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Correct.OK, I think I am slowly getting a handle on Volvo rear ends! Sellholm in Sweden, the rally people, claim as far as 240 / 740 and 940 rear axle CASINGS go they have never seen the two rib casting to be any better , strength wise, CWP wear wise, or any other wise, than the single rib, even in big engine off road rally cars. They mentioned crown wheel and pinion size though, and I believe they said that very early 240 series may have a smaller crown wheel diameter than later cars. I believe they also said that all 740 / 940 models would, axle changes aside, have the larger crown wheel diameter and matching pinion. They may be in either a single rib or twin rib centre housing. They said so long as I found an axle casing that took the larger CWP I would be fine, as I am fitting their custom LSD in one of their new CWP's, (unless I drop on a good 3.31 ratio, used CWP), and they only needs to fit the axle casing
Do we all concur on this? That any 740 or 940, turbo or N/A will have the larger diameter, and presumably stronger, crown wheel? And that the single or twin rib centre housing casting seems to be pretty random as to what it was used on?
Thanks!
Pretty sure that you can use 4.10 1041 R&Ps from the non-turbo 940s in the 1031 pumpkin.
A low ratio Ford 8.8 might actually be easier/cheaper to adapt rather than paying to source old parts, then getting the whole banana set up.
You can.Pretty sure that you can use 4.10 1041 R&Ps from the non-turbo 940s in the 1031 pumpkin.
A low ratio Ford 8.8 might actually be easier/cheaper to adapt rather than paying to source old parts, then getting the whole banana set up.
Isn't the 8.8 heavier?
On an unrelated note, that clutch you have is a great setup, but the pressure plate is so stiff that it bent the hell out of my pedal box and pulled weld nuts out of the firewall. After that happened, I reinforced the pedal box and swapped from a cable clutch to a hydraulic. Since you already have a 262, I ASSume you have a hydraulic setup. Once I converted to hydro, I never had any further issues.
On an unrelated note, that clutch you have is a great setup, but the pressure plate is so stiff that it bent the hell out of my pedal box and pulled weld nuts out of the firewall. After that happened, I reinforced the pedal box and swapped from a cable clutch to a hydraulic. Since you already have a 262, I ASSume you have a hydraulic setup. Once I converted to hydro, I never had any further issues.
Thanks for mentioning this.. I just was trying to convince a guy who naturally "needed" the baddest thing out there and I mentioned you and 1-2 other guys..
Hydraulic=
On the axle dilemme for the future Luke:
Pick-n-Pull - Tacoma [More Information]
2416 112th Street S
Lakewood, WA 98499 US
253-588-1775
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Make Model Year Row Date On Yard
Toyota 4Runner 95 0035 02/15/2016
Toyota 4Runner 90 0029 03/01/2016
And whatchoo talking $200 for spherical bearings? You mean rod ends?
Why so much? Getting gold-plated ones?
on the subject of the kaplhenke spherical bushings. would they be worth the investment for a daily driver? If I understand correctly they reduce binding and improve wheel control which just means a safer tighter ride for me. does anyone have experience with their long term durability? i have no doubt they are plenty strong but if they develop some slop and start rattling within a year i would be very sad.
For a daily driver, just go with the stock rubber bushings. Only time you will feel the benefits of these is autox, track, rally or drifting.
Correct.
Most 83+ USA 240's have the larger Ring and Pinion also.
how long have you had them installed? I dont mind extra NVH but loose joints that cause knocking or rattling drives me batty. My goal is to spank my buddies new fiesta st. Not much of a chance ill pull it off but im sure i'll go broke trying.