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Old 05-22-2018, 06:57 PM   #76
ZVOLV
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Without pressure guages.....guesswork.

I just did a r134 charge on my 1990 240 and I blasted 2lbs into my system. I went by 85% of the weight posted on my r12 sticker.
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Old 05-22-2018, 07:27 PM   #77
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I’m gonna add a bit more later this week.

I bought an expansion valve but didn’t replace it because I had no idea where it was located, and I didn’t want to open the system in too many places since I had a limited amount of orings on hand.
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Old 05-22-2018, 07:55 PM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PromiseRing View Post
Iím gonna add a bit more later this week.

I bought an expansion valve but didnít replace it because I had no idea where it was located, and I didnít want to open the system in too many places since I had a limited amount of orings on hand.
Its in behind the passenger footwell, below the glove box.
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#mclovethesenuts

-My car: White 1991 244, 308k miles. B230F LH2.4, AW70, R134a retro. Thrush glasspack, anthracite refinished Coronas
-Wife's car: White 1990 244DL, T cam, 190k miles.B230F LH2.4, AW70 w/aux cooler, Duracool AC w/condenser fan, purple refinished Virgos, tow hitch, ipd wagon overload springs.
-PSM 2002 Subaru WRX wagon: 120k miles, Perrin TBE, Perrin turbo inlet, intake, and Y-pipe, GrimmSpeed cross pipe.
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Old 05-22-2018, 09:38 PM   #79
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Its in behind the passenger footwell, below the glove box.
Wait, I bought an orifice tube, not an expansion valve. I really donít know **** about ac systems (obviously).
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Old 05-22-2018, 10:18 PM   #80
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The R12 systems in these cars utilized the expa soon valve design as it was more effective at metering the refrigerant.
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Old 05-22-2018, 11:17 PM   #81
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When my system was low on 134 it constantly cycled the compressor. It only actually ran it for a second. Then it would shut off and immediately start up again. I checked the pressure on the low side and it was perfect but no cooling. Only has a low side port on 93 240. So I took it to the shop. They pulled out the 134 that was in there and weighed it and it was only half the amount it was supposed to have. Filled it for me and it's been great since then. They said they couldn't find a leak.
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Old 05-23-2018, 12:45 AM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KeizerBrickGuy View Post
Its in behind the passenger footwell, below the glove box.
Quote:
Originally Posted by PromiseRing View Post
Wait, I bought an orifice tube, not an expansion valve. I really don’t know **** about ac systems (obviously).
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Originally Posted by KeizerBrickGuy View Post
The R12 systems in these cars utilized the expa soon valve design as it was more effective at metering the refrigerant.
First line of first post: "1990 740 LH2.4"

Unless I, and all the parts stores, are wrong...
740s didn't get expansion valves.
240s did.
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Old 05-23-2018, 10:55 AM   #83
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Yeah low on refrigerant can cause too much cycling of the compressor. Always on....not quite sure what the answer is from over here. I use a machine that precisely weighs the Freon. I have slightly overcharged before (by .2 or .3lb) and high side pressures shot thru the roof really quickly and cut the compressor. Over and over again.

740 has an orifice. It's in the tube that runs along the passenger frame rail.

240 has a TXV.
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Old 05-23-2018, 11:30 AM   #84
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Didn’t see anything on the frame rail, I looked. I saw the google pic too that shows where it *should* be, but isn’t.
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Old 05-23-2018, 11:36 AM   #85
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I forget exactly where it is. Actually, I've never done one. Ha.
I recall a 740 owner that found a previous owner had installed two orifice tubes!

Unplug your compressor and see if it still is stuck on mechanically. Too high or too low of a charge will cause it to cycle too fast.
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Old 05-23-2018, 12:07 PM   #86
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I forget exactly where it is. Actually, I've never done one. Ha.
I recall a 740 owner that found a previous owner had installed two orifice tubes!

Unplug your compressor and see if it still is stuck on mechanically. Too high or too low of a charge will cause it to cycle too fast.
It only comes on when the snowflake setting is selected. It used to cycle on/off really fast before I evacuated the system and recharged. I was low then I would assume. Even when I manually jumped the compressor, condenser would stay cool and ac wouldnít get hot. But Iíve since fixed that.
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Old 05-26-2018, 02:03 AM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZVOLV View Post
740 has an orifice. It's in the tube that runs along the passenger frame rail.
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Originally Posted by PromiseRing View Post
Didnít see anything on the frame rail, I looked. I saw the google pic too that shows where it *should* be, but isnít.
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Originally Posted by ZVOLV View Post
I forget exactly where it is. Actually, I've never done one.
According to page 7 and later...
https://people.ohio.edu/ridgely/Volv...20retrofit.pdf

On model years 1991 and earlier (780 -1990) the orifice is located in the receiver inlet at the firewall.

