|08-29-2012, 01:10 AM||#1|
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Sydney, AUS/Appleton, WI
16V head removal
1/4" 10mm socket with ratchet
10/12/13mm ratceting wrenches
10/12/13/14/15/17mm long handle wrenches
Spade and #2 philips screwdrivers
10/12/13/14/15/17/18/19mm 6 point 1/2" sockets
18-24" breaker bar
1/2" fine tooth ratchet
50 red rags
sharpie (label all the buckets)
20ft rope in 2 10ft lengths
5 1 quart ziplock bags
2 1 gallon ziplock bags
It should not take you more then 45min unless your doing something stupid and wrong...
#0 as you go any bolt/nut you remove you put into a bag and dont toss onto the ground
#1 remove exhaust head shield
#2 remove 8 nuts holding exhaust manifold to head
#3 if still there remove bracket from exhaust to bellhousing
#4 pull exhaust from head and let it drop
#5 remove 8 nuts holding intake manifold in place to head + the 1/2 bolts that hold the bracket for the reinforcement
#6 pull intake away and use section of rope between head and the drivers side mirror to hold it out of the way
#7 remove 10mm cap screws from valve cover
#8 remove distro cover and remove screws holding it in place, dont worry about removing it
#8.1 remove cam belt cover
#8.2 remove bolts from cam gears, remove gears, remove tensioner
#9 remove nuts holding cam covers/cams in place and remove cams
#10 clean and label each bucket as you remove it and store in bags
#10 seperate upper head section from lower
#11 use big breaker bar with 15mm socket and extension to remove 7 long and 3 short head bolts
#12 lift head and slight forward for better access to heater hose
#13 cut radiator and heater hoses
#14 remove head, set onto ground and then bolt upper section and cams and valve covers back in
#15 pay way too much for something you will never use
I'll add some pics the next time I pull a head
Tentacle Sedan-97 S90; stuff including paddles and holset etc... Powered by Beetroot
Current 240 Ownership
1993, 1992, 1990, 1985, 1981
|08-29-2012, 04:43 AM||#2|
Join Date: Apr 2006
In Vallokra it took me 25 Minutes in the awesomest sun we had this summer.. i thought im gonna die.. but we did it.. its a new record i think.. with luck no exhaust studs snapped.. they were so rusty i could bang an 12 instead ob 13.. :D
BTW.. 600Kr for the complete head ;)
|08-29-2012, 08:57 PM||#3|
Join Date: Oct 2005
Edit: BTW,Good write up
89 780 Turbo (currently being built)
|08-29-2012, 10:02 PM||#4|
body work hell
Join Date: Jun 2003
if timing belt is still intact I usually leave that on their and remove the cam gears with a 14mm wrench and smack that with a hammer to get some impact to break the cam gears loose.
|08-29-2012, 11:31 PM||#5|
I sell Volvo parts!
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Seattle, WA
Also, I squirt PBlaster on the exhaust (to let it soak before removal) and remove the upper valve cover first. Then, I remove the spark plug wires and make sure the head halves sealed properly and didn't fill the spark plug holes with oil.
Here's my feedback thread:
I ship small packages/purchases on Fridays, and larger ticket items via FedEx in the middle of the week.
|08-30-2012, 11:49 AM||#6|
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Athens, OH
If the cam carrier is stuck, a gear puller can help: hook one jaw under the lip at the edge of the carrier, and put the threaded portion on one of the studs for the cam bearing caps. Pry toward the center of the head and it should break free pretty easy.
Mine wasn't coming free, and bonking with a mallet wasn't helping.
1987 245 -- 330K -- Dog Waggin'
1990 245 -- 150K -- Looks nice when it's wet
1991 745 -- 320K -- Regina powered B234F!
|08-31-2012, 02:35 PM||#7|
Royale with cheese
Join Date: Feb 2012
Hehe I found mine!
Circa Brett's '09 Tag Exempt Thread
Your = possessive. Your grammar skills make us cry.
You're = contraction (you are).
There = noun (place).
They're = contraction (they are).