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760 wheel shake over bumps

I

ian2000t

New member
Joined
May 24, 2011
Location
Halesowen
The front end of my car has always been very sloppy and worn tyres funny - and has been very vague when hitting bumps with the lefthand wheel.

I've done quite a bit of work recently and it's much better, but I am left with a definite steering wheel shake when you are cornering right slightly and the left hand wheel hits a bump/pothole (of which are are plenty here!!)

When it happens it actually sends the steering wheel into a fast shake which continues untill you straighten the wheel back up. I had an Audi 80 that used to do the same and that was cured by new wishbone bushes and new shocks (don't know which actually cured it).

The work I've done on the front of the 760:

- Chopped front springs (diesel springs lowered by 1 & 1/4 coils to match rear springs which are 40mm lower Spax)
- Bilstein TC shocks
- IPD Saucer Poly bushes (where the 2 suspension arms meet)
- H&R 25mm hubcentric spacers
- Volvo Titan's (17*7)
- 215/45/17 Hankook V12 tyres

I checked for play in bottom balljoint, track rod end, and the 2 bushes where the suspension arms attach to the chassis. Those bushes don't look the best but I couldn't feel any play. Also the top mounts have play, but then every 7/9 series car I've owned have been the same.

Any ideas what it is most likely to be?
 
I checked for play in bottom balljoint, track rod end, and the 2 bushes where the suspension arms attach to the chassis
Click to expand...

How did you determine the ball joints? And yie rod ends? Hear loud clunk sound when parking the car?

Does your 700 series have the sealed frt wheel brgs? (not tapered roller brgs like 240)

If so, might be time. It's not pretty when as sealed wheel brg goes. (Ask me how I know).
 
I disconnected both the track rod end and the bottom ball joint when I took the strut off and I couldn't feel any play in them. My last 740 had a balljoint with about 2mm of play - strangely although it clunked it never caused wobble like this.

Should I be able to feel play or hear rumbling if its the wheel bearings?
 
Replace ALL the wear items. It's cheap, it's old, and wasting your time fault tracing crap in the front end will eventually consume all your free time.
 
It's cheap IF you use cheap aftermarket parts. Don't they just wear out really quickly though?
I've learnt very quickly with my Mini that if its not broken don't fix it because.replacement parts are just so rubbish they'll wear out before the old one would have.

I don't want to throw loads of time and money replacing all the bushes, ball joints etc to then find it made no difference and it was actually the steering rack itself.
 
They wear very similar rates. Better play safe. Dunno how much they run over where you are, but it can be done here for about $400 in proper parts.
 
harribert said:
Replace ALL the wear items. It's cheap, it's old, and wasting your time fault tracing crap in the front end will eventually consume all your free time.
Click to expand...


Question: How many miles on this 700 since the last time susp/steering components were replaced? 100,000/200,00/300,000/Not since OEM new?

Have the control arm big bushings been replaced? Wheel balanced? Checked wheel brgs?

FWIW, IME, I've found it best, and cheaper in the long run, to rebuild entire frt susp all at one time.

If not, it's a never ending chase for replacing the next part that wears out. Figuring time, disassembly & costs., IMO replacing it all at once ,is cheaper in the long run.

And at least you'll know you have a save car.
 
Ok well don't have the cash at the moment to replace everything. If I can't see anything obvious I'll have to wait till next month and do the lot.

Car has 188000 on the clock (miles) and shocks looked original. Steering rack and some ball joints replaced about 5years ago according to history.

Which are the control arm big bushes? I've changed the saucer shaped ones where the 2 suspension arms join.
 
i had a wobble like this- it was one bad inner tie rod, outers were good, and other side inner was good
i just went ahead and replaced the inners outers and boots and got a fresh digital alignment
 
ian2000t said:
Should I be able to feel play or hear rumbling if its the wheel bearings?
Click to expand...
With the caliper removed, you should be able to feel the action of the wheel bearing very clearly, look for noise, runout, or rough rotation feel.

impolvo said:
i had a wobble like this- it was one bad inner tie rod, outers were good, and other side inner was good
i just went ahead and replaced the inners outers and boots and got a fresh digital alignment
Click to expand...
I agree on the inner end as a likely culprit.
If you count how many threads to remove the old one, and make the new the same, you should still be in spec, if you measure toe in before and after, that's all you need to know.
If the alignment was previously set with a failing part, it may now be off by that much.
I've also had the frame crack around the inner arm mount location. If it's the car in your sig, the redesigned subframe should be stronger.

smokeyfan1000 said:
FWIW, IME, I've found it best, and cheaper in the long run, to rebuild entire frt susp all at one time.

If not, it's a never ending chase for replacing the next part that wears out. Figuring time, disassembly & costs., IMO replacing it all at once ,is cheaper in the long run.

