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Front Brade Pad Juttering, 93 245

S

sjulier

Member
Joined
Nov 20, 2013
Location
Hamden CT
In the front I had I nstalled new WBR calipers (premium), Brembo rotors, Textar pads and bleed the system. Severe juttering within 300 miles. Brembo rotors had warped. Car lightly loaded.

Rotors were changed to Volvo OE. Same calipers and pads. Juttering but not as severe. Rotors not warped but changed out. Calipers are not sticking. Car lightly loaded.

New Ate rotors and Pagid pads (same company as Textar). Mild juttering. Rotors have a 1.25? bluest streak in the center. Car is fully loaded with rocket box and mountain bikes on a 6,000+ mile trip out west.

Thanks in advance for any constructive thoughts.

Sam
 
Low hanging fruit:

Did you confirm the rotors were truly warped? Big pad deposits can present the same way. Also, pads bedded?

Though, blued rotors, especially if uneven, sounds weird. Pads move freely? Nothing catching?
 
rwb said:
Low hanging fruit:

Did you confirm the rotors were truly warped? Big pad deposits can present the same way. Also, pads bedded?

Though, blued rotors, especially if uneven, sounds weird. Pads move freely? Nothing catching?
Click to expand...

Pads bedded correctly (6-8 50-20mph brake applications without full stops), first set of rotors warped. Second were not warped. Pads move freely, calipers are not stuck.

I’m wondering if these softer pads have the potential to leave big deposits and require more bedding in. Previous pads were ceramic which never presented an issue. Only other thought is that calipers were not machined correctly.

Sam
 
sjulier said:
I’m wondering if these softer pads have the potential to leave big deposits and require more bedding in.
Click to expand...

Possible, but if you're legitimately warping and blueing rotors, something is weird. Unless you're driving hard enough to expect really hot brakes all the time, something is touching more than it should.

Even though the calipers aren't sticking, have you made sure they retract correctly when pressure is released? If the seal is no good, the pistons may seem to move easily but might not get sucked back in properly. Possible you got a new caliper that's NFG.
 
Are the hubs clean so the rotors can sit flat? Do you have a way to put a dial indicator on the rotor face and spin the rotor by hand?
 
Loose wheel bearings, bad tie rod ends, and bad front suspension bushings are also related to brake juddering when they are bad. Recently we had a thread where the abs was suspect in the brake issues. Try removing the fuse for the abs to make sure it's not the problem.
 
dl242gt said:
Loose wheel bearings, bad tie rod ends, and bad front suspension bushings are also related to brake juddering when they are bad. Recently we had a thread where the abs was suspect in the brake issues. Try removing the fuse for the abs to make sure it's not the problem.
Click to expand...

Just tested with ABS fuse removed. No change. Tie rods, sway bar links bushings are new.
 
freevolvos said:
Brake hoses collapsed and bit NOT allowing the piston to return
Click to expand...

The hoses can internally swell causing this kind of issue. You reminded me recently when I did my front pads. The right front had one stuck piston. This was causing a weird pulsing in my braking. I got the piston unstuck and moved it a few times and it's been behaving.
 
One of the shops that I do contract work for just restored an MGB. New brake hoses, new rotors, new pads and new repop calipers. Brake squeal after the third stop. Changed the rotors three time with two resurfaces, three different sets of pads, still brake squeal. Put stock calipers on, end of the brake squeal. The parts are only as good as to how they are made
 
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