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brake noise?!!?!? please help

Mugenjibz

New member
Joined
Feb 8, 2006
Location
OH
ok this is driving me absolutely insane. My 740GL wagon has been making a loudd squealing noise from the back upon braking down from highway speeds. sometimes it doesnt do it, but most of the time it does, a loud continuous squeal that increases in volume as i get closer to a full stop. it used to come from both front and rear rotors, but after changing the fronts the noise continued to come only from the back. Today, i changed my rear rotors and pads, thinking it would fix the problem, but on the way home the noise started again, nearly as loud as before. I cant figure out where the metal to metal contact point is. has anyone else had a similar experience or can hazard a guess?

thanks
 
My diagnosis is that you're driving a Volvo with the same ATE rear caliper that most pre-Ford Volvos had.

They're a noisy bastard of a thing, and there's not much you can do about it.

OE pads are your best bet if you want quiet at any expense.

Damping shims on the pads are the only reliable fix I've found on aftermarket pads.

tim
 
The Bentley manual mentions something about proper piston orientation. Myself, I've had no problems with PBR Ultimates + shims in the rear. Actually, I'm running them on all four corners and they're pretty damn quiet.
 
thanks for the replies guys...i ended up trying a few diff. combinations of aftermarket rotors, pads, proper shims and some antisqueal and i figured it out. phew.
 
lol death by wd40?

looks like i spoke too soon...

after only 3 days of quiet stopping, the squeal started up again today. i shud add it only happens after long drives, but with every trip it gets more and more frequent....

i guess ill have to try some OE pads, but are there any other solutions that u guys have in mind?

thanks again
 
volvo pads.

oem volvo pads. that will take care of it, provided you have decent rotors. there may be someone else who will try and convince you that you just have to live with it, and get used to it, but its not true. put a set of factory volvo pads on it, and you wont regret it.
 
Page 510-5 in the Bentley manual:

12.) On ATE calipers, check piston position. To avoid brake squeal, the piston should be oriented so that the chamfer on each piston form a 20deg angle with the lower surface of the caliper. Fig. 9 and Fig. 10 show the Volvo special tools used to check and adjust the angle.

Tools 2919 and 2918 are shown, and they indicate 20deg +- 2deg will help eliminate squeal. Timay didn't you indicate notching the pad might help?
 
Timay didn't you indicate notching the pad might help?

I killed the rear noise by using an adhesive shim with notches out of the sides, and not as "tall" as the pad. It's an off-the-shelf shim from my shim supplier (http://www.rubore.com), who are based in Kalmar, so probably know a thing or two about Volvo rear squeal.

It takes months and months for these things to flow through materials sourcing, production and distribution, but eventually all PBR and Axxis pads will have this shim, and they'll all STFU.

tim
 
It takes months and months for these things to flow through materials sourcing, production and distribution, but eventually all PBR and Axxis pads will have this shim, and they'll all STFU.

So where can we buy these sooper quiet shims now? My rears with PBR Ultimats have started squeaking(!) at around 15mph.
 
my brakes dont squeal.

you guys crack me up.:rofl: brake squeal just aint that hard to fix on these cars, boys. believe me, our customers wont put up with it, and therefore we must be able to do brakes on these cars, without noise issues, consistently and reliably. there are bigger fish to fry in the volvo service and maintinance world than squeaky brakes. there is a way... i promise. not complicated, not magic, no special super secret parts needed.:-D
 
you guys crack me up.:rofl: brake squeal just aint that hard to fix on these cars, boys. believe me, our customers wont put up with it, and therefore we must be able to do brakes on these cars, without noise issues, consistently and reliably. there are bigger fish to fry in the volvo service and maintinance world than squeaky brakes. there is a way... i promise. not complicated, not magic, no special super secret parts needed.:-D


Do tell do tell
 
i have.

