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Old 10-04-2019, 12:10 PM   #51
fatcatbestcat
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Originally Posted by R32RennSport View Post
I think the OP is just trolling us all. On the bright side it's keeping everyone busy brainstorming the next bad decision
I mean, not purposely. I'm seeing some good ideas, but the second I pursue them I figure out it's going to be as much work as the last.

I should also point out that my $3,000 budget is
a) in CDN (so probably like $0.45 USD)
and b) for the WHOLE car.

I have most of the parts I need to put this back on the road, but there's always hidden expenses (ie; putting tyres on the 9 rims that came with the car (4 volvo steelies and 5 volvo turbine rims)).

I'm just going to go with the simple stuff that JohnMc suggested - "just use your Solex 40's, use a D cam, find an E or F head and have exhaust seats put in (if it doesn't have it), and put a 2.5" exhaust on it after the downpipe merge."

I'll worry about any big performance upgrades later.
Thanks for all your input, everyone.
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Old 10-04-2019, 12:13 PM   #52
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Sadly " big performance upgrades" and 140s don't go well together on a budget, perhaps we could interest you / recommend a 2-7-9 starting point instead?
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Folks on here don't know a good deal when they see it.
how psi stock cna support?

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Old 10-04-2019, 12:19 PM   #53
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This took me the better part of 2 years and my "budget" by the time the car was running was nearly triple what I allocated and I didn't even touch exterior bodywork/paint. I also literally did everything myself, the only thing I paid someone else to do was machine work. The kind of budget you're working with will get what you have running, driving and stopping like a stock car especially if you are going to pay anyone else to give you a hand. Just trying to level with you and be realistic, don't want to be the downer but I just went through this tunnel and emerged to tell the story.

I'd be lucky to be putting down 140hp to the wheels and this is a B20 bored out to 2130CC with a mild cam and compression and x2 Weber 45 DCOEs.
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Old 10-04-2019, 12:36 PM   #54
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I dont keep track of my budget anymore... so far my turbo B18/20 project has gone through 2 engine blocks, 2 heads, 3 exhaust manifolds, 2 intercoolers, 3 radiators, 3 head gaskets, 4 sets of injectors, 3 clutches, 2 rear axles, 3 driveshafts, 2 soon to be 3 transmissions... the only thing left from the original build are the specs of the engine and the main pcb of my megasquirt box....
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Old 10-04-2019, 02:36 PM   #55
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Old 10-04-2019, 03:33 PM   #56
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Originally Posted by fatcatbestcat View Post
I heard something about a 16v swap? I assume that's the later-model 240 engine, will that just bolt to my transmission?
My car has the M41 O/D trans.
Ill give you $300 for that m41 lump
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Old 10-04-2019, 03:35 PM   #57
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Dude stop posting offensive trash. This is borderline post reporting
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Old 10-04-2019, 04:23 PM   #58
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If it's a personal project car, don't try to stick to a budget because it will never work. The car will never get done. Spend as much as you need when you need to. Get help if necessary on things you can't do yourself. Try to learn as many skills as possible to help in building your car. Don't overthink the project or nothing will ever get done it. Just start working on car. Many people buy cars with grand plans but rarely do they follow through.
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Old 10-04-2019, 04:54 PM   #59
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Start realistically, and get the car driving. And incrementally add things to it. There's a small chance of doing things twice (like spending time and money setting up your 40's only to switch to something later). But there's far less chance of ending up with a forever project with lofty goals that sits on jackstands for a decade before you sell it for pennies.
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Old 10-04-2019, 05:04 PM   #60
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Dude stop posting offensive trash. This is borderline post reporting


I don't see how 210 - 300 stock ponies that actually fit in the engine bay is offensive trash?
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Old 10-04-2019, 05:51 PM   #61
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I don't see how 210 - 300 stock ponies that actually fit in the engine bay is offensive trash?
Isn't the later-model small-block Buick cast-iron?
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Old 10-04-2019, 06:16 PM   #62
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Originally Posted by fatcatbestcat View Post
Isn't the later-model small-block Buick cast-iron?
Yes another # 84 lbs according to the link I posted, not much more than a turbo setup though so not the end of the world for the weight factor and all it affects.