And at least you'll know you have a save car.
Click to expand...
Normally, I'd totally agree, but the 700 suspension is so easy service, I'm not sure.
I know I would not be satisfied till I found something needing fixed.
Knowing it's all new is nice for sure, and you will always feel the weakest link in the steering.

harribert said:
They wear very similar rates. Better play safe. Dunno how much they run over where you are, but it can be done here for about $400 in proper parts.
Click to expand...
100% do not agree,the ones that cost 1/4 of a real one are worthless crap, and if they wear out in a few months before failing catastrophically, you are lucky.
 
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Can you tell/determine, while driving, if the wheel/s is wobbling L to R or it it more a feeling of a Up and Down motion?

FWIW, if inner tie rod is worn, Volvo does not recommend replacing tie rods, as they claim tie rods should last life of the steering rack.

I replaced the inner tie rods, boots and tie rod ends on my 240 though.....................

The OEM Volvo tie rod ends & ball joints are better made, although TRW replacements do pretty good.

If the suspension bushings have never been replaced during the life of the car, they are definately suspect, as are the strut cartridges and upper strut mounts. Get OEM Volvo upper strut mounts. many of the aftermarket USMs are trash.

If you're replacing frt struts(shocks) be sure to replace the rear shocks too.
 
745 TurboGreasel said:
100% do not agree,the ones that cost 1/4 of a real one are worthless crap, and if they wear out in a few months before failing catastrophically, you are lucky.
Click to expand...

Yeah you will pay $1600 in parts from a dealer. Same part will cost you 1/4th if you care enough to peruse the interwebs a little, and I'm not talking Uro or Scantech garbage.

It's not hard to find good parts for cheap, dude.
 
Which are the control arm big bushes? I've changed the saucer shaped ones where the 2 suspension arms join.
Click to expand...

Remove the lower control arm & you'll see them. LCAa are mounted to chassis via bolts & rubber bushings. You may like to go with SuperPro Poly bushings, if upgrading susp performance is in the plan, such as IPD sways, lower chassis braces, F toS braces, S to S brace etc.
 
harribert said:
Yeah you will pay $1600 in parts from a dealer. Same part will cost you 1/4th if you care enough to peruse the interwebs a little, and I'm not talking Uro or Scantech garbage.

It's not hard to find good parts for cheap, dude.
Click to expand...
Yeah I know how to buy parts, and TRW/Moog for ~$400 is a lot more than scanech /autozone junk.
 
Right, I've just had a good look at the left hand suspension and a good waggle with pry bars.

Balljoint - no play

Track rod end - no play
Track rod inner - VERY small amount of play when waggling the wheel at 3 and 9 O' clock - I mean, just the very slightly movement only felt if you put your finger on the joint. Annoyingly this was only replaced 6 months ago (scantech though). But, the gator has recently broken letting water in which is probably the cause.

Sway bar link top bushes - no play
Sway bar link lower bushes - no play, but look old
Sway bar to chassis bushes - bit of play

Lower Track control arm bush (this one - http://www.partsforvolvosonline.com/popup_large_image.php?pID=3277 ) - bush seems a bit soft when I use a pry bar on it - is this normal though, or should they be stiffer than that? Vid - http://s103.photobucket.com/albums/m144/ian2000t/Volvo/?action=view&current=VIDEO1151.mp4

Inner Track control arm bush (this one - http://www.partsforvolvosonline.com/popup_large_image.php?pID=3280 ) - same as the other one above. Vid - http://s103.photobucket.com/albums/m144/ian2000t/Volvo/?action=view&current=VIDEO1150.mp4


So, if I was to replace the bushes on the lower and inner arms; and the inner Track Rod ... where should I be getting them from? Partsforvolvos rubber bushes are just Scantech rubbish I assume? Scandix only seem to do a full front kit in their "own brand" http://www.skandix.de/en/spare-part...-mounting/bushing/bushing-suspension/1023317/ - is this decent, or just the usual cheap aftermarket junk?

I would ideally like to go for Poly all round, but the bushes for the lower arms are $94 from IPD or ?81 from PFV (Superflex bushes). Bit more than I can afford at the moment, when they may not even be the problem!
 
Keep in mind, you're not able to place the load on the rubber bushings during inspection/testing, nor the load it as such, that they see while driving. if they've never been replaced, you can bet your butt, they need replacing. Do It!

Get either OEM Volvo bushings or go with SuperPro Poly, or the Group Buy poly here on TB. Superpro is what I used up front. easier to install too. Might as well replace the upper strut mounts too. OEM Volvo there too is best/longest life.
IINM on 700s ya have to press out/in the stock bushings in a press.. The SP Poly can be installed easily in a vise
 
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