very nice and worth $200 to let your rear end wiggle about.

http://www.kaplhenke.com/collections/240/products/240-rear-axle-spherical-bearings
 
on the subject of the kaplhenke spherical bushings. would they be worth the investment for a daily driver? If I understand correctly they reduce binding and improve wheel control which just means a safer tighter ride for me. does anyone have experience with their long term durability? i have no doubt they are plenty strong but if they develop some slop and start rattling within a year i would be very sad.
 
on the subject of the kaplhenke spherical bushings. would they be worth the investment for a daily driver? If I understand correctly they reduce binding and improve wheel control which just means a safer tighter ride for me. does anyone have experience with their long term durability? i have no doubt they are plenty strong but if they develop some slop and start rattling within a year i would be very sad.

For a daily driver, just go with the stock rubber bushings. Only time you will feel the benefits of these is autox, track, rally or drifting.
 
For a daily driver, just go with the stock rubber bushings. Only time you will feel the benefits of these is autox, track, rally or drifting.

Or taking exit ramps at double posted speed. I have them and recommend them even for daily driving if you like your car to handle well. There's a small addtional amount of NVH but my car is extra noisy anyway so I don't really notice it. I can't vouch for their durability, it's been less than a year.
 
how long have you had them installed? I dont mind extra NVH but loose joints that cause knocking or rattling drives me batty. My goal is to spank my buddies new fiesta st. Not much of a chance ill pull it off but im sure i'll go broke trying.:lol:
 
Probably last August, one time trial day and 2 autocross's, still good, everything is tight. There's an exit ramp I can accelerate down now on the way home, errbody else slows down ;)
 
how long have you had them installed? I dont mind extra NVH but loose joints that cause knocking or rattling drives me batty. My goal is to spank my buddies new fiesta st. Not much of a chance ill pull it off but im sure i'll go broke trying.:lol:

ALL spherical bearings develop some play eventually and then you get the noise..At least you know what it is tho.:-P
 
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