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Old 10-16-2019, 11:44 AM   #1
fatcatbestcat
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Default DCOEs on a B20... help?

Right... I just bought one a manifold and linkage kit from Redline.

The carbs fit fine and seem to line up great, but the studs are too long, and you can see the non-threaded part in the middle of the studs



Has anyone here used a Redline kit before? If so, I have so many questions. The kit didn't come with any instructions, and I can't find any on their website.
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Old 10-16-2019, 11:44 AM   #2
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Wow, that image uploaded a lot bigger than I expected.
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Old 10-16-2019, 11:47 AM   #3
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You're missing the vibration isolation bits. DCOE's are sensitive (I guess?) to vibration, so there's a pretty fat gasket between the carb and manifold, and big fat rubber washers between the nut and the carb on the other side. All that uses up that space. Or should.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Weber-Redli...-/331508442543

That kit uses springs on the nut side, but same concept. Let the carb 'float' a little and not vibrate around with every little engine movement.
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Old 10-16-2019, 11:56 AM   #4
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And I got my DCOE's used on eBay. A whole setup, carbs, manifold, linkages. The linkages were just a collection of six-sided rods, levers, and arms. My first attempt at setting that up was HILARIOUSLY bad. Push the throttle down 1/4 of an inch, ALL THE HORSEPOWERS! Laughably undrivable. I spent a while trying to make sure the initial part of the pedal movement opened the carbs as little as possible. Those DCOE's have a very sharp throttle response.
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Old 10-16-2019, 12:07 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnMc View Post
You're missing the vibration isolation bits. DCOE's are sensitive (I guess?) to vibration, so there's a pretty fat gasket between the carb and manifold, and big fat rubber washers between the nut and the carb on the other side. All that uses up that space. Or should.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Weber-Redli...-/331508442543

That kit uses springs on the nut side, but same concept. Let the carb 'float' a little and not vibrate around with every little engine movement.
Alright, I'll be sure to order a set of those. While you're here, can you tell me what these threaded ports are for?

Last edited by fatcatbestcat; 10-16-2019 at 12:08 PM.. Reason: wrong image
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Old 10-16-2019, 12:16 PM   #6
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those are vacuum ports. One is probably for the PCV fitting (if you have one), the other for the vac retard on the distributor (if you have one) - NOT for the vac advance (a bit more common).
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Old 10-16-2019, 12:41 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnMc View Post
those are vacuum ports. One is probably for the PCV fitting (if you have one), the other for the vac retard on the distributor (if you have one) - NOT for the vac advance (a bit more common).
Interesting. The smaller threaded holes don't lead anywhere, they just end. So I guess I can just get a stud and block off the larger one?
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Old 10-16-2019, 02:34 PM   #8
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The small ones, IIRC M8 thread, are for the linkage. The bigger one is to the brake servo. If your car isn't with a brake servo you can use a screw. Take care, this will be a conical thread.
The split washers from the kit ate b*** s*** in combination with alloy. Don't use them at the side of the carb. Even this very very cheap self locking nuts are only garbage. Useless.
You will need a support bar for the carbs too. And a good filter system. Don't run them with cones or crap like this in the hot engine bay.
Which came did you choose?
And the ignition? Do you have the matching dizzy? Or a 1-2-3?
Good luck, they sound amazing, very good throttle response, less mpg and a pita to get them proper running if you won't have experience or a very good support.
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Old 10-16-2019, 02:43 PM   #9
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These are solex carbs?
And the acceleration pump is disconnected?
Parts, emulsion tubes especially, are hard to find if these are solex.....
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Old 10-16-2019, 02:51 PM   #10
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We strongly suggest avoiding ANY style of soft mount that has removable/replaceable o-rings. Over time, the o-rings swell and won't stay in the grooves and cause vacuum leaks.

