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B&G Springs A+, Turbo Bars C-

T

Ttownthomas

New member
Joined
Feb 1, 2015
Location
Cary, NC
I recently replaced pretty much the entire suspension.

B&G Springs, Kaplehenke Strut Mounts, Billsteins Up Front, Gas-a-just KYB's in Back, A bunch of Super Pro Poly, and I boxed in the control arms and trailing arms.

I am happy with everything except the sway bars. They are reportedly 23mm front bars and something like 19 in the back. Way too much body roll still.

I assume the way to go is 25mm IPD front and rear bars. Is there another option?

IMG_4873 by ttownthomas, on Flickr

Build Thread: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=307077&page=8
 
wagonfan00 said:
See what size diesel sway bars are...maybe 26mm for the weight of the motor
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It's an aluminum block LS. Block only weighs 80 pounds more than the redblock. I'll bet overall weight is similar.

IPD Bars are 1 inch so I assume that's a full 25.4mm. Thanks for the tip on the Diesel, I'll look into that.
 
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B&G springs will leave a lot of body roll. 23/19 is a decent combo.

you dont want a 25mm rear bar.

I wouldn't recommend larger than what you have in the rear.
 
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Ttownthomas said:
It's an aluminum block LS. Block only weighs 80 pounds more than the redblock. I'll bet overall weight is similar.

IPD Bars are 1 inch so I assume that's a full 25.4mm. Thanks for the tip on the Diesel, I'll look into that.
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I'm just down the block in Raleigh... would love to check this thing out sometime. Also... be advised, everyone says that the 25x25 bars promote mad oversteer.
 
Your problem is the springs and dampers you picked. Those are designed to make the car feel like a less ancient regular car. Ie, too soft.
 
blkaplan said:
B&G springs will leave a lot of body roll. 23/19 is a decent combo.

you dont want a 25mm rear bar.

I wouldn't recommend larger than what you have in the rear.
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Harlard said:
Your problem is the springs and dampers you picked. Those are designed to make the car feel like a less ancient regular car. Ie, too soft.
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Suspension is such a feel thing. Obviously a lot of trial and error and you never know the poster's perspective. I was worried they would be too harsh.

Would IPD have been a better choice? Or are you saying I should have done coilovers? This is my first rodeo :) Every other fast car I have ever owned came from the factory that way.
 
Redwood Chair said:
Not really spring rate has more to do with wire diameter and wire length than a couple of close wound almost dead coils.
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Ugh. Have owned and driven lots of fast cars but this is my first foray into building one.

Would like it to have stiffness and compliance between a E39 BMW 540 sport and E39 M5.
 
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Ttownthomas said:
Ugh. Have owned and driven lots of fast cars but this is my Foray into building one.

Would like it to have stiffness and compliance between a E39 BMW 540 sport and E39 M5.
Click to expand...

You'd have to try pretty hard to find a worse starting point, maybe sell it and go back to bimmers?

Or just plunk down the cash for one of the new brutally fast Dodges?
 
Coilovers with reasonable spring rates are what you need.

If those springs are progressive that doesn't really have anything to do with their primary rate.
 
Ttownthomas said:
Is that because they are progressive rate?
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Straight from the B&G site, reference the S2 spring line:

Incorporating a progressive rate design allows B&G lowering springs to offer higher rates for improved road hold, less body roll, reduced squat under acceleration and less front end dive under heavy braking while maintaining a comfortable ride.

Lowering spring applications from 0.5 ? 2.5 inches

Progressive spring rate design to maintain ride quality while improving road feel and handling

Cold wound from high tensile chromium silicone wire and individually super blocked and computer tested against tight tolerances

ISO9001, QS1400, and TUV Certified


http://b-gsuspension.com/s2-springs
 
Redwood Chair said:
You'd have to try pretty hard to find a worse starting point, maybe sell it and go back to bimmers?

Or just plunk down the cash for one of the new brutally fast Dodges?
Click to expand...

I have a 911 Turbo in the garage next to the Volvo. The Volvo is about the journey. It's fun to start with a $350 car and make it into something. Goal is to learn along the way
 
Harlard said:
Your problem is the springs and dampers you picked. Those are designed to make the car feel like a less ancient regular car. Ie, too soft.
Click to expand...
If I am not mistaken, wouldn't the larger sway bars help compensate for body roll while allowing a somewhat compliant spring rate to not beat one to depth under normal driving? I would say as long as the dampers are matched to the springs, sway bars would help.
 
PeaceEngineered said:
If I am not mistaken, wouldn't the larger sway bars help compensate for body roll while allowing a somewhat compliant spring rate to not beat one to depth under normal driving? I would say as long as the dampers are matched to the springs, sway bars would help.
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Too large a bar will limit suspension travel, making the ride of the car jarring and skittish.. Think of sway bars as torsional springs that bind one side to the other.

This effect is much more evident in the rear than the front of the car. A good all-around setup for a street car regardless of spring rate, dampening, or ride height is 25mm front, 0-19 rear.
 
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