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Old 02-06-2019, 03:24 PM   #26
Chilm
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Thanks for the info Swedbrick,

a diy kit sounds interesting, count me in if you have one
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Volvo 945 - Blue Pearl - LPT Polar 2.3 Limited Edition
B230-FK Turbo - 90+ ported - 15G Ported - Airintake
Erland Cox Regrind - Blabla Chips - 3 inch exhaust
MBC on 0.95 - Wasted Spark - Sponsored by my wife

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Old 03-20-2019, 12:49 PM   #27
Swedbrick
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Post A bunch of little fixes

Since the car is finally out of winter storage again, I got to work on a bunch of little fixes on the car I had noticed after getting it running on LH for the first month.

The first fix was the car nearly dying at the stop light if you weren't gentle on the brakes, I suspected the pump having fallen of the hanger, however the issue was in the return tube on the pump hanger. It was aimed in stock position to just outside of the stock bucket in the tank, and the new pump would suck it dry by pumping it all out. This was fixed with a little readjustment of the rotation of the return tube.


The next fix was getting a better fuel pressure regulator installed since I got a lambda code and noticed the car running rich with the bigger walboro pump. I got myself a chinese version that would work, and instantly tore it apart to replace all the orings with quality items (since one of the original ones on the one my brother bought was installed incorrecly), cleared the chips I was warned for and took all of the fittings out, since they were sealed with epoxy. I retapped the threads to get the coating off, added permatex and put the thing back together


Tore apart for cleaning and improvement


The wrongly installed o-ring


With the fuel pressure regulator now fixed, I got to figuring out a way to adapt it to the stock fuel rail for now. I welded a piece of steel to the chopped off end on the original FPR, and drilled and tapped it to fit the npt thread on the reg as a mock-up, I also made a nice bracket and painted it black.


It fit in place like this:


After testing, seeing the needle bounce in all sorts of weird manners and wondering for a while what I managed to mess up, I realized I swapped the in and output of the regulator So off it came again, and a new bracket was made


I then measured the distance, triple checking everything, and got an adapter piece made ready to be tapped to adapt the rail to the regulator for good.


This solved my fuel pressure issue, and I only got the lambda code for idle, for which I expect the leaky exhaust and the ignition system to be to blame. I also made the mistake of installing iridium plugs before upgrading the stock system, which promptly fried the (I assume) already worn rotor, being part of the bad idle problem.


To solve this I swapped back to copper plugs, put on a different rotor and cap I had laying around, and to resolve another expected issue, performed a vacuum leak check with brake clean listening for an change in rpm as I sprayed around all inlet air seals of relevance. Suprisingly no leaks were found The car still idled rough, but better.

I took a look at the plugs once more, and they showed rich


To get this part solved I am planning on getting to a sealed exhaust soon, as well as considering some other interesting options involving COP ignition since I have access to some extra b6304 coilpacks, if I can find space with respect to the turbo manifolds which will be getting a redo soon.


As a conclusion to my day of working through a list of small fixes, I made up a 8mm shim for my center bearing, since the sound of my driveshaft bottoming out, was starting to hurt Luckily this did the trick and the car is much less clunky now


Any tips on other checks I could do for my rough idle would be much appreciated The MAF, IAC and throttle body where cleaned before installation, and I will try to check those soon, but I suspect the issue is elsewhere. Unplugging the MAF results in an even rougher idle, so I'm pretty sure it is not my suspect.
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Last edited by Swedbrick; 06-03-2019 at 01:58 PM.. Reason: fixing the images
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Old 03-20-2019, 12:52 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chilm View Post
Thanks for the info Swedbrick,

a diy kit sounds interesting, count me in if you have one
Hi Chilm,

I'm currently still setting up a little company to get something like this on offer, hopefully I'll get it made before summer, but it might take a while to get it to work to my liking I'll will most definitely contact you when I have them at the ready.
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Old 03-20-2019, 05:06 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by Swedbrick View Post
Hi Chilm,

I'm currently still setting up a little company to get something like this on offer, hopefully I'll get it made before summer, but it might take a while to get it to work to my liking I'll will most definitely contact you when I have them at the ready.
Great... I'll wait
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Old 06-03-2019, 01:36 PM   #30
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Default Rust repairs, and another track session

Hi all, it's about time for another little update on the project.

As part of getting all of the door seals and windows seals fixed on the car, I got a set of side window seals since the old ones were pretty far gone.


