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Power window failure in '93 245, and noise in left wheel column.

rubercoober

Member
Joined
Jan 6, 2016
Location
Brooklyn, NY
Hey guys,

My power windows in my 1993 245 have been stuck for 8 months or so, but they worked perfectly prior to that. I had noticed right before they quit working that occasionally they would cut out, but slamming the driver's door once or twice would cause them to work again. But, eventually I noticed it getting worse and decided to leave them in the upright position, slightly cracked, just in case they quit working altogether. Surely, they did. This has been pretty rough for me because Atlanta summers are brutal, but luckily the winter isn't too harsh and when it is, the trusty blast furnace that is a 240's heater works great.

We've had some mild days lately, and with spring coming I need to get to the bottom of this, especially since my A/C doesn't work (who's does, anyway?).

The one time this happened before (without the slamming of the door), spraying out the contacts on the master switch with compressed air got it working again. No dice there, this time.

I've taken the door panel off and it's hard to tell where the problem lies, especially since everything is covered in electrical tape :grrr:

I'm honestly not even sure where to begin, any ideas? I've read some posts about maybe the wiring that passes out the door through the accordion guard breaking, or that a relay could go bad? I haven't found too much else on the forums that sounds similar to my situation.

My assumption is that it has to be related to some wiring that is attached to the master switch, because all the other switches worked prior to this, but now none work.


The other thing I've noticed is a bit of a slight clunking noise in my driver's side wheel well/column when I turn left or occasionally when I hit the brakes when coming to a stop. It sounds almost like metal on metal. My previous experience with something like this was a bad CV boot on a mk3 VW GTI that was making a way worse noise, but replacing that fixed the issue. This almost sounds like a much quieter version of that noise.

It's not affecting the way the car drives, at least not at the moment, but it's a noise that has me sort of worried about trying to be proactive. I'm getting ready to take a little roadtrip to Asheville next Sunday and want to make sure it'll make it there and back without any issues, it's a 3.5 hour drive each way.

Is this something I should worry about replacing immediately? And if so, what do you think it is, and how difficult would that job be?

Thanks guys!
 
The relay should be in the center console. That's pretty easy to check--a few fasteners and it is clipped above the heater controls towards the passengers side. Check and clean fuses 10 and 12 if corroded. Also, clean the contacts for the relays and check for melted relay connections as well.

My center console is off now, due to a failed headlight relay, so I can take a picture of it for you if you'd like.

There is a diagram here of the relay locations: http://www.vlvworld.com/indexframe.html?VolvoRepairManual/200_0_3.htm

Switches have been known to fail and they are easy to replace as well. https://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/7184/Window-Switch-Front-1347045/

As far as the grinding noise goes, could your bearings need to be regreased? Cotter pin and castle nut removal is a pretty easy thing to inspect without taking the tire off.
 
I wish there was an easier way besides just tearing into both and seeing what is going on. Paying someone maybe?
Yeah, gonna take it in soon just to get it over with. Gonna try some stuff first though.
The relay should be in the center console. That's pretty easy to check--a few fasteners and it is clipped above the heater controls towards the passengers side. Check and clean fuses 10 and 12 if corroded. Also, clean the contacts for the relays and check for melted relay connections as well.

My center console is off now, due to a failed headlight relay, so I can take a picture of it for you if you'd like.

There is a diagram here of the relay locations: http://www.vlvworld.com/indexframe.html?VolvoRepairManual/200_0_3.htm

Switches have been known to fail and they are easy to replace as well. https://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/7184/Window-Switch-Front-1347045/

As far as the grinding noise goes, could your bearings need to be regreased? Cotter pin and castle nut removal is a pretty easy thing to inspect without taking the tire off.

It is the 4th relay on the right. Mine was kind of hanging down closer to the ac relay, tucked down near the ac relay.

[url=https://postimg.org/image/s8f27d5q7/][/URL]

Here's the schematic for the power windows and relay

[url=https://postimg.org/image/toqkp5le7/][/URL]

I'll have to check that stuff out, thanks for the advice. Wiring has always been my worst nightmare when it comes to car issues, so I've been putting this off for a while. I'll try the switch and relay - if those don't fix it it's going to the shop.

I'll take a look at those bearings too, just in case it's that. Thanks!
 
No! What you need to do is get a $5 test light, clip one end to a GOOD ground and then use the wiring diagram and see where the voltage/current is going missing. Start with the easy access stuff like the master window switch. Pop it out and see if there is power to the (r) red wire. If no, then you access the relay and do diag there. Oh yeah, that is with key ON.
 
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SKU258454a.jpg


Ah, that's the tool I have seen in my toolbox. Makes sense and will now use it lol
 
I recently bought a test light at a hardware store "cheap tools bin" for $0.99. It's in the back of my car. I last used it on the side of the road to diag failed cooling fans in a 2005 Honda CRV while drinking beer. Verified power and signal at the relay, check, then used the test light between the two wires going to the fan while the circuit was energized with a jumper wire, light powered up, it was bad fans! Easy **** if you know how a relay/circuit works.

See wiring diagram above.
 
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How NOT to use a test light:

Here is my former coworker attempting to use a test light on a C63 AMG with one end clipped to a loose battery positive terminal, and the negative of the battery hooked to NOTHING! I got his permission to take a picture of him failing to realize that it wasn't gonna work out very well!


hskw85.jpg
 
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