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DET17's "Project cheap thrills" - '92 944T

It was good bumping into y'all the other day. Feeling better?

What are the odds of that? Patrick says "I think that's Jared, he's been riding an old Goldwing". I'm thinking RIGHT.... and then 30 seconds later I hear it coming back :wtf:

Good to be alive! My shoulder hurts a bit, but things hurt more at my age. ;-)
 
There should be no reason why you would need to compress the spring to adjust the mount, you do need to take the load off the corner as the friction between the tower and the mount will be too high with the corner load being applied. More camber and caster is possible with these over modded stock mounts as the bearing is more offset

In my case, the BNE select mount moved with much less force with the spring mostly unloaded. Could it still be done loaded? Sure, anything is possible..... with enough leverage! Control the energy, and make it easy on yourself.

Regarding MORE CAMBER & CASTER being possible, I didn't find that to be true. My original modified stock mount (which I marked to the strut tower opening before removal) had MORE CAMBER than I was able to get in the set of slots with the BNE mount. Any adjustment you make is "bolt bound" at a point.... and I think I was there for the particular set of slots I chose. However while I lost a bit of camber, I gained a bit more caster. Calling it good enough until I get my FASTRAX installed to see what I got. I'll plan to document those measures with pics in this last hurrah thread for the 940.
 
On sealing up the bare steel -- that'll all be coated with brake dust in a very short while and if it's where I think it is, you can't see it. Little bit of paint on a brush....whatever color you like as long as it's black.
 
Yes indeedy.... it will get the paint brush "exterior black" treatment. Can't see it in position, and I'm sure it will get pretty warm in service so no rustproofing type materials.

I think I forgot to add this picture earlier..... my 95~98 BOSCH servo/booster installed. Came from a 125K mile donor, barely broken in! We'll revisit this guy when time comes to power bleed the entire system:

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Reminds me..... I need to purchase new vacuum hose to supply that booster with. NAPA or OEM? Cheaper by the foot I'm sure.
 
If you're a stickler, you can still find the fabric-wrapped vacuum lines online.

I'm no slave to # matching Volvo parts.... but they do have good quality,typically. Will search the PN and see if it's a decent value... if not, NAPA.
 
In my case, the BNE select mount moved with much less force with the spring mostly unloaded. Could it still be done loaded? Sure, anything is possible..... with enough leverage! Control the energy, and make it easy on yourself.

Regarding MORE CAMBER & CASTER being possible, I didn't find that to be true. My original modified stock mount (which I marked to the strut tower opening before removal) had MORE CAMBER than I was able to get in the set of slots with the BNE mount. Any adjustment you make is "bolt bound" at a point.... and I think I was there for the particular set of slots I chose. However while I lost a bit of camber, I gained a bit more caster. Calling it good enough until I get my FASTRAX installed to see what I got. I'll plan to document those measures with pics in this last hurrah thread for the 940.

If the spring is pushing the strut mount into the strut tower that should be true but if you have the top strut nut fastened and the wheel off the ground, there shouldn't be any difference if the spring is constrained by spring compressors or a fully extended strut.

The mount has additional offset compared to a regular strut mount with evenly spaced studs, its possible to drill it unevenly which may translate to more? You could probably also use unevenly spaced bolts in the aluminum mounts as well to get a similar result. Naturally with the adjustment method the way it is, you will trade postive caster for negative camber. That's what happens when your strut tower opening is a circle instead of a square. No matter how a strut mount is designed that will be the case unless you start cutting or settle for numbers achieved close to the center of the circle.
 
If the spring is pushing the strut mount into the strut tower that should be true but if you have the top strut nut fastened and the wheel off the ground, there shouldn't be any difference if the spring is constrained by spring compressors or a fully extended strut.

The latter comment, not true with my B&G Progressive springs. Considerably taller than IPD sports (linear springs), even with the strut at full droop (sway bar disconnected and LCA inboard bolt "loose") the B&G is still under compression.

For typical short "drop springs" and hack job cut OEMs, I'm sure your statement is correct.
 
The latter comment, not true with my B&G Progressive springs. Considerably taller than IPD sports (linear springs), even with the strut at full droop (sway bar disconnected and LCA inboard bolt "loose") the B&G is still under compression.

For typical short "drop springs" and hack job cut OEMs, I'm sure your statement is correct.

Its correct for both, when the strut is fully extended not bolted to car with a stock spring in place, where do you think that force is going?
 
My front brake upgrade has been progressing.... carved out some OVLOV time last Sunday afternoon. As I mentioned earlier, the SKANDIX mounts which adapt the later 850/C70/V70 calipers to the 7/9 strut interfered with the ABS pulse wheel. Remedied with some careful grinding & then primered:

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Nothing like summer sunshine to bake on the black enamel paint:

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The assembly of the calipers, abutment mounts, and AKEBONO ceramic pads took a bit of fiddling. Also my FCP stainless hoses had to be reclocked after I threaded them into the calipers. Thankfully Volvo did a nice job with a junction block right behind the brake assemblies so the hose and hardline can easily be disassembled & reclocked so the SS hose is not twisted in it's normal position. AKEBONO requires a moly brake lube be applied at the contact points between their pad "ears" and the SKANDIX abutment mount. I also used the Permatex purple "brake quiet" between the piston/caliper and pads. Here is the pass. side assembled:

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Well the all important fit check of wheel to spindle remained. Since the 7/9s came factory with (as small as) 15" wheels, and the stock 280mm rotors, I presumed that the 302's would clear my 16" MSW wheels. The fit check confirmed they CLEAR, but not by a bunch!

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A little difficult to make out, but the clearance between the 850/C70/V70 caliper and the ID of the MSW wheel is around 6mm.

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I think the next standard disc rotor would be in the 320~325mm OD range.... definitely a NO GO for the 16 inch wheels. My 70 Chevelle Malibu is fitted with C5 brakes all around, and the fronts with 325mm rotors similarly just clear my 17" wheels on that machine.

I'm pleased with the fitment..... you really can't run a bigger rotor setup and the 16" wheels. Those who have followed this thread will note I originally ran 17" Propus wheels, but I've stepped back to the 16" setup for reasons stated earlier.

I think the Zimmermann Sport Coat Z rotors look pretty sweet against those 16" MSWs:

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Brake bleeding will be out in the future, but I'm wrapping up the front brake work and hopefully moving into the other areas of my reconstruction (rear axle assy/LSD/fuel pump/rear subframe reinforcements).
 
Not so cheap anymore, but pretty thrilling. Great build!

I'm looking forward to hearing how you like the big brakes.

M.
 
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