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240 Remote Filter and Oil Cooler Stuff

-10AN lines to/from the cooler on the LS3 on mine. Cold start - 65 psig; At 210F oil temp, 35 psig at 675 rpm idle and it goes up from there with rpm. It does take a breath longer for the pressure to register (gauge, light) on a cold start, but then I have the sender mounted in one of the cooler fittings.

Since you asked. ;)

Well, if *I* had an extra spare 4 cylinders to push that pump, then maybe I'd upgrade to -10 too :)
 
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That reminds me . . . I've been thinking about that damned Volvo Wahler thermostat sandwich. I had thought for years that the thing must have been stuck open because it would take forever to get the oil up to above 160. 20 minutes of driving. So some time back I installed an inline thermostat (below pic) near the oil cooler. It made a big improvement.

So now I'm thinking that Volvo Wahler thermostat function was working, but maybe getting super-heated by the turbo before the oil could get hot. Maybe that's just a bad place for a thermostat.

I'll be posting pics as I go with this. I ordered some different fittings for the oil cooler, so it's going slow.
Dave


It takes about 10 minutes of freeway driving for the oil temp to come up on both my ES and the 245 Turbo, so you may be in search of a problem that doesn't exist.
 
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It takes about 10 minutes of freeway driving for the oil temp to come up on both my ES and the 245 Turbo, so you may be in search of a problem that doesn't exist.
:e-shrug:

or maybe it did exist (in my car AND your cars) and this solved it for me:
So some time back I installed an inline thermostat (below pic) near the oil cooler. It made a big improvement.
 
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I ordered some different 18mm x 1.5 Male to -8 AN Male fittings for the RX7 oil cooler. First ones were Aeroquip FBM2244. New ones are Russell 670561. The Russell fitting has a larger hex shoulder and offers more support of the sealing washer.

Edit: hard to see a difference in the pics, but the Aeroquip hex is 0.815 inch and the Russell is 0.875 inch.
Dave
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One step forward, one step back.
Looking through my parts I had this short filter nipple. It's 1 inch long, which is not long enough. It's long enough to engage the threads on the new spin-on, but I can only get about 1/2 turn. That dish and the threads beginning so deep in the block means a longer nipple is needed.

I've ordered one that's 1.25 inches long. Might work. I'd like one longer than that, but I can't find one longer than 1.25 inch. Doesn't seem to exist.

-8 AN is 3/4-16, so in theory I could use a -8 male to male coupler, but that just seems wrong.

Does anyone know how long an original Volvo B21/B23 non-turbo nipple is?

If desperation sets in, I guess I can order this 3 inch long VW nipple for $25 and cut it down:-(
http://www.wasteoilheater.us/index.php?app=ecom&ns=prodshow&ref=COOLER_HEATER_NIPPLE
Or this one for $20: https://www.driftmotion.com/JZ-Block-Oil-Adapter-Pipe-3-4-16-p/dm3279.htm
Dave
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One step forward, one step back.
Looking through my parts I had this short filter nipple. It's 1 inch long, which is not long enough. It's long enough to engage the threads on the new spin-on, but I can only get about 1/2 turn. That dish and the threads beginning so deep in the block means a longer nipple is needed.

I've ordered one that's 1.25 inches long. Might work. I'd like one longer than that, but I can't find one longer than 1.25 inch. Doesn't seem to exist.

-8 AN is 3/4-16, so in theory I could use a -8 male to male coupler, but that just seems wrong.

Does anyone know how long an original Volvo B21/B23 non-turbo nipple is?

If desperation sets in, I guess I can order this 3 inch long VW nipple for $25 and cut it down:-(

.

I used a -8 JIC bulkhead, and then cut it down a bit. It was $3 at the local hydraulic shop, and it comes with a hex for easy installation and removal :)

2700-2T.jpg
 
I used a -8 JIC bulkhead, and then cut it down a bit. It was $3 at the local hydraulic shop, and it comes with a hex for easy installation and removal :)

2700-2T.jpg


Thank you. Sounds like a good solution. Ordering one right now from Grainger: EATON AEROQUIP 2041-8-8S Male JIC to Male JIC Bulkhead Hydraulic Hose Adapter 3/4-16.
Dave
 
I can send you one for the cost of shipping. I just pulled one out of a B18 that had a hole in the side of the block. It came out of this car.

sema_thule_volvo_sema_2018.ashx
 
I can send you one for the cost of shipping. I just pulled one out of a B18 that had a hole in the side of the block. It came out of this car.

Let wait until I see what the one I ordered looks like in there. I don't want to take it unless I'll use it for sure.
Thanks, Dave
 
I have the same derale adapter (though the npt version) with the 1.25" nipple. I would call it adequate enough thread engagement.

On the derale adapter, did you put any gasket type stuff between the nipple nut and housing?
 
I have the same derale adapter (though the npt version) with the 1.25" nipple. I would call it adequate enough thread engagement.

On the derale adapter, did you put any gasket type stuff between the nipple nut and housing?

Thanks.

No, I have not used any sealant in this housing.
Dave
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I thought I would add this here for those using the stock Volvo turbo (Setrab) oil cooler instead of the RX7 oil cooler.

Thank you to hiperfauto for this info.

The male ports on the stock Volvo oil cooler shown below are 1/2 BSP Male.
If you'll be using -8 AN hose, you would need two adapters with the following thread: 1/2 BSP Female to -8 AN Male.
Available here and probably other places: https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=3252&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI2-Wz1bKg4gIVSrzACh2D_AP0EAMYASAAEgLTU_D_BwE
Dave
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240setrabcooler2.jpg

1-2BSPfemaleto-8ANmale.JPG
 
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I have the same derale adapter (though the npt version) with the 1.25" nipple. I would call it adequate enough thread engagement.

The 1.25 inch nipple arrived today and I just tried it. I got 5 turns before is was tight. I think that works just fine.
Dave
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Oetiker clamps on AN -8.
This size: 0.75 inch.
Oetiker clamps (AKA: Pinch Clamps) are not required on Aeroquip Socketless (push-on) type hose ends, however many experienced people will tell you it's a very good option. Check YouTube for installation and removal techniques.
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And because I have a hard time leaving well-enough alone, and because I have had these types of fittings vibrate loose when connected directly to this el-vibro-B21FT . . . TWICE . . .
I added some heat-shrink to give me peace of mind the next time I take a 4k mile round trip to a Volvo meet.
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Make sure you use something to isolate the hoses if there is a chance of rubbing anywhere. Vibration and rubbing can easily rub a hole in a hose over time. That's some rubber I had in my toolbox.
Dave
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On the RX7 oil cooler, I found since I had it tucked up very close to sheet metal above it, I didn't have room for a normal AN -8 fitting coming straight up out of the top. Unless of course I wanted to butcher the sheet metal.

So I added An 18 mm banjo fitting with 3/8 inch NPT threads that I found in my parts tub. It uses the bonded sealing washers mentioned previously.

Then I added a -8 AN Male to 3/8 inch NPT adapter and then the -8 90 degree hose end.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aer-fbm5007
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aer-fbl1533
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