That said 69 was the last year for the shorter rear driveshaft and 1030 pumpkin that doesn't have room in it for an LSD, furthermore, your budget donor vehicle for the larger prop and 1031 pumpkin is going to be an early 164 [pre 70 331:1 auto / 3:71 hen's teeth manual] which is few and far between nowadays.


Like John said one step at a time or you'll lose the whole ball of wax.


Last edited by Redwood Chair; 10-05-2019 at 10:35 AM..
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Old 10-05-2019, 09:37 PM   #63
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http://www.vclassics.com/mppe1.html



http://www.vclassics.com/MPPE/
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Old 10-05-2019, 09:39 PM   #64
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*Only* $5K for 50 ponies.

Edit:

In 2000 dollars which is $7,449.42 in today's dollars not to mention dead RPR links, no more big bore kits, waiting months for parts etc.

Last edited by Redwood Chair; 10-05-2019 at 11:00 PM..
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Old 10-06-2019, 10:03 PM   #65
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Ipd brought back the big bore kits. The head is where it’s at. But with the right amount of time and a few things stolen from the high school chemistry class, it’s not that difficult.
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Old 10-06-2019, 11:20 PM   #66
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The ad cited is many years old. Phil sold his engine a decade or more ago.

Parts for engines like the MPPE are readily available. The heads have been further improved and a few other refinements are now in play. But concerns about the price point are valid. If your priority is all out speed, this isn't for you. For those who want to get more from a B18 or B20 engine and retain the period authenticity that approach includes, this is a good way to go about it. Not for everyone, certainly.
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Old 10-21-2019, 01:06 PM   #67
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With a $3k budget I would spend maybe $300 on a 100hp dry shot with eBay, CL, and overnight parts from Japan. The remaining $2700 in the budget would cover enough replacement b20s to keep on hand to continue sending it down the road.
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Old 10-22-2019, 09:46 AM   #68
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I'll chime in with my $0.02 FWIW. Being somewhat risk-averse, my position on this is "go with what just plain works" and is proven over decades of real-world use. With that in mind, when I decided to rebuild my '72 142E's B20F this last winter, it was a no-brainer: I threw the IPD catalog at it and rest easy knowing I've got a reliable, streetable, proven mild performance engine. Used the standard-issue parts list:

-Bored 0.030 over, Mahle pistons
-IPD/Isky VV71 Street Performance Cam
-IPD lifter & pushrod kit
-IPD Double valve springs
-Mild ported head with hardened valve seats, shaved for higher compression
-Balanced rotating assembly
-Lightened flywheel
-Simons 4-1 header with matching Simons 2" exhaust
-Stock D-jet with stock coil

Performance increase was immediately noticeable. This cam provides mild increase in torque off the line but really wakes up over 3500 and then pulls hard to 6000. Revs faster and exhaust header makes great sounds at WOT. I should probably upgrade to a nicer 4-2-1 header and 2.25" or 2.5" exhaust at some point, but not a huge priority. Reliability is paramount. Last weekend I did a 8-hour 3-stage road rally with a group of classic cars through the hilly backroads of Wisconsin and pushed the car HARD. It loved it and wanted more. Coolant temp never went above middle of the gauge. Importantly, it didn't break. This is why I bought this car: to DRIVE, and I can attest that a build like this (although not 200 screaming, fire-breathing horsepower) will ensure many satisfying miles.
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Old 10-22-2019, 09:57 AM   #69
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A lightened flywheel really does make a large difference in how a B20 feels. You don't even need to go crazy with it. I had a machine shop just take off the lowest of the low hanging fruit and shave off the metal around the outer edge - to where the clutch pressure plate bolts. Didn't mess with the center section or the back side. That took several pounds off where it counts the most. And it really makes the engine feel zippier.

I had several cheap headers fall apart on me, which gets annoying, so I finally bought a KGTrimning 4:2:1 header. Which is much more substantially made. And probably works a lot better.
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