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Andrew's 122 turbo project

moise said:
what oil filter support is it? i see very nice
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I'm not really sure but I can probably find one like it and let you know.

vintagewrench said:
Andrew- Congratulations. When the times right take us for a ride in it.
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Thank you. Now there is a pile of other issues to sort out.

The timing belt that was on it stripped some teeth and the engine came to a screeching halt. Does an RSI stage 2 cam make this an interference engine? I mean, it's not like I'm not going to just throw another belt on and go, but I'm just curious.
 
:run:

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Pull the head and see ftw... pita yeah but. You got an awful lot into this just to 'try it and see'. Better to be sure.

That's what I'd do anyhow. :twocents:
 
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Cam seized in the head at #3 cam cap. Apparently after relocating the oil filter and adding a cooler, it took a lot more oil than I suspected. I'll see if the head can be salvaged but I'll have to send the cam off and see if it can be welded and reground. The lobes looked okay but I won't know til I can measure it. I might try to smooth out the cam bearing and use a stock cam for a while to see if it's okay. I have a big valve head that I wanted to put on at some point but I'd like to delay that a while if possible.

Embarrassing but you live and learn I guess. At most I would need to replace the head and cam so no biggie.
 
Melling M181. Shortened to be used with a B20 pan. I don't suspect the pump is to blame. I probably didn't put enough oil in or prime the whole engine sufficiently. When I pulled the valve cover it was pretty obvious that no oil reached the head.
 
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cwdodson88 said:
Can/did you prime it by spinning up the aux shaft?
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I didn't because it's too close to the radiator to get a drill/impact in there and I had it all assembled by that point. In retrospect, I should've at least pulled the coil wires and turned the engine over for a while.

doucheNozzle said:
That's what I always do. Plus I lube up the cam before putting it in.

However, **** happens to the best of us. At least you're not like most and scraping the project.
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Yeah it was stupid. But I figure the most I'll have in it is a head and a cam. I'm going to email a few pictures to some places and see if the cam can be repaired and weigh that cost against just buying a new cam. In the meantime I'm going to put in a B cam, polish the bearing, and see what happens.
 
I'm so sorry Andrew. I was so excited to see it start. I hope the cost is low. Will continue to follow :)

Thanks,
 
AndrewNance said:
I didn't because it's too close to the radiator to get a drill/impact in there and I had it all assembled by that point. In retrospect, I should've at least pulled the coil wires and turned the engine over for a while.
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Yep, just like a b18/b20 where you cant spin the cam, pull either the injector plugs, fuel pump fuse, or jump the starter directly without the ignition/fuel system on. You dont want any fuel in there contaminating your oil, just about as much as you dont want spark firing off the engine.

I hope it all turns out ok!
 
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Yeah I'll get it all straightened out. I'm hoping the head is salvageable after some polishing but the cam is done for sure. Schneider Cams quoted $150 per bearing to repair it and Oregon Camshafts said "more than it's worth". A new cam is, what, $240? Or I can find something comparable on the board or at KG Trimning.

So right now the plan is to get a B cam from a friend, try to work the head out, and give it another go with plenty of oil this time. Worst case - I have to build the big-valve, ported head on the shelf since I finally have 8 new oversize valves from the group-buy and a set of head studs. It would be a good excuse to upgrade but I hadn't really planned on pulling the head this soon.

I'll be off work all next week so I should be able to get a lot done. I put in an order to Techna-Fit for some brake hoses. Just waiting on those and I can finish up brakes.
 
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