i have, many times. here's the formula: if you are serious about no brake squeal...
1. buy a set of current oem pads. not this brand, or that brand. (unless you want noise and chatter)
2. get decent rotors. either turn them, if they are sufficiently thick, or replace them with volvo oem rotors. (i cant say about aftermarket rotors, i know volvo's work)
3. when you install the new pads, clean the insides of the caliper. clean the slider (or retainer) pins. get all the rust and brake buildup off them.
4. make sure the caliper pistons arent frozen or excessively tight. if they are, remedy as needed.
5. install the new pads, using the supplied shims, if they came with shims. some do, some dont. apply a conservative ammount of ptfe grease, to the backing plate of the pads, between pad and shim. apply a little directly to the back of the shim as well. if the pads dont come with shims, just apply a little ptfe to the pad backing plate. volvo has an excellent ptfe for this application, it is pricey. any decent ptfe based grease will do, i would think.
6. if you really want to do the braking system a favor, flush it! use a power bleeder, and flush out the entire system, through each caliper, and change out the old, beat up fluid to new clean fluid. this helps the overall braking performance, reliability, and longevity, and is often neglected.

guys, i will be very suprised if you do this, to the letter, and still have brake squeal issues. we do them here in the dealership this way, and ours work fine. i have several cars in my circle of family and friends that dont have braking issues. we have cars come in with all types of brake noises, including but not limited to squeal, and you know what? we pull all sorts of funky looking aftermarket brake pads off of them, and then fix the car, in the manner i detailed above. they dont come back. until later, when they want something else done. but it aint for brake noises.

if you just flatout have a problem with the dealership, or factory parts, i cant help you. do whatever you think will work. and i know some people have it figured out with whatever other combinations i know nothing of. but... when you get tired of playing jick jack, and pissing away money and effort and time in vain trying to get rid of brake noises, there is a way to do it, and be done with it. good luck.
 
Honestly, I'm not sure why people have so much trouble with volvo brakes. I've always gone PBR pads and brembo rotors (i don't believe in turning rotors personally). Slap a little anti-squeal on all the corners and on the piston contact point, bingo. No squeal. What are people doing different than that? AFAIK, squealing is just when the pad vibrates against the pad holder/anything loosely contacting the pad?
 
you said, "there's not much you can do about it". bull****, pal. and there is a little more to it than just buying the pads, and putting them on.

folks have always had problems with brake noises, it seems. and from time to time, folks post on here about that, wanting to know how to fix it. you seem to have the attitude that one simply must learn to live with it, and get used to it. you blame the caliper. as i said, bull****, pal. we fix them all the time. blaming the caliper for the noise is akin to blaming the seal for the leak, all the while running with a bad pcv system. general analogy, but very similar.
 
+1.. i've never needed these dampening pads either. just the OE shims (and i've lost those before, and still done a successful quiet brake job.)
 
bull****, pal
bull****, pal
bull****, pal
blah blah.

Are you done yet?

Good.

Allow me to introduce myself. I'm Tim. I'm the engineer responsible for all technical aspects of PBR and Axxis brake pads in the US market, and all Bendix and Axxis brake pads sold in the Australian and Asian markets.

Before putting on the aftermarket hat, I was the NVH engineer for 4 years, doing nothing but brake noise, with a fleet of test cars and a couple of million bucks worth of brake noise measuring equipment at my disposal.

I know a thing or two about brake noise.

You have almost certainly changed more Volvo brakes than I have. Your hands-on Volvo-specific knowledge is superior. Most of the work I've done has been on current (and future) model OEM brakes, and on the bigger selling references in the local aftermarket, and I spend most of my time in front of a computer or spectrum analyser rather than getting my hands dirty.

DB2, the pad that fits the ubiquitous Volvo rear (and also various MBZ, Alfa Romeo and a Ferrari or two), ranks about 100th on sales volume. It's not a big moving reference. But it's top 10 on noise returns. It's a notoriously noisy brake. There are reasons for this, and I'll go more into that later.

I'll tell you a couple of other notoriously noisy brakes. The 1996-2006 Holden Commodore rear (which you guys got on the GTO). The current model Perodua MyVi in Malaysia. The Mazda3 rear (until they changed the caliper anchor bracket late last year). I shouldn't mention the rear brake of current model Commodore V8s (same as will be on the Pontiac G8 V8s), but I just did.

