Wiring, Ignition & Lights
With the fuel path in the engine bay cleaned out, it was back to the electrical system. One of the obvious red flags with the car was the small 25 amp fuse wrapped in aluminum foil. This was first addressed by bending the long tab and folding it over, allowing for normal-sized fuses to be utilized. Disconnecting the wires and taping them together, removed the fuse panel off the firewall and hit it with a metal brush to clean the connectors and fuse tabs. The ends of the fuses were cleaned to ensure removal any built-up oxidation as well. The fuse panel was reattached to the car and all of the wiring reconnected.
The new ignition switch arrived in meantime, work commenced removing the armored cable set up and rebuilding the ignition wiring. From my parts cache came a 1980s 240 Bosch coil & bracket and constructed a positive wire to go to the ignition switch which is normally protected by the armored cable. Going under the dash, the wires were transferred onto the back of the new switch. The positive coil wire was snaked through the firewall and secured to the ignition switch. Unscrewed the bolts holding the coil into the firewall and extracted the broken ignition assembly out. Connected the positive wire and the wires on the negative post to the coil and tachometer.
A charged battery was lifted into the engine bay and performed a preliminary check of the electricals began. Since this is a 4-position switch turned the key to the left, the accessory position to see what would occur. The red oil warning light flickered on as did the illumination light to the add-on tachometer. Checked the wire going to the oil pressure sender ensuring it was connected though the oil light still did not illuminate at all. Pulling the headlight switch the headlights illuminated though the dash lights stayed dark. Twisted the headlight switch back and forth to see if the dash light would come to life but that was not to be. Throwing the turn signal switch up, a "click - click - click" could be heard, and a faint flashing light could be seen from under the dash, but nothing illuminated from the dash indicator. That made me wonder how many of the other lights were not properly connected into the instrument cluster.
While under the dash working on the wiring I noticed the speedometer cable had been unhooked. Began the process to remove the instrument cluster, by loosening the nuts on the back side of the unit. Once those were off twisted the cluster to get it out of the dash. Using small screwdriver, removed the water temperature and gas gauges then unhooked the oil warning and illumination lights. With the cluster now out, tried rotating the speedometer input and found it completely stuck.