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Just Can't Stay Away 1972 142S

I swapped out plugs, wires cap, rotor and points and the car still runs!! The ones I took out look like they were last replaced sometime in the Carter administration so I think the car will be a lot happier with the new ones.



I'm not sure why #1 would be running leaner than the rest of them. Is that something to worry about?

Next up is to clean and tune the SUs. This should be exciting because just like with setting points, I have very little knowledge about SUs.
 
Hey buddy. Pat here with the clean 780 bertone (burgundy). Your car looks fantastic. If you need shop manuals or anything let me know. I got a mint 69 142s as well. Welcome to the 142 club!!!
 
Hey buddy. Pat here with the clean 780 bertone (burgundy). Your car looks fantastic. If you need shop manuals or anything let me know. I got a mint 69 142s as well. Welcome to the 142 club!!!

Thanks Pat! I remember your 780 but I don't think I've seen your 142 build thread.

I bought a Haynes so I can probably limp by with that. If you have parts or wheels I will be reaching out in the near future.
 
Apparently SUs like to have "oil" in their reservoirs in order to run "right". Who would have known that... I just got back from a little jaunt around the city and the car seems pretty happy with all its new parts and some oil in its carbs. When I opened them up the piston was almost completely dry.



I wouldn't say it runs perfect but it seems pretty damn happy.

Now I'm not sure if I want to run the SUs or the special surprise I bought for it that should be arriving in the mail today?
 
So I picked a few more parts up and I am planning to do the Weber conversion. It will clean up the engine bay and simply tuning.

I got the IPD kit with the jet kit and then found a dual output P1800es exhaust manifold. When the manifold arrives I will strip it all down and hope it will all bolt together.

Until then, I have this thing just sitting around staring at me:

 
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Still waiting for the new exhaust manifold to show up but I wanted to make sure the weber was ready to go. I dropped a vacuum port down the exhaust so that ended up taking up most of the time I spent on the car today.



After that was sorted I put on this new shift knob that I found while reorganizing my tools because my awesome girlfriend got me a little present.:




 
nice 142! you have my favorite year grill. funny how ive had some of the same issues as you.

are you really going to put that weber kit on? i just took mine off and went back to SUs... best swap so far.

i totally spaced out about the projects section. ill start one soon of my 144

HAVE FUN
 
That downdraft weber is a downgrade if the su's work fine I would leave them.

I have heard opinions that its an improvement and that they are terrible. I think it mostly has to do with how well you can get the weber tuned vs what sort of shape the SUs you removed were in. The SUs are original so like 250k miles. They need a full rebuild and the price for this weber kit was less.


Plus I like how the single carb simplifies the look of the engine bay. If it really is that bad to drive with, I will start rebuilding the SUs and swap them back.
 
EDIT: I SEE you have HIF carbs. Not HS. Those should last longer (throttle shaft bushing wise) than HS carbs.


Here's a few notes from a slight newbie when it comes to b20... I learned the hard way

Your going to need to buy a fuel pressure regulator for that weber. A high quality one at that. No kragens junk

#2 a big jet kit to get it right. mine was jetted huge compared to stock and still pinged without retarding the timing

#3 you will also need to run a intake coolant line for the winter (I disconnected mine in the summer)

You will get a constant sucking sound from the single barrel wanting more fuel and air.

Intake manifold was designed for a b18 not b20

You can get your carbs done for cheaper than 600... I found a guy who does rebuilding and new bushings, shafts for under $300. Redwood chair Gabe me his info. He even made a blog site showing his setup and him working on a carb. He said he pays way less than what we can for the real SU carb kits so for the price it's a good deal.

I pulled a set of SUs off a junkyard car and have been running them for over a week now no problems.

The progressive is a pain to tune because you have to take it apart for jetting. I love how simple the SUs are.

If anything I'd say sell the brand new progressive and buy a synchronized non progressive 38mm weber.




I have heard opinions that its an improvement and that they are terrible. I think it mostly has to do with how well you can get the weber tuned vs what sort of shape the SUs you removed were in. The SUs are original so like 250k miles. They need a full rebuild and the price for this weber kit was less.


Plus I like how the single carb simplifies the look of the engine bay. If it really is that bad to drive with, I will start rebuilding the SUs and swap them back.
 
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Thanks for these pointers on getting the weber set up. Still waiting for my dual port exhaust manifold to materialize from ebay. I have been putting together a little suspension package while I wait.

After talking with AndrewNance I ordered a set of 5x7 800# front springs along with Carrera shocks. In the rear I am going to do KYB Gas-a-justs and 5x8 250# springs. I still need to determine if Kaplhenke adjustable perches will work on my car.

Today I ordered some wheels that will either look really bad or actually okay. Should be able to determine that next week!



EDIT: I SEE you have HIF carbs. Not HS. Those should last longer (throttle shaft bushing wise) than HS carbs.


Here's a few notes from a slight newbie when it comes to b20... I learned the hard way

Your going to need to buy a fuel pressure regulator for that weber. A high quality one at that. No kragens junk

#2 a big jet kit to get it right. mine was jetted huge compared to stock and still pinged without retarding the timing

#3 you will also need to run a intake coolant line for the winter (I disconnected mine in the summer)

You will get a constant sucking sound from the single barrel wanting more fuel and air.

Intake manifold was designed for a b18 not b20

You can get your carbs done for cheaper than 600... I found a guy who does rebuilding and new bushings, shafts for under $300. Redwood chair Gabe me his info. He even made a blog site showing his setup and him working on a carb. He said he pays way less than what we can for the real SU carb kits so for the price it's a good deal.

I pulled a set of SUs off a junkyard car and have been running them for over a week now no problems.

The progressive is a pain to tune because you have to take it apart for jetting. I love how simple the SUs are.

If anything I'd say sell the brand new progressive and buy a synchronized non progressive 38mm weber.
 
The exhaust manifold arrived today and I got to test fit it.



Now I see what all the fuss about milling the exhaust manifold down 1/8" is about



Short of actually taking it to a machine shop I should be able to grind it down to match the surface level of the intake right?
 
Bolted up the intake manfold with the newly fabbed washers.

The IPD instructions simply say to run the vacuum line from the vacuum advance on the distributor to the port on the back side of the carb. What about all the lines going to the charcoal canister?



Just because I was curious, I fired it up with all that disconnected and after a false start with the choke cable it started right up and idled!!



Mister Pants won't be sleeping on the roof for much longer

 
junk all that charcoal canister nonsense.

Bolted up the intake manfold with the newly fabbed washers.

The IPD instructions simply say to run the vacuum line from the vacuum advance on the distributor to the port on the back side of the carb. What about all the lines going to the charcoal canister?



Just because I was curious, I fired it up with all that disconnected and after a false start with the choke cable it started right up and idled!!



Mister Pants won't be sleeping on the roof for much longer
 
i know its too late for you but the fuel injected exhaust manifolds are 3/4 thick and mate perfectly with the cannon/weber intake.

i had to use step washers on my SU aluminum intake to mate up with my FI exhaust manifold

Now I see what all the fuss about milling the exhaust manifold down 1/8" is about
 
junk all that charcoal canister nonsense.

Roger that! I have read that I can just cap the tube from the gas tank with a bosch inline filter and remove the lines and canister.

I finished fitting the 5x7 800lb springs today and my wheels arrived at the same time.



*not my expedition but parking next to it does make the car look even lower.

I plan on ordering rear springs to even out that rake but I wanted to see what it would look like tonight.
 
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