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Old 05-30-2019, 07:02 PM   #126
2turbotoys
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It does, thanks.

So with the test gauge in the correct position, , it runs much better, could actually drive it now. Seems that replacing the injectors and seals helped a bit as well as unclogging the charcoal canister, as the wideband can now read the afr. It is now in the high 15s to 16s while cold, getting closer. Idle is also closer at 770 RPMS or so after it gets a little heat in it.

First vid is cold start, fuel pressure gauge was at 1.7 but quickly rises

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7tz4RMJn_B0

Quick vid of it when the coolant is warm, about 5 minutes of idling. Pressure is at 3.5 approx, lots of popping on decel, a bit richer than when it's cold

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R97zF49TLh4
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Old 05-30-2019, 07:36 PM   #127
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I would expect the air/fuel ratio to go down rather than up on acceleration. Lower numbers are rich, higher lean.

Should be richer cold i.e: lower than 14.7, maybe 10-12.

Appears that between the O2 sensor, ECM and frequency valve you are managing ratio close. Might have to drive it at this point.
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Old 05-30-2019, 08:41 PM   #128
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The weather is supposed to be much better tomorrow, I can't wait to drive it and see what progress has been made!

The afr was behaving like that the last time I drove it, leaned out really bad with any throttle input(17 to 18+), then dropped at idle (high 15's).
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Old 05-30-2019, 09:04 PM   #129
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I've got a couple B21F engines in the barn. I think one is kjet lambda and a kjet basic. So if you need a part. I may have something to help.


I sold a good used intake boot to a friend in fishtown.
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Old 05-30-2019, 09:54 PM   #130
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Thanks! I may need a boot, mine looks great but it seems to have shrunk? IDK if they do that but I can't get the dam thing on right, it's barely sealed. I am hoping its close to being done, I will report back tomorrow after a test drive.
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Old 05-30-2019, 10:30 PM   #131
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There are 3 little rubber mounts that suspend the air flow meter. If they're broken the meter will hang down making it difficult to get the boot on the throttle body.

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Old 05-30-2019, 10:39 PM   #132
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To the rescue again... That must be the problem! I'll PM you about those
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Old 05-31-2019, 12:54 PM   #133
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Before I drive the car today, I decided to get the idle to 900 RPM and check the timing. 1 3/4 turns of the screw later, it idles at the proper speed. The timing light shows the timing is at 5. So going to adjust that now.

EDIT: Leaving my mistakes here so other people don't repeat them. I forgot to unhook the vacuum line to the distributor. Don't know which one to unhook so I removed both and plugged them. Idle went up to 1200 or so so I turned it back down to 900. Now timing is at 12 so I guess it's fine...

Test drive time.

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Old 05-31-2019, 12:57 PM   #134
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Step by step . . . step by step . . . closer . . . and closer.
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Old 05-31-2019, 01:21 PM   #135
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Great progress! Your new videos sound so much better. When I tuned up my '85, I think I went through all the steps maybe three times to get it running well. First time through caught the big issues, found a couple more leaks, then 2nd and 3rd times through got it zeroed in.

I'm not sure what's going on with the popping on decel. Maybe it will work itself out.
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Old 05-31-2019, 03:49 PM   #136
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So that didn't go well. Drives exactly the same, the only thing that changed is the transition from weak performance to the car barely running is more pronounced. The longer I drive, the less power it makes. After 15 minutes or so it was noticeably much worse so I headed for home. It got so bad I stopped for an hour to let it cool off but that didn't help, it didn't really cool down that much (the gauge did but not the engine compartment). It reached the point where I wasn't sure I was going to make it home.

AFR on cold accelleration was in the high 16s to 17's, then went over 18 as it warmed up.

Short vid, this is as fast as it would go. On a slight incline, not a hill, variation in rpm is due to the incline, not throttle input. In 2nd gear, 20-25 mph was max speed. Sounds terrible also.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I7rvxUKqhOU

I think decel pops have a lot to do with the exhaust system, it's 2 old resonators, no cat, basically has no mufflers
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Old 05-31-2019, 06:47 PM   #137
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You mentioned 5 degrees of timing. Don't know nuttin about no 4 cylinders but 6 and 8's use a little more than that.
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Old 05-31-2019, 07:18 PM   #138
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You must have seen it before I edited it, when done the correct way (vacuum hoses removed and plugged) timing is 12 deg, which I believe is correct
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Old 05-31-2019, 07:49 PM   #139
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Lots better.

You are obviously running far too lean.

Dwell adjustment?
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Old 05-31-2019, 07:58 PM   #140
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I guess that's next. I'm debating struggling through it myself, or dropping it off at a local shop (20 minutes away) I found who has a great rep for working on K Jet cars. Kind of leaning towards turning it over to an expert because I can drive it there now, if I start messing with it, who knows what will happen.
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Old 05-31-2019, 08:40 PM   #141
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My friend who owns a shop helping me with the LS swap isn't intimidated by the adjustments so looks like I will take it there and do it myself with him...I just think it will be a s***show, but you guys have given me a lot of direction on doing it so I'm going to try it. I've already done a few things on this diag that I've never done before, so whats one more? Thanks guys!