We sell soft mounts that have the o-rings bonded to the plate.

http://hiperformanceautoservice.com/...oducts_id=1430

The large hole in the #1 intake runner is a vacuum source for PCV and a brake booster, while the other holes are for heim joints for linkage and they aren't metric. IIRC they are 5/16" UNF.
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Old 10-16-2019, 03:11 PM   #11
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My bad, I glanced at it briefly. Yeah, those are def for the throttle shaft supports. Unlike the stock setup (in many old carbed cars) where the shaft is supported in the middle of the manifold on one end, and on a firewall mounted pivot on the other - the DCOE's have both supports on the manifold, and it all wiggles in relationship to the rest of the car. But the general movement of the motor vs. the body (where the end of the gas pedal lever pokes out) is pretty neutral in terms of that actuating the throttle.

My crusty DCOE setup:
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Old 10-16-2019, 03:30 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnMc View Post
My bad, I glanced at it briefly. Yeah, those are def for the throttle shaft supports. Unlike the stock setup (in many old carbed cars) where the shaft is supported in the middle of the manifold on one end, and on a firewall mounted pivot on the other - the DCOE's have both supports on the manifold, and it all wiggles in relationship to the rest of the car. But the general movement of the motor vs. the body (where the end of the gas pedal lever pokes out) is pretty neutral in terms of that actuating the throttle.

My crusty DCOE setup:
Ah! That makes sense. I saw a comment worrying about my lack of parts on the carbs. They are, in fact, Solex DDH 40s, and I have a bunch of parts for them. Worst case, I just use them to mock up my linkage and get a more complete set if any parts cause me trouble.
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Old 10-16-2019, 03:33 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by planetman View Post
We strongly suggest avoiding ANY style of soft mount that has removable/replaceable o-rings. Over time, the o-rings swell and won't stay in the grooves and cause vacuum leaks.

We sell soft mounts that have the o-rings bonded to the plate.

http://hiperformanceautoservice.com/...oducts_id=1430

The large hole in the #1 intake runner is a vacuum source for PCV and a brake booster, while the other holes are for heim joints for linkage and they aren't metric. IIRC they are 5/16" UNF.
Right...the heim joints that came with my kit DO NOT fit in the holes.
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Old 10-16-2019, 08:18 PM   #14
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First Webers are Webers and Solex are Solex, they are similar but not the same. Man, sounds like you have a steep learning curve ahead of you. Got to start somewhere. Also, your carbs look hammered, you planning on rebuilding them? That's not really a novice thing to tackle especially if throttle shafts need replacing.

Honestly, unless for some reason you really can't source or use a decent set of SU's, I think you are getting way ahead of yourself. Yeah, dual carbs are pretty freaking sweet, but gauging your knowledge from your intro thread I'd focus less on induction and work on the bigger picture.

By that I think, speaking from years of experience with project cars, that you should shelf this engine, build it up as you gain experience and find a decent RUNNING stock B18 or B20 to stick in it to get it running under its own power. I've gone this path as a noob diving in head first and have been sorely disappointed. Just my two cents for what it's worth. Quite a few of us can help you with setup though when you get to that point.
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Old 10-16-2019, 08:25 PM   #15
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By the way, that Redline Weber manifold sucks and requires lots of work to fit any head/exhaust manifold.
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Old 10-19-2019, 11:32 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R32RennSport View Post
First Webers are Webers and Solex are Solex, they are similar but not the same. Man, sounds like you have a steep learning curve ahead of you. Got to start somewhere. Also, your carbs look hammered, you planning on rebuilding them? That's not really a novice thing to tackle especially if throttle shafts need replacing.

Honestly, unless for some reason you really can't source or use a decent set of SU's, I think you are getting way ahead of yourself. Yeah, dual carbs are pretty freaking sweet, but gauging your knowledge from your intro thread I'd focus less on induction and work on the bigger picture.

By that I think, speaking from years of experience with project cars, that you should shelf this engine, build it up as you gain experience and find a decent RUNNING stock B18 or B20 to stick in it to get it running under its own power. I've gone this path as a noob diving in head first and have been sorely disappointed. Just my two cents for what it's worth. Quite a few of us can help you with setup though when you get to that point.
I don't disagree. I'm going to get it to work with the SUs...I'm just thinking for the future.
And yes, I'm going to rebuild the carbs. In terms of dealing with the heim joints, I think I might just end up drilling out the holes and welding the joints in.
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