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1971 142S "I'll keep this one"

stick70 said:
Oh they have a lazy 5th all right. Close 1-4 and then it feels like you dropped off a cliff to 5.
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I don't think that's going to be the case with a .79 fifth ratio.

I'm running a 3.91 rear, .80 fifth (t5z with a 'sebring' gear set), 24" rear tire and gear spacing 1-5 is perfect for staying on power at all times. 3k rpm highway cruise is a touch under 70mph.
 
Tfrasca said:
What T5 has a .79 5th? My T5z has a .63 5th, and it's only good for highway cruising. Useless below ~3000 rpm, even with the turbo engine. I plan on pulling it out and putting a .80 5th in it, as well.
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4cyl NA WC (#209 IIRC)
 
Stiggy Pop said:
I don't think that's going to be the case with a .79 fifth ratio.

I'm running a 3.91 rear, .80 fifth (t5z with a 'sebring' gear set), 24" rear tire and gear spacing 1-5 is perfect for staying on power at all times. 3k rpm highway cruise is a touch under 70mph.
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Ahhh yeah I missed his gear #, I've got the standard set in mine. I've thought about that sebring set for my 242.
 
stick70 said:
Ahhh yeah I missed his gear #, I've got the standard set in mine. I've thought about that sebring set for my 242.
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I can't rant and rave enough about the gear ratios/spacing in my car relative to the power curves, I really don't think it could be any better. We also probably have fairly similar roads (I'm in the sticks up here, roads are tight and twisty) and 5th is great for cruising the 45mph posted roads that actually get driven between 55-75.

BUT I have no reason to be in the car on the highway besides the 1 exit I jump on the way to work. It's doable but any extended highway cruising gets tiresome pretty quickly (also a factor of how the car is set up). Just a lot of buzzing and NVH that is much less invasive at ~2200rpm.
 
Stiggy Pop said:
I can't rant and rave enough about the gear ratios/spacing in my car relative to the power curves, I really don't think it could be any better. We also probably have fairly similar roads (I'm in the sticks up here, roads are tight and twisty) and 5th is great for cruising the 45mph posted roads that actually get driven between 55-75.

BUT I have no reason to be in the car on the highway besides the 1 exit I jump on the way to work. It's doable but any extended highway cruising gets tiresome pretty quickly (also a factor of how the car is set up). Just a lot of buzzing and NVH that is much less invasive at ~2200rpm.
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This is what I'm after too. The highway cruising with the .63 5th and my 4.30 gears is really nice, but there's no acceleration available for passing, and the 4-5 jump is not doable for the roads you're talking about. I do these vintage rallies that seek out all the twisty roads in CA. But it's often a bit of a road trip to get there. I still think I'm going to put a .80 5th in there and just bring ear plugs for the highway.
 
The car sorta runs and drives.
Plugs are horribly fouled and the carbs still need a ton of tuning.
I need to adjust the clutch more as the trans wants to grind with the pedal on the floor when I go to put it in gear.
 
Tfrasca said:
Is there a bunch of slack in the cable? If not, you may need to space the clutch fork pivot ball out.
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I took all the slack out and it got far better. I'm going to tighten it a hair more and then feel it out once I get it to stop running like dog ****.
 
If you're running SU's, look up Dylan's 544 tuning vids. If you follow them to a T, you'll be running well. Do you have a timing light ? Best $75 I ever spent for an older engine.

If you're on a single Weber, get rid of it. Those carbs are awful.
 
vwbusman66 said:
I need to adjust the clutch more as the trans wants to grind with the pedal on the floor when I go to put it in gear.
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Adjust the cable as already mentioned, but also be aware that early versions of 140 clutch forks could fatigue and bend resulting in not full disengagement. Kind of like what you're describing.

I know the fork was redesigned by 1972 to make it stronger. Not sure about '71.
 
alschnertz said:
Adjust the cable as already mentioned, but also be aware that early versions of 140 clutch forks could fatigue and bend resulting in not full disengagement. Kind of like what you're describing.