The rust I suspected to find was actually the lesser problem, since due to a badly done respray of the car by a previous owner, the paint had separated from the window edge, which had been covered up with silicone sealant instead of an actual repair. This left the rust to propagate, and resulted in the rear window being so loose, that I could push it out by hand


After removing the window and committing to the long road to fixing the rust, I also decided to fix all of the rust spots on the top of the car, including a spot on the a-pillar and a little hole under the left side window strip.


First off the bad paint job and rust got sanded down and rust converter was applied. After which I proceeded by filling all of the bad spots and factory seams.




A few layers of primer after that with many hours of sanding, and the top coats could be applied.


I used paint matched 173-2 with 2 clear topcoats. For now the paint will be left to harden since it is acrylic paint, and will be blended in soon with a possible paint restoration for the whole car.




The trim got put back on, and the preparations for another track day at Zandvoort circuit began (all of this had to happen in about a month mind you:p). First up, a new steering wheel, for which I had to add a 3D printed ABS section to the hub adapter I bought, since it did not include a proper dust seal as the original wheel had







Made it to the trackday okay, even got to see the sunset without laying under the car.


Unfortunately due to a car spinning in front of me on track, I destroyed the edge of my right front tyre on the gravel since I still hit the chicane at some speed. I did have a good laugh with the owner of the corvette however, who was confused by the old Volvo keeping up with him on track


Video of Corvette spinning:p


I also managed to get my hands on some new goodies for the rear axle, which I'll be putting in this weekend


More updates on the track brick to follow soon!


P.S. finally figured out image sizing
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Old 06-20-2019, 11:25 AM   #31
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Default Aussie locker install, engine mounts and sorting out the little stuff

Pretty much a weekend after the track day the car was back up on the usual jack stands over the weekend, ready for the rear end locker.


I zip tied the sway bar to my exhaust and got the cover bolts out


I then completely butchered the splash guard to get the spider gear retaining pin out


Ended up having to dremel it in half, since there was no way it was going to fit through the space available


Then realized I was an idiot for believing that the pin was going to go past the 3.94 ring gear


Proceded to dissasemble all of the things, and make a mess of the rear of my car. I also marked the diff's position and caps with paint, to make sure I would be able to reassemble it all in the right place.


First job on the bench was to remove the splash guard for good, since such ugly buchery cannot be allowed


I took the ring gear off and the spider gears out


Cleaned all of the bits in the parts cleaner and prepped the Aussie locker


Gave the teeth of the locker a good greasing


Got it all in and checked clearance (converted to metric, specs were provided in inches)


I did have to bend the provided spring retaining pins to get it all in before pulling them out to complete the install


Luckily the kit provided the pin I cut in two, so I got that back in correctly


I got the ring gear back on in the same location, torqued the bolts to 100 Nm as specified for flanged bolts by the green book for the 1030


Gave it a greasing and put it back in, reverse order of it all, also re greased the wheel bearings and gave it all a clean and fresh fluids. also replaced the stripped fill plug with the oil pan plug of an 850, same thread and a lot cheaper, long live internet cross referencing:p


Next the sound that gave me a mini heart attack on the way to the track since it went away with the clutch pressed in, sounding like a broken release bearing. Luckily it only was a loose fuel pressure gauge bezel, but it did scratch the glass This time re-installed it with thread locker and spring washers for double the safety.





I then moved on to the motor mounts, which were part of the vibration issue that probably got them loose. Replaced them with some I got from my dad, not sure for which Volvo they were, but with a few extra holes and a bit of cursing when it did not align first try, I got the new ones in, much better, the car feels way smoother now





The last thing I fixed was my coolant leak which I noticed after the trackday when engine bay temps got hot. Whilst pushing my brothers car into storage for winter I found out my fan was not yet ecu operated, boiling the coolant, I have been making due with a jumper for now. The issue was pretty clear when I got the water pump off


The easy job went hard mode when I broke off one of the bolts in my block


The welder got involved, but did not help


I ended up drilling in tapping for an acceptable result, the old bolt was really rusted in there somehow




I got the pump back on with new seals and a cleanup in the parts washer, and also removed my power steering setup. I'll be moving all of that a bit to make room for the future ITB manifold upgrade.

More updates soon on rechipping the ecu for e-fan compatibility, getting buchka wasted spark and cruise control installed and cleaning up the engine bay some more
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