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Old 02-22-2018, 07:44 AM   #226
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dang.
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Old 02-22-2018, 10:49 AM   #227
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Good thinking. Perfect solution.
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Old 02-22-2018, 11:27 AM   #228
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Slick solution, Mike
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Old 02-22-2018, 01:44 PM   #229
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Frickin' sickkk
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Old 02-22-2018, 01:49 PM   #230
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Even I'm a little surprised at how well it worked out!
Having a lot of fun figuring things out that haven't been done before.

On to the next issue, quarter windows....
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Old 02-22-2018, 03:05 PM   #231
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I don't think you can call this a 945 anymore!
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no one saw me with my little umbrella and sandpaper though.
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Old 02-22-2018, 05:02 PM   #232
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943 1⁄2 now right?
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Old 02-23-2018, 02:44 AM   #233
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Well thought out, very cool!
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Old 02-25-2018, 09:27 PM   #234
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Did some testing out of the quarter windows today. Original plan was to glue the window in, but then we started looking at locking window gaskets so it would be removable and maybe a little cleaner. I ended up buying 25' of Trim-Lok brand gasket.

Here is a cross section:


It was very pliable and easy to work with, cuts like butter with a razor blade.


It would be easier if all of the corners were rounded off like the upper left, but I think it would look to much like a porthole.


We, literally, dug out a big piece of 1/4" thick plexiglass from the backyard and made a test piece. It takes some finesse to get the window in, the $10 locking gasket tool I bought off Amazon earned it's keep. The window was a bit too big in the opening on the first try which made it more of a fight, and I'll make the final piece just a bit smaller still. Once everything is in place it works well, holds the window very firmly and will definitely be waterproof.





Plan is to try and use a combo of trimmed up window moulding pieces around the frame to blend it all in. The final window will be 3/16" grey tinted Lexan.
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Old 02-25-2018, 09:58 PM   #235
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The engineering and fabrication skills here are strong, looks like Volvo's answer to an El Camino and Ranchero. I personally wouldn't care to own either, but this, this is bad ass.
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Old 02-25-2018, 10:47 PM   #236
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Could you have glued in with urethane like factory glass?
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Old 02-26-2018, 08:25 AM   #237
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Could you have glued in with urethane like factory glass?
From post #234 -- "Original plan was to glue the window in, but then we started looking at locking window gaskets so it would be removable and maybe a little cleaner."
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Old 02-26-2018, 10:11 AM   #238
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Could you have glued in with urethane like factory glass?
Yup, one of the benefits of having taken the time to make a proper window frame. I could see using urethane for the final installation. We wanted to experiment with the gasket because I'm going to run the car around this summer in primer. When I want to finish the body and paint it I can unlock the gasket, pop out the window and be off and running. Something held in with urethane would turn that into a whole big production.
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Old 02-26-2018, 05:10 PM   #239
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Maybe you can imagine by looking at the reflection that we were able to curve the .250 Lexan to match the curve of the door glass, which is the same as the long quarter glass on the wagon.

The curved opening is the only reason why we're not cutting laminated glass (windshield), and went to plastic. Despite some beliefs to the contrary, you cannot cut tempered glass without annealing it first (cost prohibitive) - which would have been our first choice (and the original plan), just make the quarter windows out of old door or rear glass and glue them in.
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Old 02-26-2018, 06:16 PM   #240
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Maybe you can imagine by looking at the reflection that we were able to curve the .250 Lexan to match the curve of the door glass, which is the same as the long quarter glass on the wagon.

The curved opening is the only reason why we're not cutting laminated glass (windshield), and went to plastic. Despite some beliefs to the contrary, you cannot cut tempered glass without annealing it first (cost prohibitive) - which would have been our first choice (and the original plan), just make the quarter windows out of old door or rear glass and glue them in.
ah yes, the smooth and subtle curves of the Volvo 940

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Old 02-26-2018, 08:41 PM   #241
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ah yes, the smooth and subtle curves of the Volvo 940

ah yes, and on the floor in the background are the pile of leaves that were frozen to the Lexan as we dug and chopped it out of the frozen tundra with a two bladed ax. With the balance of said sheet in the background.

