wiggly harmonic balancer

PromiseRing said:

Yeah I know. I bought the crank tool used a long time ago from a local guy. Use it every time I do the t belt.

I was wondering if people properly torqued the crank bolt and then added the additional degrees like you're supposed to. I recall doing that on my 1st or 2nd timing belt and then having the bolt come loose. My guess was an inaccurate torque wrench.

Now I just MAKE SURE the pulley is fully seated so I don't shear the keyway off (that's what happened when my pulley came loose and fell off), then I just tighten the living **** out of the crank bolt. Probably not 'ideal' but works every time.

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I do, every time and always

Use the "aircraft" torque method - you know how it goes: just as soon as you think it's safe to go back in the water - just done it that way since I first started with a Volvo - peace of mind - you CAN break those cranks - seen it done, at the dealership (long ago and far away)

I keep a stiff paper 60 degree protractor I made from a manila folder ages ago taped to the wall in the garage - just tape it to the crank stub when the time comes for it

You got the holding tool - you got the pull handle and pipe - just cut yourself out a protractor - it adds no hassle to the job

OldGrandpaTune said:

I took it back apart and inspected everything. There is no nub.

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Here's what the parts should look like.
Circled nub fits into circled slot.

Got it torqued to 200 with a long socket extender.

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Over tightening can snap the bolt, snap the crank nose, strip the threads, or distort the bolt past its "elastic" stage and weaken it enough that it doesn't hold pressure any more.

Missing nubs can (possibly) let the balancer slowly rotate from the crank's firing pulses, bringing the bolt with it until it's loose enough to let go, especially if the bolt torque has been "compromised". The nub does an important job!

Jimmy E. James said:

I keep a stiff paper 60 degree protractor I made from a manila folder ages ago taped to the wall in the garage - just tape it to the crank stub when the time comes for it

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The bolt also has 6 sides (and 6 points). 360/6 = 60 degrees per point. I usually just make a visible paint-pen mark on the balancer where a pre-torqued (45 ft-lbs) bolt point is, and 2 corresponding marks on the socket. Line up the first mark, tighten to the second mark. Done.