I can't find it in the greenbooks yet but will keep looking
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Old 05-31-2019, 09:39 PM   #142
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Checking and adjusting idle mixture with the "dwell" test connector and a wideband O2 sensor is pretty easy. The hardest part may be finding the connector in the engine bay, and removing the anti-tamper plug if not removed already.

I use Bentley for my '85 but it looks like "Volvo 240 O2 Sensor Fault Tracing TP11585-2.pdf" from https://ozvolvo.org/archive/archive.php covers your '78.

Instead of an exhaust gas analyzer, I used a megasquirt chart that shows general AFRs versus CO emissions. It may not be exactly right, but should be pretty close. Go here:
http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/tune.htm#emissions
go to the end of the article and page back ~5 times to find the "Gasoline AFR versus Typical Emissions" chart. The 14.3 AFR value I mentioned earlier (with narrowband O2 disconnected), give ~1.0% CO on the chart.
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Old 05-31-2019, 09:42 PM   #143
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Wow, thanks! That helps a lot.
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Old 06-15-2019, 11:11 PM   #144
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So my buddys shop has been booked solid, so I'll just go for it on my own. Whatever blocks the dwell adjustment screw has been removed, so obviously someone has been messing with it, so I have no baseline but whatever, I have Greenbooks, dwell meter, etc lol. Hopefully tomorrow I can fix it.
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Old 06-16-2019, 03:02 PM   #145
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So here is what happened today so far.

Found the dwell hookup wire in front of the brake booster, hooked up the meter.
I unplugged the O2 sensor, started the car, and adjusted the screw to 14.3 on the wideband. Leaving the allen key in place, hooked up the O2 sensor, afr is now 13.8. Still goes full lean when revved over half throttle. Dwell is 90 the whole time.

Any downward pressure on the allen key makes the car want to stall for some reason, and I can not for the life of me get anything to thread in there including nylon screws (both of which are now lost in there somewhere...)

Next I went to the Greenbook to follow that process. Since the dwell is 90, go to B1. Step B2 says to unhook the connector at airflow sensor, which will start fuel pump and energize o2 system. My air flow meter has no electronic connector of any sort. So that stalled out right there.
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Old 06-16-2019, 03:13 PM   #146
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Unplugging the connector at the air flow meter will cause the fuel pump to run continuously on early cars. Use the bypass relay on later cars like yours.



Leaving the allen wrench in place will cause the AFM plate to bind when the engine is revved. It must be removed after adjusting the mixture.

It's normal for downward pressure on the adjusting screw to cause the engine to try and stall since you're leaning it out when pushing down. If you're having a hard time getting the allen wrench into the screw, try cleaning the adjusting screw by using a pick to loosen the dirt and then use a can of carb spray with a straw to blast the dirt out of the allen socket.
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Old 06-16-2019, 03:26 PM   #147
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Ok thanks. I got the allen in fine, I just can't plug the hole back up. I probably shouldn't yet anyway I guess.

I'll try the Greenbook procedure using the bypass relay next, I figured it needed something to activate the o2 system as well.
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Old 06-20-2019, 10:25 PM   #148
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I did the Greenbook procedure,
A5-Engine running, frequency valve duty cycle on the dwell meter was 90 so go to B2
B2-connect fuel bypass relay--Condition 4 dwell meter reading 90, go to E1
E1-No voltage at frequency valve, go to F1
F1 lead to F5, no voltage at the aux air valve. "use diagnosis instructions for CI system (in separate manual)"

I can't figure out which manual they are referring to, the only thing I found was in this manual which just said to check the ground for the aux air valve, which seems fine. https://ozvolvo.org/archive/archive....IxX2IyMy5wZGY=
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Old 06-21-2019, 12:15 AM   #149
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For a picture of the LambdaSond wiring diagram, see post #23 http://forums.turbobricks.com/showpo...4&postcount=27

or download the color version from Oz "TP12045-1_wiring_diagrams_1977_1978.pdf" and look at pg. 14 of 112.

The diag procedure you've been following is trying to figure out why the frequency valve isn't buzzing and why dwell is stuck at 90.

Since you can get it to run/idle somewhat, try measuring voltage to ground, while running, of the 2 pins on the frequency valve ("C" in the diagram). The green wire should be +12v, and the brown should be 6ish volts when frequency valve is running at 45deg dwell. I think your earlier diags show that the green wire is not getting 12v. If not, check voltages on relay H and relay G. Relay G is the fuel pump relay.

If your fuel pumps are running, relay G is supplying power to the pumps, so the frequency valve issue must be between relay G and freq valve C, which would be some wires and the system relay H.

OK, or am I rambling too much?

[BTW: the greenbook diagram is missing a wire -- pin 85 of relay H goes to ground, probably a black wire but not shown.]
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Old 06-21-2019, 09:27 PM   #150
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Definitely not rambling too much. I appreciate as much detail as possible, I have tested the voltage at everywhere haha but not sure if the engine was running, can't remember at this point. Thank you for the help, I'll report back as soon as I can.
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