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Got big honking Holset in the mail today...

OK, that thing is just plain colossal.

Potential solutions on how to get it to spool:

1) 100 shot of nitrous at anything under 5k RPM's (Dude, you could so put a kewl NAWZZ sticker on yer kar!)

2) 5k RPM stall torque converter (sure your drivability might be affected, but you could stage at every stop light, just think of what it would do for your reaction times!)

3) TB style custom fabricated afterburner - dump raw fuel into the exhaust upstream of the turbo and voila....Swedish afterburner! I'm guessing if you ran a real big exhaust STRAIGHT out the back of your car, the thrust could significantly improve your ET!

Anyone care to bench race how many tenths a Holset derived JATO system is worth? :lol:
 
he he, go big or go home!! what psi are you looking at?? i would put a smaller hotside on. i like the idea of a T3T4. it would spool a lot faster and better.
 
Well, to be repetitive, the theory on this big honkin turbo is that it will spool like a small turbo when the A/R is cranked way down. The range on it goes from (rough conversions from cm2) .2 A/R to 1.7, 1.8 A/R. From too small (used as an engine brake on the Cummins) to too big. Choke it down (but not down to .2!) for quick spool, then open it up (but probably not to 1.7) for flow.

BUT...

I plonked the motor in the car this evening (it was ready) and then tried to see how this huge hot side would fit in the 240 engine bay. And, well, it just doesn't.

Jammed in between the strut tower and the engine, no room for a manifold:
IMG_2001.JPG

IMG_2003.JPG


Just isn't going to work. :-(

Another issue that suprised me somewhat - the 8V manifold on the 16V motor isn't quite as good a fit as I was imagining it would be. I think the angle of the head surface is different, as well as being a couple of inches further out from the motor. While the clearance between the throttle body and the master cylinder isn't as impossible as with a 16V manifold, it's still really snug.
IMG_2005.JPG

IMG_2006.JPG


I think with a (careful, obv.) bending of that brake line and one of those ATP turbo 'tight bend' pieces I saw in a thread here the other day, should be OK.
 
Just hook up a wastegate actuator to it so that no boost equals closed and more boost equals open or opening. I know there was an artical where some one did exactly that. They still added a wastegate externally to keep it from overspooling. It should be able to spool at its lowest opening by 3500 or better. I was thinking of going the same route as for the price it's worth the experiment.

my .02

Renny

Edit after reading above post: what I get for taking an hour between first reading the thread and responding - relocate turbo to the in front of the strut tower. A modded SS autochrome or similar header would be a cheap (possibly temporary option) or make a pipe to go from the stock 16v exhaust manifold to the relocated turbo - not easy but doable or lastly cut the hood and have it sticking out the top. For me that has a certain cool factor to it but some may not dig the idea...

further .02
 
A question for for the people going on about how ****ing huge this turbo supposedly is:

What are you basing that on? Exterior dimensions? Or the fact that someone before you claimed it was big? The coldside is only marginally larger than on an HX35, and the hotside is just bulky. There's really nothing about this turbo that makes it warrant all this "omg so massive olol" ****.
 
It's a stealth DD, no turbo's sticking out of the hood.

Another thing to consider is that the thing weighs a good 45 lbs or so, going to be hard as hell to make a manifold last that holds that at any distance from the head. I can just picture even a nicely made front/top mount manifold cracking and falling apart after holding 50 lbs while the motor shakes around.
 
A question for for the people going on about how ****ing huge this turbo supposedly is:

What are you basing that on? Exterior dimensions? Or the fact that someone before you claimed it was big? The coldside is only marginally larger than on an HX35, and the hotside is just bulky. There's really nothing about this turbo that makes it warrant all this "omg so massive olol" ****.

It's physically very, very large. And very heavy. I think I could get it to work great from a flow and spool standpoint, but it just plain doesn't fit in the engine bay where it needs to.
 
It's a stealth DD, no turbo's sticking out of the hood.

Another thing to consider is that the thing weighs a good 45 lbs or so, going to be hard as hell to make a manifold last that holds that at any distance from the head. I can just picture even a nicely made front/top mount manifold cracking and falling apart after holding 50 lbs while the motor shakes around.

I think a manifold could be braced well enough to not have a massive load to carry on on the tubing ends. I braced mine and I believe the brace will actually take most of the weight.

Now if I had only spent the same amount of time on the oil lines..

Or sell it to me... :-)

Renny
 
That things gunna be like a grenade.

Pull the pin.. count to 3... BOOOOM!!!!!!!!
(floor it)......(turbo lag)... (BOOOOST)
 
A question for for the people going on about how ****ing huge this turbo supposedly is:

What are you basing that on? Exterior dimensions? Or the fact that someone before you claimed it was big? The coldside is only marginally larger than on an HX35, and the hotside is just bulky. There's really nothing about this turbo that makes it warrant all this "omg so massive olol" ****.

http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/vnt-vgt-and-wg-turbo-information-thread-t-235.html

92010d1234893590-holset-turbos-results-only-complete-installed-systems-holsetvgtmap.jpg



It also weighs 47 lbs.
 
how are you going to control vgt? or did I miss that whole thing?
vgt turbo's a dirt cheap because as far as I know no one knows how to control them.
 
You guys must be aiming to produce a heck of a lot more power than I am...and I thought my rig was competitively built. I think a nice sized Garrett T3/T4 would do much better, and be much more driveable than this turbo....unless you're gonna produce 800+ hp...
 
You guys must be aiming to produce a heck of a lot more power than I am...and I thought my rig was competitively built. I think a nice sized Garrett T3/T4 would do much better, and be much more driveable than this turbo....unless you're gonna produce 800+ hp...

no way that turbo is an 800hp turbo dude. maybe 400...

[if it's like my he351?)
 
how are you going to control vgt? or did I miss that whole thing?
vgt turbo's a dirt cheap because as far as I know no one knows how to control them.

Yeah, I've been trolling around in other forums, waiting to see if there was a break through. Haven't heard of one yet.

What I was planning on doing was just making it a two-speed turbo. A granny gear low A/R setting to get it spooled up at a lower RPM, then a low PSI WG actuator to pretty much flip it straight over to a higher A/R for flow. Set the flip to be 5 - 8 psi or thereabouts. Adjust the low and high A/R settings as seems fit.

I was also pondering looking for some sort of PWM linear actuator to replace the WG actuator at some point, and controlling that with MS.

But the thing just doesn't fit in a 240. So I'm ditching the idea. Might get a 'normal' Holset with a smaller hotside. Maybe a HE351CW. Maybe a Chinese knockoff GT3076R ball bearing turbo. Maybe a T3/T4. Dunno...

Only paid $118 for this shipped. I'll probably just stick it back up on eBay again.
 
You mean the flange? It's something in between a T3 and a T4, seems to be (so far) specific to the HE351VE.

I could measure the outside dimensions of it.
 
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