Other brakes are far less fussy. Whatever you do to them, they're quiet. It's a brake specific thing. The tendency for Volvo rears to be noisy is specific to that brake, but not unique.

Brake noise is started and energised by the friction between the pad and rotor, but it's radiated by the rotor. The top image/animation on http://www.polytec.com/int/158_427.asp shows a scanning laser-doppler vibrometer measurement of a brake rotor in a squeal mode. I have my own disks full of that stuff of my own pet brakes.

The rotor will only go into resonant vibration - and therefore squeal - if it can modally lock with another component, and go into sympathetic vibration. The two components vibrate together at the same frequency, feeding energy back into each other. They can do this if they have natural frequencies (eigenfrequencies) that line up. All solid objects have several natural frequencies. Rotors (and other things shaped the same - cymbals, gongs, bells etc.) have many of them.

If the modal locking is between the pad and the rotor, it's pretty easy to break by changing the natural frequencies of the pad. Changing stiffness. Simple stuff.

If the modal locking is between the rotor and the caliper, it's nasty. The pad initiates the vibration, and then it's just along for the ride while the rest of the brake vibrates around it. That's where you have a serious noise problem that is very difficult to fix.

I have only done a little bit of work on the Volvo brake, because it's not a priority to fix...compared with the others I've mentioned. We're OEM on the Commodore (I've ordered and analysed more tests on that brake than I care to think of), and it's our #4 selling aftermarket reference. The Perodua is Malaysia's #1 selling car right now. Mazda source most of their "genuine" spares for Australia from us, including the 3, which is their best selling model (and was noisy even with OEM pads, prior to the anchor change).

The Volvo...well...it wouldn't have had a look in, except that I drive one and noisy brakes annoy me. And I'm in the unique position of having an unlimited supply of free pads to play with, and half a clue about the engineering principles involved.

Changing the pad stiffness didn't change anything. Most importantly, the squeal was at the same frequency - indicating that it wasn't modal locking with the pad. Changing the centre of pressure and contact geometry didn't work. Different materials give different amounts of noise, but that's quite normal (different vibration excitation and material damping). A few different shims did some good, and I went with the best of them...which happens to be an off-the-shelf item from our supplier in Sweden, which indicates that it's used in big volume by somebody else, which may be somehow tied in with an OE or a genuine spares contract. I've had our noisiest material on my car for about a year now with these shims, and I occasionally get a very light squeal - the shim absorbs most of the vibration energy.

Anybody supplying pads direct into Volvo will have done a heap of testing and development, in order to meet Volvo's corporate brake noise specs. Contract obligation to meet noise specs aside, when you have that kind of guaranteed production volume (and cost margin), you can afford to spend some testing resource to find a noise solution. So, no question, pads in a Volvo box WILL be quiet, otherwise they wouldn't be in a Volvo box.

By comparison, I have about 1500 aftermarket part numbers to look after. I haven't even tested the noise of most of them, and I'm not going to. Same with every other aftermarket manufacturer. I'm sure some of them are awful noisy. I have no choice but to rely on warranty returns to identify the problem parts, and if it's enough of a problem, source a vehicle and do some testing.

Your comments about doing a decent brake job are valid, but I would consider that a prerequisite. If your calipers and rotors are in crap condition, you have no hope. Who knows how that rotor will vibrate if it only has one pad actively pushing on it? It wasn't designed for that, and nobody ever tested it. Here's a quality write up of how to do a good brake job: http://www.bendix.com.au/HowToFitBrakePads.aspx . Hey, I think I know the guy who wrote that. Must remember to add some pics one day.

So, this has become an epic post. In summary:
* some brakes are inherently noisier than others.
* Volvo rear is one such brake.
* Solving brake noise on a problem brake takes time and resources.
* OE or OES pads will have been tested and had effective noise fixes designed for them.
* Most aftermarket pads don't get the attention they need.
* Nothing was designed to be quiet on a flogged out rotor and seized caliper.

tim
 
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