More bewst from LPT 2.4?

The car in question is a 98 V70 AWD with the 2.4 lpt motor. The 13G turbo was replaced with a 13T.

It would be nice to have a bit more power now that I'm done with stage 0. I wondered if I could get this cheaply with the ECU and fuel injectors out of a 70 series T5 model? Any good reason why this won't work?

IIRC the 13T is pretty similar to the 15G.

After looking back at some nearly ten year old theads, I think I can actually do this. It would be better if the car had a 16T but I think the 13T will do fine at stock T5 boost levels.

The 13T is very similar to the stock 13G.

You have motronic 4.4 right?
You can easily remap the "target load" maps for some more boost and load the modified software into your computer. I have used this method on my T5: http://m44.wikia.com/wiki/ECU_Flashing

If you want to use the T5 software, consider this:

1: Compression ratio is a little higher on the lpt so the ignition map might be a little aggressive for a lpt engine.
2: The turbos are different, so the target load maps and pilot maps might not be suitable to use with the smaller turbos.

If I were you, I would modify the target load maps so your boost increases to approx 1 bar. Whatever you do, you do NOT want the boost kicking in at low rpms! This will kill connecting rods of the whiteblock engines. Instead, you want to add target load at engine speeds of 3000+ rpm to keep things safe. More information is on the M4.4 wiki.

Also, make sure to monitor AFRs with a wideband.

Good luck and let us know how it went.

I do have M4.4. I don't have an ECU that's modified like vast sells.

What's not completely clear to me in that article is if putting a charger on the car is enough, or if I also have to mess with pins on the ECU.

ovlov760 said:

I do have M4.4. I don't have an ECU that's modified like vast sells.

What's not completely clear to me in that article is if putting a charger on the car is enough, or if I also have to mess with pins on the ECU.

Click to expand...

I flashed it removed from the car. You need a cheap vagcom(ftdi) cable, you do not need a modified ecu.

Remove the ecu from the car. Connect it as shown in the diagram. I used a 15V laptop power supply, and the female connectors from standard bosch plugs to connect to the ecu.
It is very straightforward.

I went ahead and popped the T5 computer in my car. It did bump the boost up to 9-10psi which seems to help with top end grunt.