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Old 12-26-2017, 10:37 PM   #1
Highwater
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Default Water pump install with head off?

'93 940 Turbo, 157k miles.

Do I need to seat the mushroom-seal on a new water-pump *after* I put the head back on? Or can I go ahead and do the pump now while I wait for the machine shop? Is there any risk that I could set the new pump too high for the head to sit on the block right?

Secondary question: Is there a better way to clean the piston tops than a rag with the cylinder 3/4 up the bore? I don't have compressed air or a shop-vac, as I'm doing this in an apartment parking lot (yes, in single-digit temperatures). Looks like my one-cheeked Italian Tune-up (no-where around here to do a proper one with worn shocks) has only loosened the carbon into what look a bit like chipped paint, and I'm not sure I like the idea of those going through my *valves*, let-alone the turbo.
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Old 12-26-2017, 10:54 PM   #2
PCH
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I believe the best way is to press it against the head when it's on.
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Old 12-26-2017, 10:59 PM   #3
940wagon
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I'd definitely wait till the head is back on and torqued properly before putting the pump in.

I just did a HG and two water pump installs. I started to scrape carbon off the pistons; I made a huge mess and then gave up after .5 clean pistons.

I'd invest your time more into cleaning the deck of the block for the new HG, and cleaning/replacing anything else that is easier to access with the head off. Which is basically everything.
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Old 12-27-2017, 05:40 AM   #4
Highwater
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PCH
I believe the best way is to press it against the head when it's on.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 940wagon
I'd definitely wait till the head is back on and torqued properly before putting the pump in.
Thanks, y'all! I guess I'll wait until the head is back on (unless JVL shows-up and yells at us for being paranoid).

---------

Quote:
I'd invest your time more into cleaning the deck of the block for the new HG, and cleaning/replacing anything else that is easier to access with the head off. Which is basically everything.
Good call. I've been there, done that, and have something to add for anyone else reading this: MAKE SURE THE HEATER HOSES DON'T TOUCH THE EGR PIPE!!!

Quote:
I started to scrape carbon off the pistons; I made a huge mess and then gave up after .5 clean pistons.
I did the head gasket 6mo/10k ago (did't actually have to do it this time, but the water-pump failure made me think I did). The .5 pistons that I got clean before *I* gave up the last time is the bit where the carbon looks the most-likely to clog something. If it were a problem, I guess it probably would have been already, but I still don't like it, and I probably would have Seafoamed the thing by now if I weren't worried about it.
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Old 12-27-2017, 06:09 AM   #5
VB242
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Brake clean and fine scotch Brite will clean the piston tops.
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Old 12-27-2017, 09:24 AM   #6
brian smith
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VB242 View Post
Brake clean and fine scotch Brite will clean the piston tops.
That oughta do it. I used PB Blaster soaking overnight on the tops, then "red" scotchbrite, then when I was done cleaning, to dilute the de-greasing PB properties and to keep the rust away, I hit the tops and cylinder walls with some spray lube which may or may not have been water displacing fluid.
Freaking cold in Ithaca (and here) this week, is that tidy-looking Volvo independent shop in town worth considering patronizing? They probably have heat inside and all...
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Old 12-27-2017, 06:27 PM   #7
Highwater
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Scotchbrite, eh? I'll pick some up.

Quote:
Originally Posted by brian smith
Freaking cold in Ithaca (and here) this week, is that tidy-looking Volvo independent shop in town worth considering patronizing? They probably have heat inside and all...
Those guys are great, but they're *always* busy, and I need the car back on the road ASAP. I have two friends in the area with heated garages, but they both just moved in and are full-up with their own projects.
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