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MAF Sensors

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Jimmy E. James

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Aug 30, 2016
MAF Sensors - 1994 940T Wagon - B230FT

Shopping one now
Prices are crazy as you probably already know and most are remans
Has anyone tried these Delphis? Good results?
I realize it's a hot film versus hot wire type - any issues?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L4KUMQC/ref=olp_product_details?_encoding=UTF8&me=

Also, is the FCP from Injection Labs that FCP sells any good?

I have to buy, can't send my old one in to anyone for rebuild as the car needs to keep moving - I'm chasing down and intermittent code 231 with no definite symptoms at this time except for a little less than perfect idle quality - fuel pumps good (both less than a year old) and relays working as they should - replaced with pumps

O2 IS working but is hyper as hell

Car will be getting a fresh O2 and pressure reg as well (age and mileage - 380,000 plus on original parts!)

Please let me know if you've used and had good (or bad) luck with the Delphi

A Bosch reman costs me $270 wholesale - ain't gonna happen

Thanks
 
Jimmy E. James said:
Shopping one now
Prices are crazy as you probably already know and most are remans
Has anyone tried these Delphis? Good results?
I realize it's a hot film versus hot wire type - any issues?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L4KUMQC/ref=olp_product_details?_encoding=UTF8&me=

Also, is the FCP from Injection Labs that FCP sells any good?

I have to buy, can't send my old one in to anyone for rebuild as the car needs to keep moving - I'm chasing down and intermittent code 231 with no definite symptoms at this time except for a little less than perfect idle quality - fuel pumps good (both less than a year old) and relays working as they should - replaced with pumps

O2 IS working but is hyper as hell

Car will be getting a fresh O2 and pressure reg as well (age and mileage - 380,000 plus on original parts!)

Let me know if you've had good luck with the Delphi

Thanks
Click to expand...

I tried a couple reman units. All failed or ran weird. I ended up pulling 2 clean units at my junkyard during 1/2 price day, cleaned them, tested both on the car, put one on the shelf just in case. Bosch OEM ftw.
 
Jimmy E. James said:
Shopping one now
Prices are crazy as you probably already know and most are remans
Has anyone tried these Delphis? Good results?
I realize it's a hot film versus hot wire type - any issues?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L4KUMQC/ref=olp_product_details?_encoding=UTF8&me=

Also, is the FCP from Injection Labs that FCP sells any good?

I have to buy, can't send my old one in to anyone for rebuild as the car needs to keep moving - I'm chasing down and intermittent code 231 with no definite symptoms at this time except for a little less than perfect idle quality - fuel pumps good (both less than a year old) and relays working as they should - replaced with pumps

O2 IS working but is hyper as hell

Car will be getting a fresh O2 and pressure reg as well (age and mileage - 380,000 plus on original parts!)

Please let me know if you've used and had good (or bad) luck with the Delphi

A Bosch reman costs me $270 wholesale - ain't gonna happen

Thanks
Click to expand...

I had a Bosch Factory Reman unit on my car that eventually started to fail. Was ok when cold, but once warmed up had some drivability and restart issues . From the maintenance records I had from the PO, it was replaced in 2010 and it lasted 84000 km.

Found a good used one at a junkyard, 77000km on the odometer. I'm keeping that one as a known good spare and ordering a "new" one from FCP (Lifetime returns). Keep in mind that my 240 isn't a DD anymore, just Saturday errands and around town.
 
Appreciate the tips guys but I can't dick around with trying used parts on this vehicle - daily driver

I already have a used MAF on the car now that's working, just questionable as for accuracy (like I said 380,000 on it)

If anyone has tried the Delphis (new) please let me know

That, or the rebuilt from Injection Labs
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-mass-air-flow-sensor-240-740-760-780-940

I'm not unappreciative of what you're saying but this is a car I need to repair and be done with - the wife isn't going to be into dealing with trying the parts stash in the glove box on her way to work

If I was driving this brick it would be different

Looking for feed back on these parts/brands

Thanks
 
If you're running a K&N filter it could just have oil on it. Had that trouble once and ended up putting the K&N in the trash can, problem solved. Also on the wife's (now X) ride.
 
Bobbyz said:
If you're running a K&N filter it could just have oil on it. Had that trouble once and ended up putting the K&N in the trash can, problem solved. Also on the wife's (now X) ride.
Click to expand...

I really don't understand this post? (what it has to do with my question)

But since you took the time to write it; I've already diagnosed the cause for the code(s) and made the repair - 231 as I mentioned in my first post, and on any given drive cycle, 221 as well - pretty straightforward codes to track down (anything Lambda related is pretty straight forward actually)

Will still feel better with a fresh MAF on this one as it is the original and the mileage on this brick is seriously substantial (I KNOW it has to be getting tired after 24 years and almost 400,000 miles) - it can do duty as emergency backup

What I'm interested in is any feedback on the Delphi MAFs from anyone who has actually tried or is currently running one

Decided not to go with the Injection Labs

Thanks
 
In many cases the new parts are crap and used parts are a more reliable bet. I can understand wanting new, but given a choice between good used and **** new I'll go with used. AMM's don't really get "tired", they're primarily solid state devices and either work or they don't. Unless the platinum wire gets broken the problems are going to be in the ceramic hybrid circuit inside the housing.
 