Just in case anyone thinks this is a big bux operation...
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Old 02-26-2018, 10:06 PM   #242
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I love the look of hand-hewn Lexan.
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Old 02-26-2018, 10:11 PM   #243
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that's the plexiglass
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Old 02-26-2018, 10:53 PM   #244
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Acrylic, polycarbonate, whatever....
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Old 02-27-2018, 11:00 AM   #245
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Acrylic, polycarbonate, whatever....
a plastic rose by any other name...
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Old 02-27-2018, 01:20 PM   #246
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(Chuckle) - prefer the polycarbonate for most apps - less scratching and easier to cut cleanly, at least in my experience.
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Old 02-27-2018, 11:22 PM   #247
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Turns out Senior had it right and that big sheet from Sunday was .250" Lexan. Know this because we grabbed a different piece of material to use today which turned out to be .220" plexiglass. Very easy to tell them apart when cutting, agree with Mike Y that the Lexan is much nicer to work with.

Tonight was quarter window experiment round 2, and it was a success. This time we made a full-frame window so we could compare the two methods. The acrylic was harder to keep a bend in, so we had to move up from the heat gun to a big kerosene jet heater to make it comply.



I could tell right away that I liked the way it was looking. It fills the window frame better and you get more glass without the gasket. We masked it up and painted a 'frit band' on the inside and I think it came out excellent.



I'm glad we have fully tested the materials and mounting methods, the right way to go has been made clear- full frame, 3/16" Lexan. It looks so good I'm probably going to end up making one for the other side to run around with this summer. I'd like to stay away from urethane until they go in for good though, so will see if I can get away with some RTV or something. Looks super clean.



Started to run out of time but we also bowed a piece of square tube to be bonded into the bottom of the hatch to close it off and give us something to build a latch off of. It's heavy though, I might have to drill a bunch of speed holes in it.



oh and check out my silly yellow fog lights! I built a nice little relay harness for the e-codes last week. I have 90/100w in the main and 100w h3's in the driving light. It blew the 20amp fuse on the high beam circuit . I used 10awg wire though, so I should be able to run the watts as long as I don't melt my Taiwan housings/sockets!

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Old 02-28-2018, 07:46 AM   #248
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At idle, measure V at the bulb vs. V at alt output. If you've got more than 1V+ difference, put 'em on relays with the big wire. Saves wear/tear on the factory switches and lumen output will be noticeable.

The rear/side 'glass' looks OEM - nice.
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Old 02-28-2018, 11:34 AM   #249
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At idle, measure V at the bulb vs. V at alt output. If you've got more than 1V+ difference, put 'em on relays with the big wire. Saves wear/tear on the factory switches and lumen output will be noticeable.
Yeah that's what I ended up doing since it worked so well on the 242. I'm pulling the juice right at the battery and just using the triggers from the stock harness. I guess the 200w of highbeam just exceeded the 20amp fuse I happened to have in the holders!

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The rear/side 'glass' looks OEM - nice.
Thanks!
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Old 02-28-2018, 01:28 PM   #250
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Yeah that's what I ended up doing since it worked so well on the 242. I'm pulling the juice right at the battery and just using the triggers from the stock harness. I guess the 200w of highbeam just exceeded the 20amp fuse I happened to have in the holders!



Thanks!
Something's amiss and or I'm confused (prolly the latter) -- if you're just using the original circuits to "trigger" the relay (energize the coil) that circuit should be pulling next to nothing through the original fuse. ??? I separately fused the big lighting load (on the new big wires) so that only the current needed to energize the relay coil goes through any of the original fuses/wires/switches. with 80W/100W and 100W I'm using 40A fuses. You can see it 'hit' the voltage gauge when the egg-friers come on.

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