I know the fork was redesigned by 1972 to make it stronger. Not sure about '71.
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I think he's running a Mustang trans.
 
I want to light my goddamn hair on fire.

I am fighting a severe fuel starvation issue.

The t5 is the sht though. Very nice to get on Rt1 and sping 2800 at 70 mph. A little whiny in 1-3 but supposedly that's normal.
 
Someone mentioned in your other thread to check the in-tank filter.
Can't recommend this enough.
If it is the in-tank filter, pull it and put in a second clear in-line filter until you can get an in-tank replacement.
Then connect a fuel pressure gauge. I forget what it calls for, but it's pretty low.
Good luck.
 
Also make sure you have the correct type of gas cap? I'm not sure what a 1971 would have. My PV needed a vented cap because it had no other tank evap control/venting. It would run fine until you got onto the highway and it started really pulling gas out of the tank - it would pull a partial vacuum that would eventually overpower the mechanical pump. Then I'd spend 4 - 5 minutes trying to figure out why it died on the side of the highway, while the vacuum slowly leaked down, then it would start and run fine again... *argh* One time I just happened to pull the cap off and noticed a big WHOOSh of air going into the tank.
 
vwbusman66 said:
I want to light my goddamn hair on fire.

I am fighting a severe fuel starvation issue.

The t5 is the sht though. Very nice to get on Rt1 and sping 2800 at 70 mph. A little whiny in 1-3 but supposedly that's normal.
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They aren't quiet, I wouldn't worry about it unless it gets alarming. Mine doesn't really have a whine, but both of my t5s sound like gravel grinders in 5th.
 
stick70 said:
They aren't quiet, I wouldn't worry about it unless it gets alarming. Mine doesn't really have a whine, but both of my t5s sound like gravel grinders in 5th.
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I also only have a single layer of dynamat and a poorly sealed trans tunnel. 5th is definitely a little whiny, but all the synchros are good and its quieter than a muncie m22. Its kinda cool to be able to hear the synchros doing their job as you downshift.
 
JohnMc said:
Also make sure you have the correct type of gas cap? I'm not sure what a 1971 would have. My PV needed a vented cap because it had no other tank evap control/venting. It would run fine until you got onto the highway and it started really pulling gas out of the tank - it would pull a partial vacuum that would eventually overpower the mechanical pump. Then I'd spend 4 - 5 minutes trying to figure out why it died on the side of the highway, while the vacuum slowly leaked down, then it would start and run fine again... *argh* One time I just happened to pull the cap off and noticed a big WHOOSh of air going into the tank.
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I'm pretty sure the 71 tank is vented via a small hose that runs off the side of the tank to an evap canister, therefore solid non-vented cap is ok I think.

sksmith said:
Someone mentioned in your other thread to check the in-tank filter.
Can't recommend this enough.
If it is the in-tank filter, pull it and put in a second clear in-line filter until you can get an in-tank replacement.
Then connect a fuel pressure gauge. I forget what it calls for, but it's pretty low.
Good luck.
Click to expand...

Would like the details on where this is located, I should check mine too
 
IansPlatinum said:
Would like the details on where this is located, I should check mine too
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If you look under your tank, you'll see two plugs. A large round pipe plug that takes a 1/2 square, and a small ~11mm plug. The strainer is hidden behind the large round pipe plug in the forward center of the tank.

Pic dump incoming.
 
Took the car to a small meet-up last night. Straight water heat soaks and boils really well!
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My favorite angle of the car.
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At the world's best gas station.
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And then, it had no power and severe fuel starvation, so AAA Premier came to the resuce.
Cp0jeQol.jpg

N4nhScwl.jpg


If you check out my fuel starvation thread in Maintenance, you'll see the diagnosis and repair. The car is running miles better, so shakedowns will commence again shortly.
 
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