On model year 1992 and later (780 1991-) the orifice is sited in the High-Pressure pipe at the pipe joint on the side member
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Old 05-26-2018, 11:29 AM   #88
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Sweet. Sucks that I already vacuumed and charged the system but didn’t replace that tube. Could contaminates in that tube be causing the poor quality at idle or is it likely a charge issue?
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Old 05-26-2018, 11:56 AM   #89
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When a compressor fails the particles end up stuck in the orifice tube. Sure it can cause poor cooling when it's clogged.

Without guages and a known exact charge there is no way to check what's going on.

With guages, if the high side pressure isblow and then you rev it up and it goes to normal it's probably a worn compressor.
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Old 05-26-2018, 12:59 PM   #90
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Originally Posted by ZVOLV View Post
When a compressor fails the particles end up stuck in the orifice tube. Sure it can cause poor cooling when it's clogged.

Without guages and a known exact charge there is no way to check what's going on.

With guages, if the high side pressure isblow and then you rev it up and it goes to normal it's probably a worn compressor.
No high side fitting on these cars.. itís a ****ing guessing game I guess. I vacuumed the system for like 15 minutes so surely I got almost all of the old r134 out, then installed exactly 12oz of ES12A.

I can get a low side reading sooner or later
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Old 05-26-2018, 01:24 PM   #91
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I've seen where shops cut the high pressure hose and add a coupler that has a test port in it. If you really had to read high side pressure it is a choice to make. I guess the other approach is to add a fitting at one of the connections like how that oil cooler was added in the oil cooler for police model 240 thread. They inserted a fitting right where the automatic trans oil lines connect at the radiator.
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Old 05-30-2018, 10:41 AM   #92
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Ah I must have messed something up when installing the receiver drier. Her ac stopped working and there was some green slimy crap under the receiver drier fitting (big one). So aside from the green orings on the small stuff, anyone know which seals are supposed to go on the 2 massive fittings on the receiver drier? Are they the green orings or the thicker black seals?
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Old 06-01-2018, 12:34 PM   #93
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bump. Would love to get this going again.

So theres 2 large fittings on the receiver drier. Do they get your typical green oring only, or do they get a green o ring + another larger black seal? I cannot remember when I removed it. Worst case, I'll pull apart a JY car and take a look, or try to find a schematic.
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Old 06-01-2018, 12:44 PM   #94
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Green is 134.
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Old 06-01-2018, 01:04 PM   #95
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Green is 134.
Why does that matter? R134 with r12 orings can be an issue but I think any seals are fine with es12a. I just remember seeing a larger black seal where the lines come into the receiver drier but I could be wrong.
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Old 06-01-2018, 03:08 PM   #96
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Why does that matter? R134 with r12 orings can be an issue but I think any seals are fine with es12a. I just remember seeing a larger black seal where the lines come into the receiver drier but I could be wrong.
It doesn't matter. The green seals are fine with R-12 or ES12. The original Volvo seals in an R-12 system were blue. Not that it matters. It just means if you encountered a different color, the seal has been replaced.
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Old 06-01-2018, 04:09 PM   #97
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It doesn't matter. The green seals are fine with R-12 or ES12. The original Volvo seals in an R-12 system were blue. Not that it matters. It just means if you encountered a different color, the seal has been replaced.
Thanks, I figured just as much. Do you know if thereís any seals aside from green (or blue if OE) that go into the large inlet and outlet of the drier? Or just the green/blue ones.
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Old 06-01-2018, 06:05 PM   #98
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Volvo has R-134 o-rings that are yellow. They are about 20X the price of o-rings you can get elsewhere.
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Old 06-01-2018, 06:13 PM   #99
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Volvo has R-134 o-rings that are yellow. They are about 20X the price of o-rings you can get elsewhere.
.........but what about the seals in the inlet and outlet of the receiver drier.......
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Old 06-01-2018, 06:51 PM   #100
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.........but what about the seals in the inlet and outlet of the receiver drier.......
That's what I just answered. You can get them from Volvo. They are ~ $5 each. The seals that come in those generic o-ring kits are not the right size for those two connections..
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