James10952001 said:
In many cases the new parts are crap and used parts are a more reliable bet. I can understand wanting new, but given a choice between good used and **** new I'll go with used. AMM's don't really get "tired", they're primarily solid state devices and either work or they don't. Unless the platinum wire gets broken the problems are going to be in the ceramic hybrid circuit inside the housing.
Click to expand...

I understand, still not an answer to the question

ALL ELECTRONICS GET TIRED WITH TIME - ALL OF THEM

Doesn't matter whether it's a MAF sensor, a television set, a PC, a solid state tuner. an O2 sensor or a tube amp - the values of electronic parts (the passive guts) drift over time - especially anything operating in as hot an abusive environment as under the hood of a turbo brick

Some last better than others and I agree with you on that point - but after 24 years and 400,000 miles your odds increase towards an eventual failure

I understand all the pros and cons, and I know all about some of the aftermarket **** and clones coming in from overseas, I agree with you on that - just looking for OBJECTIVE real life experience/feedback on Delphi MAFs - not generalizations

You ever used a Delphi MAF or are you running one now?

Thanks
 
My recent run-in with a new Delphi fuel pump that left me dead on the road, on the test drive does NOT instill any level of confidence in the brand. There is also a WIDE variance of calibration for them to still be considered good. I have 3 used ones on the shelf for mine, all run normal for the most part but variances in mileage and performance vary widely between them.

If it were me, I would find a Bosch new or reman, spend the extra.
 
gsellstr said:
My recent run-in with a new Delphi fuel pump that left me dead on the road, on the test drive does NOT instill any level of confidence in the brand. There is also a WIDE variance of calibration for them to still be considered good. I have 3 used ones on the shelf for mine, all run normal for the most part but variances in mileage and performance vary widely between them.

If it were me, I would find a Bosch new or reman, spend the extra.
Click to expand...

Thanks

Like I said, mine's currently working well enough; it's the reliability concerns that are creeping in now (as well as a touch of a new one could conceivably offer up improved performance driveability wise), like the original control reg I changed out after only 400,000 - figured I'd gotten my money's worth out of that one ; - )

I was a professional mechanic for 35+ years, so sometimes it's hard to put the odds factor out of my mine with certain parts (the "could last another ten years or could go in the next ten minutes" at this point in the life cycle) In tank pumps and alternators are good examples (if I KNOW the history)

What was the application for the dud pump? On-line purchase or parts house?
 
gsellstr said:
I'm up in Sac.
Click to expand...

Sorry : - )

Gonna be a hot one today brother, stay cool

I'm trying to get out of this state as hard as I can - no bank roll's the problem

I'm thinking right this minute about just bugging out with the clothes on my back

Can't take much more of Jerry and his lunatic fringe, or the bull **** cost of living here

I've been here since '87 - turned wrenches and did "smog" and emission/driveability repairs until '08 (currently "retired")

You a native?
 
Almost a native, thankfully I can say I'm not...born in Nevada, been in the valley, between El Dorado Hills/Sac/Elk Grove since 83.

Hot for sure up here, slated for 105. Glad to head to the hills this weekend though, much nicer at 6800'. lol
 
Electronics do fail, but with the exception of electrolytic capacitors and vacuum tubes (including CRTs) they don't get "tired", and age is not a good indication of reliability. I have lots of vintage electronics all the way from 1930s radios to 80s computers that I keep in working order. Yes some components drift, especially the old carbon composition resistors but modern types are very stable and properly designed circuits are very resistant to drift, a modern-ish TV can last decades without needing anything adjusted. I've repaired a LOT of gear and cracked solder joints and bad electrolytic caps make up easily 90% of failures, though it's not uncommon for those to cascade and cause further damage. Failure analysis is a complex topic but most failures come down to a few root causes. Cracked connections due to thermal cycles, cracked connections due to mechanical flex/vibrations, moisture ingress and external abuse (short circuits, over-voltage, etc). In solid state components there is a phenomenon called electromigration that is about the only way semiconductors "wear out" with use but it is really only an issue with high speed, high complexity devices like CPUs used in computers. Many programmable memory devices will deteriorate over time and gradually lose the programming they contain but an AMM has none of those.

I suspect that the primary failure mode of Bosch AMM's is either moisture ingress in the ceramic hybrid circuits which have also been a problem in some of the ECUs or cracked connections from the hybrid to the external parts. Given my observations with various aftermarket parts I personally would trust a 30 year old genuine AMM with half a million miles on it that has not been abused over some made in China brand new aftermarket AMM of questionable build quality that very likely will not perform as well as the original even if it does last. "New" does not give me the peace of mind it used to, I've been burned too many times by brand new parts that turned out to be complete crap and failed long before they should have.
 
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