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The torque converter fell off?

Xman

New member
Joined
Dec 27, 2005
Location
Fort Worth TX
I was getting ready to change out automatic transmissions this afternoon on my '93 240. While cleaning the replacement, I tipped it just a little when moving it around and the torque converter fell right off the shaft. Wow, it surprised me! I slipped the converter right back on the shaft, only loosing a few table spoons of oil. The face of the converter is flush with the gell housing. I have no experience with changing out automatics (only manuals). Is it ok to install the transmission or does something else need to be done to ensure it is in working order?
 
You need to rotate the converter clockwise until it clicks and seats further into the bellhousing.
 
take it back off and inspect the SEAL...make sure the little "spring thing" isn't
dangling or exposed...
then (as described by BOTH posters above)
reset and turn / gently wiggle until the torque convertor is FULLY seated
if it is FLUSH w/the edge of the bell housing it will NOT "seat" and allow
you to bolt up to the flex plate
 
Thanks, for the tips. Looks like I better find a manual to make sure its back on correctly and make sure the "spring thing" isn't dangling.
 
Thanks, for the tips. Looks like I better find a manual to make sure its back on correctly and make sure the "spring thing" isn't dangling.

"spring thing"....the SEAL SPRING looks like a little "coil bracelet"...
technical term : SEAL LIP RETAINER TENSION SPRING...:lol:
 
here, goes. Let's see how long it takes me to get it back on correctly. Thanks for all the tips. They certainly help me understand what I need to accomplish for a task I have never done before.
 
Sarcasm? If so, good luck. You are on your own from here from here on. Everyone told you what you need to know/do. What did you expect, someone to make a video on how to install the converter and post it for you?
 
^^ Maybe, that's why I asked, not assumed it is sarcasm. My friend is stopping by in a few. I'll have him shoot an I-phone video of installing the converter. This comes up so often, it might come in handy.

Video shot. I'll down load it tonight and post a link to it.
 
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i just LOL'd at the thread title.

you will be fine, just pop the torque converter back in. turn it clockwise while you lightly thump on it by hand and it will pop back into place. it's very important the t/c is seated all the way in before bolting up the transmission.

check the input shaft seal like Mick said, you don't want a leak from there after putting it together.
 
Well the torque converter went back on like suggested. Only took a couple of minutes at most. Got the old tranny out then in my haste, forgot to mark the drive plate when I took it off the replace the main seal. Can't afford to be making mistakes while I'm putting things back together so packed it up for the day.
 
Well the torque converter went back on like suggested. Only took a couple of minutes at most. Got the old tranny out then in my haste, forgot to mark the drive plate when I took it off the replace the main seal. Can't afford to be making mistakes while I'm putting things back together so packed it up for the day.


yer not the first nor the last....
good SMART MOVE to pack it in when you realize you're getting fatigued....;-)
 
Well, I wasn't the first nor most likely the last to take the drive plate off without marking it. The interesting part is I only found one location that addresses the proper way to reinstall the driveplate properly aligned to the crank. Haynes manuals don't even address the driveplate. My Bentley Manual does but the directions are incorrect and your engine will not run if you follow them. For those that might need it in the future, the brickboard had it right.

http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EngineMechanical.htm#FlywheelPositiononReinstallation
 
With the engine at TDC #1 cyl the drive plate should be as shown below:

ijBKCz2X7j_CRLvZbUGFfNMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0


X7b3ZHKSRVCHejk-VFnEh9MTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0
 
Well, I got the replacement transmission in yesterday and all is working fine. Thanks for your suggestoins. The biggest issue turned out to be the filler tube. It has to come off to get the transmission back into the car. I found on-line info that showed how tuff the nuts are to get off. In my case, the nut would loosen and make a turn then start to bind on both transmissions. The one I was installing, it took a 5-pound sleghammer to get it off, striking it all the way until it was off. The nut was ruined and would not reinstall so I took the filler tube off the removed/bad tranny. On this one, the hammer started it and then it could be worked by hand but with a lot of force. My mistake was not using a penetrating oil like PB Blaster. Upon inspection, both nuts had cracked threads both perpendicular to the threads at the start and parallel in the valley two turns in. It appears that when installed during manufacturing, the nut is over-torqued and deforms. The oil is your only hope of getting the nut off without ruining it. The other option is to take the oil pan off with the filler tube still attached.
 
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