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Post Pics of your Battery Relocation!!!!!!

The battery box with the strap is t sufficient for what I need. Worried about welding back there near the tank. Doesn't really seem to be a good spot to bolt through either
 
I made a little platform for the box. I had some plastic board stuff - 1X6 brown composite decking stuff. Cut a short piece of that, spent some time shaping it to fit the butt cheek bottom (tapered curved ends), then secured it in there with two bolts.

The braille battery (IMO) is a better solution, though. It's tiny, it's sealed, it can be mounted in any position (sideways, upside down). No reason to move it to the back with a heavy long battery cable, just tuck it anywhere under the hood.
 
JohnMc said:
The braille battery (IMO) is a better solution, though. It's tiny, it's sealed, it can be mounted in any position (sideways, upside down). No reason to move it to the back with a heavy long battery cable, just tuck it anywhere under the hood.
Click to expand...

Agreed, I saved weight, money and time by using a little Odyssey PC680 off to the side in the stock location. Plenty of room even with a way big intercooler, cheap. Been using it all year with no issues, even when the car sits for 2 weeks and I haven't had it on the tender in months. 34 degrees today and it fired right up. Plus everyone at car shows goes "what's that? the battery?! it's so tiny!"
 
Stiggy Pop said:
Agreed, I saved weight, money and time by using a little Odyssey PC680 off to the side in the stock location. Plenty of room even with a way big intercooler, cheap. Been using it all year with no issues, even when the car sits for 2 weeks and I haven't had it on the tender in months. 34 degrees today and it fired right up. Plus everyone at car shows goes "what's that? the battery?! it's so tiny!"
Click to expand...

Yes, this (except mine is about 10 inches below the stock location).
 
Stiggy Pop said:
Agreed, I saved weight, money and time by using a little Odyssey PC680 off to the side in the stock location. Plenty of room even with a way big intercooler, cheap. Been using it all year with no issues, even when the car sits for 2 weeks and I haven't had it on the tender in months. 34 degrees today and it fired right up. Plus everyone at car shows goes "what's that? the battery?! it's so tiny!"
Click to expand...

Looks like they sell for anywhere $150-200. That's not bad considering that a typical lead acid battery is $130 at this point, plus you've got to buy all that expensive cable...yeah, I like the Braille.
 
I once heard a rumor that Braile batteries are actually made by Deka and then rebadged? Any truth to this? We're a deka dealer at work, maybe I can get one at cost...hmm.
 


I vertically relocated my battery to make room for my relocated washerfluid resevoir :wiggle:

Now I have a big open space for an oversized air filter!
 
When I needed to replace the battery on my PV, I got a PC680. Little bit bigger, little bit heavier, a bit cheaper. I'd have probably done that on the wagon instead of the Braille if I'd done more research.
 
grnmachine02 said:
I once heard a rumor that Braile batteries are actually made by Deka and then rebadged? Any truth to this? We're a deka dealer at work, maybe I can get one at cost...hmm.
Click to expand...

I can't find them, but there's a running dialog of Braile battery's comments on Amazon where people are saying that.
 
I'm reading that the PC680 is 170cca. Is that enough for colder climates?

Oh, and this:

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/c_U7w-1uUdE" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
Ursan said:
I'm reading that the PC680 is 170cca. Is that enough for colder climates?
Click to expand...

Like I said I've never had a problem starting the car in sub-zero temps. Started this morning at 34 deg with no hesitation.

Only thing I keep in mind is that I can't sit there and crank for 5 minutes. So if you're going to sit there and hammer your starter because your fuel pump's dead and "why won't this damn thing just start" you're gonna run it down quick.
 
Trunk battery kit in my 70 Chevelle Malibu:

DSCN6580_1.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]

NHRA vented battery box. Note the ground path using the chassis body (some work required up front ;-) )

Trunk mounted FORD starter solenoid. Using this method, the 1/0 starter POSITIVE cable is de-energized until you crank the engine....much safer than keeping it always hot. For details on this setup, see MADELECTRICAL.com. His kits were designed for old Musclecars...but will work fine on our Bricks also. Mark is his name....be ready to listen for a LONG TIME if you give him a call..... he is old school, a one man company and only sells via phone. Highly recommended!

DSCN6215.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]
 
DET17 said:
Trunk battery kit in my 70 Chevelle Malibu:

DSCN6580_1.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]

NHRA vented battery box. Note the ground path using the chassis body (some work required up front ;-) )

Trunk mounted FORD starter solenoid. Using this method, the 1/0 starter POSITIVE cable is de-energized until you crank the engine....much safer than keeping it always hot. For details on this setup, see MADELECTRICAL.com. His kits were designed for old Musclecars...but will work fine on our Bricks also. Mark is his name....be ready to listen for a LONG TIME if you give him a call..... he is old school, a one man company and only sells via phone. Highly recommended!

DSCN6215.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]
Click to expand...

I like this setup. May look into it for the winter. I just don't trust how thin the Volvo trunk is and I don't see a good spot with access to bolt through.
 
I don't drive mine in the winter, so CCA isn't a big concern, but I've never had much of an issue in nice weather. Always seems to act normally, as if it had a bit 35 lb battery hanging out somewhere.

When I had mine in the passenger butt cheek, I ran a ground strap from the battery to one of the bumper mount bolts right there. Then I added a heavy ground strap up front from the body to the engine - in stock configuration the ground cable up front goes straight to the engine block and then lighter weight grounds go from that to the body. You need a pathway for cranking current that has big cables.
 
aggrorider1 said:
I like this setup. May look into it for the winter. I just don't trust how thin the Volvo trunk is and I don't see a good spot with access to bolt through.
Click to expand...

I welded a 3/8"-16x1" HCS (hex head acid dipped to remove plating) directly to the floor pan, exactly above where the double thickness of sheetmetal was spot welded together. Volvo must have a similar frame rail area as a target for grounds in the trunk.....I haven't studied my 242 to find it.

DSCN6576.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]
 
JohnMc said:
You need a pathway for cranking current that has big cables.
Click to expand...

Something like this, perhaps? ;-) I can provide the vendor to purchase these for those interested. I used a pair of #1 AWG braided copper flex straps.

DSCN6325.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]
 
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