My 1992 Volvo 240 wagon starts but wont stay running

[Jonulna]

My name is Jonathan and my 1992 Volvo 240 and I need advice. (automatic transmission / lh2.4)
I just took my car into my mechanic and he said he would drive it anywhere. A week later she is broken down but home. The wagon starts ( sometimes with the assistance of giving her some gas) and then I'll lose acceleration while driving and she dies with a stutter. Now the car fires up but does when put into drive. I told my mechanic I thought one of my fuel pumps was going out because it seems if the car has less than half a tank it runs rough and now not at all but she died with 3/4 tank filled.. I will admit, I think I heard a loud knock the day this happened ( which I think came from the rear of the car but am uncertain).
Any advice you can send my way is greatly appreciated. I love my Volvos and its all I have ever owned. I wont abandon my Swedish brick.

Warm Regards

[dl242gt]

The symptom you describe is one that I've experienced being a bad fuel pressure regulator. There is a regulator at the front of the fuel rail with a vacuum hose on it. The basic test is to see if there is fuel in the vacuum hose. Take it off the regulator and see. If there is any fuel in the vacuum hose the regulator is bad. I have also had them fail without leaking fuel into the vacuum hose so a fuel pressure test will tell for sure. Have your mechanic check the fuel pressure. As this can also be a sign of a failing main fuel pump.

[EivlEvo]

Yeah... nothing to worry about. Just gotta dig into the basics. Do you have fuel? Do you have spark, and do you have air...

[nel621]

Make sure the acorrdion hose is on there tight, no air leaks. Also the small rubber hose at the top of the acorrdion hose.

[XxJenoxX]

If you suspected the in-tank pump already, try pulling it and having a look. It's not that uncommon for the filter sock to become clogged, and I've also seen people use hose that isn't rated for fuel. It can melt and get sucked up into the works.

[Jonulna]

Thanks everyone for the feedback. I’m amazed by the quickend responses and concerns. I will be doing a fuel pressure test and a self diagnostic test this evening as well as checking the suggested suspects you guys listed. Your help is greatly appreciated. I will post more as I carry out some investigating.

Warm regards

[Jonulna]

I ran a diagnostics test on my Volvo and here is what my results are.

Mode #1: code 2,3,2 Failed (Fuel trim (lambda control) too lean or too rich at idle)
Mode #2: 3,3,2 passed ( idle circuit is good/ throttle position sensor functions properly)
1,1,4 passed ( micro-switch is working properly)
Mode #3: first test 2,1,4 failed ( Faulty RPM sensor, wiring or incorrect installation)
Second test 3,3,4 passed ( throttle position switch is working properly )

There were no cracks in my accordion hose nor anywhere that I looked. All my lines seem to be in good shape, however I did notice that the tube pictured below is kind of loosely fitted. I went to do a fuel pressure test and couldnÂ’t find a place to hook up the kit ( no Schrader valve). My mechanic said on the phone that thereÂ’s a bypass fuel line that should get cold and if it does my regulator is fine. Still diagnosing but grabed a regulator at the junk yard while I was there. There was no fuel in the vaccum line coming from the regulator but did smell like gas.
Still havenÂ’t checked or messed with the main fuel pump, I will be doing so today.
She starts up every time and sounds good but the engine seems to have a shake related to the acceleration.

Warm regards,
Jonathan

[EivlEvo]

I would look to an O2 sensor with that info. But I hate that code.